severe pinging problem
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
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Hi, I'm a new member to this forum. and this post is my problem also. I have a '67 390+.060,10.5 compression,Lunati cam .514 lift,223@.050 duration, compatable comp cams springs,performer intake,750 Carter carb,Heads converted to hardened seats,new valves,bronze guides. I can't run ANYTHING less than 93 octane.87 and you can't even accelerate to 30m/ph,it sounds like the motor is coming apart.BAD. And it also doesn't seem to produce. It accelerates fine to a point and then just goes flat(there should be more). I had a holley 600 cfm,thought this was the problem but it is only mildly better with the carter.This was originally a 4barrel motor from a T-Bird. It is now in an '82 F-150,4speed truck tranny, 4.10's front and rear,35 tires(so 3.55 final gear). this thing should scream, but it won't. HELP????
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Originally posted by ewr
Hi, I'm a new member to this forum. and this post is my problem also. I have a '67 390+.060,10.5 compression,Lunati cam .514 lift,223@.050 duration, compatable comp cams springs,performer intake,750 Carter carb,Heads converted to hardened seats,new valves,bronze guides. I can't run ANYTHING less than 93 octane.87 and you can't even accelerate to 30m/ph,it sounds like the motor is coming apart.BAD. And it also doesn't seem to produce. It accelerates fine to a point and then just goes flat(there should be more). I had a holley 600 cfm,thought this was the problem but it is only mildly better with the carter.This was originally a 4barrel motor from a T-Bird. It is now in an '82 F-150,4speed truck tranny, 4.10's front and rear,35 tires(so 3.55 final gear). this thing should scream, but it won't. HELP????
Hi, I'm a new member to this forum. and this post is my problem also. I have a '67 390+.060,10.5 compression,Lunati cam .514 lift,223@.050 duration, compatable comp cams springs,performer intake,750 Carter carb,Heads converted to hardened seats,new valves,bronze guides. I can't run ANYTHING less than 93 octane.87 and you can't even accelerate to 30m/ph,it sounds like the motor is coming apart.BAD. And it also doesn't seem to produce. It accelerates fine to a point and then just goes flat(there should be more). I had a holley 600 cfm,thought this was the problem but it is only mildly better with the carter.This was originally a 4barrel motor from a T-Bird. It is now in an '82 F-150,4speed truck tranny, 4.10's front and rear,35 tires(so 3.55 final gear). this thing should scream, but it won't. HELP????
Elder User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 799
Likes: 0
I'm assuming you guys with the pinging problems have verified that the timing marks on your crank are correct?
If your harmonic dampener has slipped, all bets are off.
Another trick for decarbonizing the combustion chamber is trickling water into the carb while reving the engine -- just make sure not to turn the hose up full blast, otherwise you'll "hydraulic" the motor and bend a rod or two. A safer bet would to be to try a bottle of Techron Concentrate and after a couple of tanks full (to give it time to work) check the difference. You may a see an improvement in idle quality and peak power, too, as its designed to clean your intake valves.
But from what I've heard, the water method is still the most effective for combustion chamber deposits. My own direct experience with this is that I had a head gasket blow about a year ago. After the heads were off, there was absolutely no doubt which cylinder had the coolant leak -- the piston top was brand shiney new aluminum.
--Matt
If your harmonic dampener has slipped, all bets are off.
Another trick for decarbonizing the combustion chamber is trickling water into the carb while reving the engine -- just make sure not to turn the hose up full blast, otherwise you'll "hydraulic" the motor and bend a rod or two. A safer bet would to be to try a bottle of Techron Concentrate and after a couple of tanks full (to give it time to work) check the difference. You may a see an improvement in idle quality and peak power, too, as its designed to clean your intake valves.
But from what I've heard, the water method is still the most effective for combustion chamber deposits. My own direct experience with this is that I had a head gasket blow about a year ago. After the heads were off, there was absolutely no doubt which cylinder had the coolant leak -- the piston top was brand shiney new aluminum.
--Matt
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 1
From: Littleton, CO
I have taken a spray bottle and misted it over the carb in the past. This works great just before a trip to the emission stand. Learned that little tip a while back from a mechanic friend. The water beads do not combust and therefore ping around in the cylinders like little *****.
--Mike G
--Mike G
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 632
Likes: 16
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Originally posted by baddad457
To richen it, you need to change the jets. The jets are located in the primary metering block inside the fuel bowl. You will need some jets that are 2 to 4 sizes bigger than you now have, try going up 2 sizes then up 2 more .
