Highway trip not an option. This truck only leaves my property to go half a mile to where I dump sand. Not licensed, insured, etc.

 

I might get away with that on my dirt road. Pavement out of the question. I can see it now:
"Yes, officer, I know the truck is not licensed or insured, and the lights, signals and horn don't work. The brakes felt pretty good today so I thought I would blow out the carbon."

 

At one time, not that long ago, he would have understood perfectly, and even probably helped re-adjust the ignition timing, idle mixture, etc.,and then closed the road to thru traffic while you made several high speed runs, to ensure a good break-in. Maybe a stern "lecture" somewhere in there for appearance sake, but still. Sadly this is not the case anymore in some jurisdictions.

It is important very generally during or after an overhaul to first - get the engine started quickly without a lot of contortions.

Then, break-in a new camshaft & lifters with a high RPM run in, for about 20 minutes.

At this point after cam shaft break in, but before rings are seated, avoid any further idling and get 'er out on the road, under load, to finish piston ring seating. Again modern ring materials and cylinder finishing techniques are different than the old school iron rings, chrome, etc.

Some "moderate" full throttle accelerations and decelerations from around 30 to 50 mph say. This ring seating business is important in such engines that are affected because if the cylinders glaze over, they will likely never seat going forward, and it will be a permanent "oil burner". It's kind of a one shot deal or the cylinders will need another ball hone deglazing w/ new cross hatch, and a proper break-in.

 

If I get her running again, I'll drive her around here. The off roaders get away with it all the time. Cops are thirty miles away unless they get a call.

 

How does the crankcase oil look, is it turning black already?

 

Still purple.
Checked oil in sunlight. It is black. It is Royal Purple break in oil. Used a generous amount of assembly lube also.

 

Update John?

 

Decided to replace plugs, plug wires, points and condenser to eliminate possibility of friend's junk drawer parts being wrong. Then had no spark. Stopped for lunch and a rain storm came through. It has been too cold and windy since. I'm guessing either points or wire to points grounded. I noticed when I tried to adjust points the vacuum advance plate wasn't moving freely so maybe wires are caught underneath.

 

sometimes you take two back before going forward...!

 

It was too cold but I couldn't wait. I found the terminal on the points had slipped off the mojnt and shorted, burned out coil secondary circuit. Reassembled points and installed original coil. Fired right up and purred like s kitten. An old rattling kitten but it ran great. Drove it twenty minutes around here on dirt roads. Hit 45-50 mph if speedometer accurate. Guess I'll do that again when I use the truck. Seemed to run well even wih the old gas mixed in.

 

A win! Happy you got it settled!

 

I think looking back I could have replaced plugs and run the heck out if it. Maybe a hotter coil would help prevent plug fouling?

 

Ok, so the old truck is still running fine but doesn't want to start cold without s shot of starter fluid. Fires right up and once warmed up it runs good. Would it help to try first the 40,000 volt Flame Thrower coil to see if hotter spark helps? They are fairly inexpensive. Then if necessary the pertronix electronic unit?

 

Is the choke working? Is the accelerator pump functioning when the engine is cold?

Lou Manglass

 

Choke opens and closes. Don't know if accelerator pump is working correctly. I have tried pimping once, twice a lot, and not at all. A really small shot of ether snd it fires right up.
Removed air filter and worked throttle. Didn't see any fuel squirting. This is an oddball Carter YF I rebuilt after engine overhaul.