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Klutzuz you do that, and next time I'm at Smith Brothers just down the road ordering pushrods I'll tell them zero lash measurement won't work anymore . I know it's true because some guy on the internet told me.
You be sure to do that and mention I sent you ...
Kinda childish to mock one's handle, don't you think? Oh, that's right, you can't.
Trying to start an old engine with rusty cylinders and bent pushrods that won't turn over might make sense if you're really bored I guess. but since it's going to have to come out I'd spend my time at that task. I guess the OP will have to decide what his time is worth and make that decision.
I wasn't making fun of your name I just didn't care to go back and see the spelling.
Don't worry. You seem to be the type that is huKt oN fonIX - wurX 4 mee ...
This is a push-rod checker, everyone makes them. if this is a newfangled device to you I'm not sure what to say.
Oh! That's what one uses when determining rod length after arriving at correct valve-train geometry. I see now. Kinda silly to use it to arrive (hopefully) at proper valve lash, but then again that's just me.
Trying to start an old engine with rusty cylinders and bent pushrods that won't turn over might make sense if you're really bored I guess. but since it's going to have to come out I'd spend my time at that task. I guess the OP will have to decide what his time is worth and make that decision.
He posted he got it to turn over.
No one knows the internal condition of the engine. It may have been parked intact, maybe lost the trans. It is very simple to attempt to start an engine that has been sitting and diagnose once fired. I surely don't have the extra money to put it on a forensics table but you guys do. If it is going to be a performance engine I can see it, but not a driver.
The 1971 429 should be the standard or more common pushrod length....the 8.55 inch
The 1968 first year 429 used the .100 longer length design (the 8.65 length for the C8VE HEAD) as the lifters are different application also, so beware.
Originally Posted by KULTULZ
I read the MPC as showing 1971 429 STD as using C9VZ 6565-A which has a length of 8.67".
You just said a checker is useless to check length then you go and say a checker is what you use to measure length. the goal is to get a worn out rusty 429 with bent pushrods running not balance and blueprint it in frame. WTF ever.
I have a mother in law who could be your sister I think I've heard enough I'm out of here.
You just said a checker is useless to check length then you go and say a checker is what you use to measure length. the goal is to get a worn out rusty 429 with bent pushrods running not balance and blueprint it in frame. WTF ever.
I have a mother in law who could be your sister I think I've heard enough I'm out of here.
No, it seems what you suffer from is poor reading comprehension along with spelling difficulties.
This is a comparison between a pushrod from the engine and a melling MRP-274 8.55" pushrod.
Yeah, I think I'm going to go with the 8.67s I ordered from summit. They should be delivered today, I'll have the weekend to mess with it.
As said, engine now turns over fine after lubing and new battery cables. I think the ratty battery cables were the main culprit as to why it wouldn't turn over by the key, but I would not doubt if the cylinders used to have a rust ridge. After all, it sat for 30 years in a driveway. The engine may have been over revved due to losing the transmission, the atf doesn't look great. Only way to know for sure is to fire it and after letting it warm up a bit see if it will move. If not, since the trans may have to come out the engine will as well. Its a very clean car for being in the rust belt, only needs 1/4s. Floors, frame, doors, and front clip are 100% rust free.
This is a comparison between a pushrod from the engine and a melling MRP-274 8.55" pushrod.
Yeah, I think I'm going to go with the 8.67s I ordered from summit. They should be delivered today, I'll have the weekend to mess with it.
As said, engine now turns over fine after lubing and new battery cables. I think the ratty battery cables were the main culprit as to why it wouldn't turn over by the key, but I would not doubt if the cylinders used to have a rust ridge. After all, it sat for 30 years in a driveway. The engine may have been over revved due to losing the transmission, the atf doesn't look great. Only way to know for sure is to fire it and after letting it warm up a bit see if it will move. If not, since the trans may have to come out the engine will as well. Its a very clean car for being in the rust belt, only needs 1/4s. Floors, frame, doors, and front clip are 100% rust free.
The proper way to try to bring one back to life is to remover the plugs and put some a solvent into the cylinders, replace the plugs and let it sit for several days to free the rings. Remove the plugs, Try to turn by hand and then spin the engine (plugs again removed) to eject the solvent. Fresh oil and filter and prime if possible. Try to start. If it fires you would listen to it and take oil pressure reading. If all seems well, further diagnose as to what is needed (valve lash - timing set - etc.).
I see no reason to tear it down until the condition(s) is known. This will be a driver?
The proper way to try to bring one back to life is to remover the plugs and put some a solvent into the cylinders, replace the plugs and let it sit for several days to free the rings. Remove the plugs, Try to turn by hand and then spin the engine (plugs again removed) to eject the solvent. Fresh oil and filter and prime if possible. Try to start. If it fires you would listen to it and take oil pressure reading. If all seems well, further diagnose as to what is needed (valve lash - timing set - etc.).
I see no reason to tear it down until the condition(s) is known. This will be a driver?
that's what I'm doing.
It will in time. But it needs a good deep clean, see if the trans works, and brake work. And tires, wheel bearings probably etc.
Thanks for confirming about pushrod length shown in the Ford Parts Catalog for a 1971 429 application....
I never knew all these years that a 1971 engine actually went back to a longer length pushrod, helped a friend with rebuilding his 1971 429 engine a long time ago and I could have swore that particular engine had 8.55 inch pushrods in it....
My apologies for stressing all 429-460 pushrods were the same length after 1968, that's what I thought all this time as mentioned on my experience in my previous post.
Even looked up other applications and aftermarket listings available for 1971 year 429 pushrods, as the OP even mentioned that they pretty much list or read that 429's are 8.55 inch - all my old PAW Ford parts catalogs only list a 8.55 availability, and one other listing for +.100 longer on a aluminum head.
It seems that the pushrod length is different with different rocker arms.Base "Thunderjet" engines use cast iron "rail" rocker arms and 8.67 pushrods.(some were listed as 8.70). CJ/SCJ/PC engines used stamped steel"conventional" rocker arms and 8.55 pushrods with guide plates..All these rockers were stud mounted. In1972, they changed to a pedestal mounted bolt on rocker,which shows a pushrod length of 8.60.
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