To richen it, you need to change the jets. The jets are located in the primary metering block inside the fuel bowl. You will need some jets that are 2 to 4 sizes bigger than you now have, try going up 2 sizes then up 2 more .
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Judging from your part #'s on the jets, you've got an emissions 4160 carb. It's got #62 main jets ( performance equivalent of the #622 . Unless you want to buy the complete jet assortment , you may just want to order a pair of# 64's, and #66's to try out, maybe even a pair of #68's too. ( 2 of each #) Also get a trick kit for the gaskets and other parts you may need to reassemble it. I wouldn't bother messing with the secondary metering plate, they're generally calibrated rich to start with.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 632
Likes: 16
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
No more pinging for me. I figured it out. It seems as though since the truck sat so long that the carburetor was not sealing to good on the intake. I saw a little bit of moisture down around the base of it (fuel). I gave all 4 bolts about 3/4 of a turn and almost all the pinging went away. I then backed the timing off from 10 to 7 and all the pinging is now gone. Before backing the timing off would not help much so I am pretty sure that the leaky base on the carburetor was the problem.
In my search for the pinging problem I was checking over the distributor closely. It seemed to me that the mechanical advance was a little loose (rotor would turn very easy). I took it all apart and found that there was one stiff spring and one fairly light spring in it. The light spring was under tension but the stiff spring was very loose and didn't even stretch until the mechanical was well advanced. I bent the mounting tab for the spring a little so that it was just touching the spring. Now when the advance starts to advance the spring is already in contact. Is this the way it is suppose to be or was it suppose to be loose?
In my search for the pinging problem I was checking over the distributor closely. It seemed to me that the mechanical advance was a little loose (rotor would turn very easy). I took it all apart and found that there was one stiff spring and one fairly light spring in it. The light spring was under tension but the stiff spring was very loose and didn't even stretch until the mechanical was well advanced. I bent the mounting tab for the spring a little so that it was just touching the spring. Now when the advance starts to advance the spring is already in contact. Is this the way it is suppose to be or was it suppose to be loose?
Elder User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 799
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If I remember right...
I have the exact same dizzy spring setup as you, big/small/tight/loose, etc. And someone on this board said that was normal and the way they should be. Hopefully they'll chime in and confirm that.
I have the exact same dizzy spring setup as you, big/small/tight/loose, etc. And someone on this board said that was normal and the way they should be. Hopefully they'll chime in and confirm that.
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 632
Likes: 16
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
I loosened up the stiff spring tonight. It seems to have better low end now. With both springs tight it seemed a little sluggish through the first 1000rpm. Guess it is suppose to be loose.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Mount Sunapee, NH
I see in one of the post there is talk about using a spray bottle and water to clean the carbon off the pistons. I was wondering how much water do you spray in the carb to do an effective cleaning of the carbon off the pistons? how long between each spray? Any help would be great, I am planning on doing it this weeked do to really bad pinging.
Thanks
Jeff
Thanks
Jeff
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 794
Likes: 1
From: Portland, OR
Hey there,
Another thing to look at when trying to figure what's causing pinging- I might just be really lucky but I've managed to get 2 engines in 2 different trucks, 1 chev and 1 ford, that were bored .040 with .030 pistons in them. Both trucks were beaters I bought for parts, but damn they would ping and nothing I did would fix the problem. If you've got an engine and you don't know who worked on it think about that. About water in the engine- water works OK, but ATF works 10 times as good. I also use ATF to coat the cylinder walls on new engines I build for not so smart people I know won't break the rings in right. Rings always seat with ATF. I new a shop that put rings in dry. I didn't like that idea much, but they never had a problem.
Another thing to look at when trying to figure what's causing pinging- I might just be really lucky but I've managed to get 2 engines in 2 different trucks, 1 chev and 1 ford, that were bored .040 with .030 pistons in them. Both trucks were beaters I bought for parts, but damn they would ping and nothing I did would fix the problem. If you've got an engine and you don't know who worked on it think about that. About water in the engine- water works OK, but ATF works 10 times as good. I also use ATF to coat the cylinder walls on new engines I build for not so smart people I know won't break the rings in right. Rings always seat with ATF. I new a shop that put rings in dry. I didn't like that idea much, but they never had a problem.
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