1971 429 PUSHROD LENGTH?
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
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From: W (BY GOD) V
None of this really matters, it's not about what length it came with it's what length do you need now.
You insert the called for push-rod, collapse the lifter and measure the resulting air gap at the rocker arm/valve stem. .060" OS and US push-rods are offered for service.
What type of push-rod checker are you guys describing here?
This topic, along with engine oils and brake valving can start the damnest food fights ...
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
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How can you assume this 50 year old engine has never been worked on ?
If you measure the pushrod length and then add your preload that is the exact length you need. and that's all that matters. big block Ford, small block Chevy, big block Mopar, small block Pontiac. it's all the same just measure and buy.
If you measure the pushrod length and then add your preload that is the exact length you need. and that's all that matters. big block Ford, small block Chevy, big block Mopar, small block Pontiac. it's all the same just measure and buy.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 218
From: W (BY GOD) V
If you measure the pushrod length and then add your preload that is the exact length you need. and that's all that matters. big block Ford, small block Chevy, big block Mopar, small block Pontiac. it's all the same just measure and buy.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,029
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From: East Central Ia
Ford went to higher deck height block and stamped steel rocker arms in 72 like 351 style. Never investigated pushrod length. If you suddenly have a bent pushrod for no reason there has to be a cause and a different length or larger diameter pushrod is not going to fix the problem. From the pictures that I can see it looks like a decently clean engine that has sat for a long time. Maybe was hard to start with bad gas and revved up to 3 or 4 thousand rpm when it fired? I will still guess a valve sticking in the guide. Tell us more about history behind the car/engine.
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Freshman User
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Ford went to higher deck height block and stamped steel rocker arms in 72 like 351 style. Never investigated pushrod length. If you suddenly have a bent pushrod for no reason there has to be a cause and a different length or larger diameter pushrod is not going to fix the problem. From the pictures that I can see it looks like a decently clean engine that has sat for a long time. Maybe was hard to start with bad gas and revved up to 3 or 4 thousand rpm when it fired? I will still guess a valve sticking in the guide. Tell us more about history behind the car/engine.
cruise is unhooked... Maybe it stuck wide open bent a few pushrods and thats why they parked it? Idk.
Carb is seized so i doubt it was started within the past 10 years or so. Plugs looked ok. Rich but ok.
Pretty sure its the OG cap and rotor. Old autolite 45 plugs.
It turns over a bit but hits a rust spot in the cylinders then stops.
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Lead Driver
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If it has a rust spot that probably answers your question as to why the pushrods are bent. the water entered the cylinder through the valve and the valves are either stuck or sticky. so either the valves didn't want to move or they were sticky and slow to return and the piston whacked them.
A rusted cylinder is cause enough to tear it down and in the process you'll find any other problems.
A rusted cylinder is cause enough to tear it down and in the process you'll find any other problems.
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Freshman User
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If it has a rust spot that probably answers your question as to why the pushrods are bent. the water entered the cylinder through the valve and the valves are either stuck or sticky. so either the valves didn't want to move or they were sticky and slow to return and the piston whacked them.
A rusted cylinder is cause enough to tear it down and in the process you'll find any other problems.
A rusted cylinder is cause enough to tear it down and in the process you'll find any other problems.
pretty sure the pushrods bent before it was parked. They did not bend in my ownership. Ive only owned it for 2 weeks.
Cargo Master
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From: W (BY GOD) V
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Klutzuz you do that, and next time I'm at Smith Brothers just down the road ordering pushrods I'll tell them zero lash measurement won't work anymore . I know it's true because some guy on the internet told me.
Mrsony. the point is if you have a rusted cylinder that in itself means the engine has to be torn down. at the very least it needs honed and new rings and more likely bored. and that water most likely did damage to the top end as well. when you factor in a rusty cylinder, bent push rods and it won't turn all the way over it's time to pull it down and see what you have.
Even if you were lucky enough to get it running those rusted cylinders are going to have awful compression and smoke like an old 2 stroke.
Mrsony. the point is if you have a rusted cylinder that in itself means the engine has to be torn down. at the very least it needs honed and new rings and more likely bored. and that water most likely did damage to the top end as well. when you factor in a rusty cylinder, bent push rods and it won't turn all the way over it's time to pull it down and see what you have.
Even if you were lucky enough to get it running those rusted cylinders are going to have awful compression and smoke like an old 2 stroke.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 898
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From: Coos Bay
I agree with tearing the engine down. You need to open it up and take a good look at it. Bent pushrods, partial rotation, and the little bit of moisture indicator (rust), that is shown in your pics, would lend curiosity as to whether you have a stuck valve or water on top of a piston. It would also say that there may be water in the pan. At the very least, you will put in new bearings, rings, timing set, gaskets and seals to freshen it up. I hate to say it but, you can buy 100 pushrods and not one will do any good if you cannot get the engine to rotate. Don't read this as being mean because it is not, it is just the simple reality of the situation.
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Working on the engine again.
Previously I was not able to turn the engine over by the crank bolt as there is no way to get to it without disassembling half of the engine compartment. I was turning the engine over by the alternator pulley because at the time, the starter would not turn the engine over. it would clunk, and nothing would happen. leading me to believe at the time the engine had some rust in the cylinders causing it to bind up and/or it was a weak/bad starter. After replacing said cables and taking the plugs out, and with a new battery, it turns over smooth as butter. I'm sure the three cans of PB blaster helped as well.
This is not the right way to do things, I know. Ideally I would remove the engine, but as of now it's literally sitting in a friends front yard and all I need it to do is move. Once there stops being 12 inches of snow every two weeks it will get a full rebuild.
Will report back once the pushrod checker and other pushrods arrive.
Previously I was not able to turn the engine over by the crank bolt as there is no way to get to it without disassembling half of the engine compartment. I was turning the engine over by the alternator pulley because at the time, the starter would not turn the engine over. it would clunk, and nothing would happen. leading me to believe at the time the engine had some rust in the cylinders causing it to bind up and/or it was a weak/bad starter. After replacing said cables and taking the plugs out, and with a new battery, it turns over smooth as butter. I'm sure the three cans of PB blaster helped as well.
This is not the right way to do things, I know. Ideally I would remove the engine, but as of now it's literally sitting in a friends front yard and all I need it to do is move. Once there stops being 12 inches of snow every two weeks it will get a full rebuild.
Will report back once the pushrod checker and other pushrods arrive.