severe pinging problem
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 632
Likes: 15
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
I will try putting different gas in it. I am on the first tank I have ever run through it. When I got it there was about 1/8 of a tank in it and I suppose it was about 10 years old. I didn't drain the old stuff I just filled it up with new. Most definitely could be the problem. I suppose I should run it low then drain the rest to get all new gas in it instead of a blend of new and major old gas.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
With 9:1 compression or less there should be nobody having problems with 87 octane and 44 degrees total timing. Best results for total timing in an FE will usually occour between 38 and 44 degrees.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
you know on the edelbrock carbs the 2 adjusting screws are for adjusting ar flow, not fuel flow, and its good to start off by adjusting them from about 3 to 4 turns out and work from there. im working with the same thing right now, but your timing also has to be pretty good to.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Originally posted by Ratsmoker
With 9:1 compression or less there should be nobody having problems with 87 octane and 44 degrees total timing. Best results for total timing in an FE will usually occour between 38 and 44 degrees.
With 9:1 compression or less there should be nobody having problems with 87 octane and 44 degrees total timing. Best results for total timing in an FE will usually occour between 38 and 44 degrees.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
I disagree instig8r63. Many people who have dynoed their FE engines have shown best results over 40. Most people get best E.T.s with about 42 degrees. Of course optimal timing has many controlling factors but the biggest one is combustion chamber design. That is where 40 year old technology is lacking.
And I agree Seth. Sometimes the gas quality is pretty low. It makes you wonder how they pass inspections.
And I agree Seth. Sometimes the gas quality is pretty low. It makes you wonder how they pass inspections.
Last edited by Ratsmoker; Nov 13, 2003 at 02:19 AM.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 632
Likes: 15
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Well I passed an I/M test yesterday and everything was well within spec. But it is still pinging under hard acceleration. I have three fuel tanks but only one had fuel in it so this morning I filled one of the other ones with 90 octane and took it for a drive. It sounds just like it does with the 87 octane. I am still at 10 degrees should I try less?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
Have you tried any carb cleaner? Run a whole can through the carb. 1/2 of it in the right primary and the other in the left while you keep the engine running. Wait until it is at full operating temp before you do this. This will eliminate the carbon buildup possibility.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 632
Likes: 15
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
I ran a 1/4 of a can through it. I will run the rest through it today. You say the right and left primary. No need to do the secondaries ?
Before I bought the truck it basically sat for the last 10-15 years only being started every few months and taken for about a 3 mile drive. When I first got it I didn't notice the pinging like I do now after having it for a few days. I may have just not been tromping the throttle but I didn't notice it for a day or two. The distributor was loose so the timing was way off (about 20 at idle) and the pinging seemed to show up after I properly timed it. With the timing advanced way to far like it was I had trouble getting it started when the engine was warm. Wouldn't this advance make it ping worse? It didn't seem to.
Before I bought the truck it basically sat for the last 10-15 years only being started every few months and taken for about a 3 mile drive. When I first got it I didn't notice the pinging like I do now after having it for a few days. I may have just not been tromping the throttle but I didn't notice it for a day or two. The distributor was loose so the timing was way off (about 20 at idle) and the pinging seemed to show up after I properly timed it. With the timing advanced way to far like it was I had trouble getting it started when the engine was warm. Wouldn't this advance make it ping worse? It didn't seem to.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
im not positive but isn't it a possibility that if the truck sat up that long that the lifters could be worn out, causing it to ping when the timing is wrong, and also try some fuel additive, something to add in the tank that cleans the system out, and i always run a hotter coil than a stock coil on my fords burn the fuel better than a stock ignition coil
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 632
Likes: 15
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Well I ran a whole can of carb cleaner through the carb. I also added a can of Sea Foam motor treatment to the fuel. I then put a half a can of Sea Foam in the crankcase and dumped the other half of that one down the carb. The "parts guy" told me that was the best stuff they had. It is suppose to remove all carbon, gums and varnish. I am now confident that the system is clean.
I have also tried the best gas I can get in town. I tried 87, 90 and 92.
After all this it still pings under acceleration. It seems to be a little better with the high octane fuel but not better enough to justify $.20 a gallon.
I have the timing at 10* and it gets a maximum of 35* so I don't think that is the problem. I am thinking that it is running to lean. I have a Holley 4160. How do I adjust it to get a little richer? I see one screw on the side that has a little cover over it with arrows telling which way is rich and which is lean but don't know if this is the idle setting or what.
I have also tried the best gas I can get in town. I tried 87, 90 and 92.
After all this it still pings under acceleration. It seems to be a little better with the high octane fuel but not better enough to justify $.20 a gallon.
I have the timing at 10* and it gets a maximum of 35* so I don't think that is the problem. I am thinking that it is running to lean. I have a Holley 4160. How do I adjust it to get a little richer? I see one screw on the side that has a little cover over it with arrows telling which way is rich and which is lean but don't know if this is the idle setting or what.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
I'm with ratsmoker on this one, y'all running low comp ratios shouldn't be having pinging problems. The 10.5 to 1 390 in my 68 Merc runs all day long on 87 octane, NEVER pings. Cam is a Crane 272 degree Energizer, timing is set at 12 degrees initial, dist is the original for the car with a pertronix unit. Intake is a 428PI, carb is a 3310 Holley, with the lighest sec spring, and a 50cc accelerator pump. Ran a modified 600 cfm Holley on it awhile and it did fine too. It did ping before I overhauled it and it had the stock cam in it and 2 bbl carb.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
To richen it, you need to change the jets. To richen the idle mixture, just turn the small screws on either side of the primary metering block counterclockwise. The jets are located in the primary metering block inside the fuel bowl. If you have a single feed carb, then you may need to have extra "O" rings on hand to replace the ones on the fuel transfer tube if you tear them, upon reassembly.A good method to insure they don't tear is to dip them in brake fluid just before reassembly. You will also need some jets that are 2 to 4 sizes bigger than you now have, try going up 2 sizes then up 2 more . You may also need new metering block and bowl gaskets.