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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

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Old Feb 5, 2021 | 02:20 PM
  #46  
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From: California High Desert
Originally Posted by Tedster9
How does the crankcase oil look, is it turning black already?
Thought it was still at least purplish but in daylight today it is black. It is the Royal Purple break in oil. I also used a generous amount of assembly lube.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2021 | 09:23 PM
  #47  
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You can remove the carb with it full of fuel and bench test it to see if it squirts when throttle is stroked.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2021 | 10:35 PM
  #48  
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Yes I need to do that. I watched a utube video on this model Carter. It has a check valve ball or needle in the passage fron accelerator pump. I remember it falling out the first time I took carburetor apart. Hopefully it is not missing or the passsge is plugged up. If not, maybe time to buy a new, correct carburetor. Anyone try the aftermarket Holley replacement? Pretty tempting at $95, free shipping. Good reviews too. I bought a used 1904 years ago and rebuilt it but then found the base didn't fit my intake. Must have been on something other than a 223.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2021 | 09:28 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by JohnNewb
Choke opens and closes. Don't know if accelerator pump is working correctly. I have tried pimping once, twice a lot, and not at all. A really small shot of ether snd it fires right up.
Removed air filter and worked throttle. Didn't see any fuel squirting. This is an oddball Carter YF I rebuilt after engine overhaul.
In my past experience, from a time when Carter YF's came on new cars, I seem to remember they were one of the carburetors where the accelerator pump would fail to function when cold then work fine once warmed up. Repeat the test you've already run after it sits overnight. Before you start the engine for the first time, take off the air cleaner, make sure the choke stays open, look down the throttle bore with a strong flashlight. Pump the throttle from 0 to full throttle with a even, steady motion. There should be a strong, visible stream of gasoline injected into the throttle bore by the accelerator pump. It may stop before you reach full throttle but it should start as soon as the throttle begins to open. If it fails to squirt, sputters, or doesn't squirt until part throttle; you probably have found your problem.

Lou Manglass
 
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Old Feb 6, 2021 | 09:35 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by manglass
In my past experience, from a time when Carter YF's came on new cars, I seem to remember they were one of the carburetors where the accelerator pump would fail to function when cold then work fine once warmed up. Repeat the test you've already run after it sits overnight. Before you start the engine for the first time, take off the air cleaner, make sure the choke stays open, look down the throttle bore with a strong flashlight. Pump the throttle from 0 to full throttle with a even, steady motion. There should be a strong, visible stream of gasoline injected into the throttle bore by the accelerator pump. It may stop before you reach full throttle but it should start as soon as the throttle begins to open. If it fails to squirt, sputters, or doesn't squirt until part throttle; you probably have found your problem.

Lou Manglass
It was cold yesterday when I checked it.
Checked again with new batteries in flash light. After pumping many times I can see gas coming out but not really spraying or atomizing. Pumped it a few more times and closed choke snd it started. Maybe I can live with it at keast untl I burn up the rest if this gas.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 06:25 AM
  #51  
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It sounds like you have an issue with the accelerator pump. You should see a small stream reminiscent of a squirt gun (not a Super Soaker!). It does not atomize as the vehicle is too cold and not turning over. You need heat and air flow to atomize the fuel.

The accelerator pump on the YF is a bit of a monster to repair so you might want to just get a rebuild kit and go through the entire thing. Note, there are YF and a YFA versions so make sure exactly what model you have before you order. Here's a link to a function description and detailed rebuild instructions of the accelerator pump. He has other diagrams and is a good source of parts as well. Not the cheapest prices but, definitely, the best value.

https://www.carburetor-blog.com/know...elerator-pump/

Lou Manglass
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 08:54 AM
  #52  
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Thanks, Lou. Very helpful. I did buy a complete kit but instructions were vague and included parrs for several different series.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 09:50 AM
  #53  
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I have never seen break-in oil turn black. Whats going on there? My oil looks new the first 2 changes (3hr cam break in & 500 miles). What the heck?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 10:21 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Red60
I have never seen break-in oil turn black. Whats going on there? My oil looks new the first 2 changes (3hr cam break in & 500 miles). What the heck?
I had that happen one time when I used a black assembly lube, not real bad but you could see a hint of black in the oil color. I just changed it after a 20 minute run.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 10:26 AM
  #55  
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I have not changed the oil and assembly lube looked a lot like never sieze grey. Am I supposed to change the oil? Have less than hundred miles I'm sure. Oil doesn't look dirty, just black if that makes any sense.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 10:36 AM
  #56  
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From: tujunga, calif
Originally Posted by JohnNewb
I have not changed the oil and assembly lube looked a lot like never sieze grey. Am I supposed to change the oil? Have less than hundred miles I'm sure. Oil doesn't look dirty, just black if that makes any sense.
I'm a lubebraholic, I change it after 20 minuted break in, oil filter too. Rebuilt engines are never 100% clean no matter how hard you try to clean them, I change it again after 100 miles, again after 500 miles. Then 3,000 mile intervals.
Just curious where in the high desert are you? I spend a lot of time in the desert, Mojave, Victorville, Joshua Tree etc..
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 10:44 AM
  #57  
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I'm in the suburbs of Newberry Springs. Guess I need to order an oil filter cartridge and some more oil. I know my engine was not completely clean. Washed it out as best I could but not surgically clean.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 10:49 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Red60
I have never seen break-in oil turn black. Whats going on there? My oil looks new the first 2 changes (3hr cam break in & 500 miles). What the heck?
Block and head didn't go to a machine shop. I washed everything during overhaul myself. Took a thirty day break in Miami and covered everything with motor oil to prevent rusting. Used gun cleaning rods on oil passages but lots of residue left I'm sure.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 10:56 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by JohnNewb
I'm in the suburbs of Newberry Springs. Guess I need to order an oil filter cartridge and some more oil. I know my engine was not completely clean. Washed it out as best I could but not surgically clean.
Isn't that just east of Barstow? I was just up there recently, I went up to Kelso. I'm a member of the Mojave River Museum group so I get up there occasionally.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2021 | 11:03 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by hiball3985
Isn't that just east of Barstow? I was just up there recently, I went up to Kelso. I'm a member of the Mojave River Museum group so I get up there occasionally.
Yes. What there was of a town is along the old Rt 66. I'm close to Mojave River near Calico Mountains. About in the center between old Newberry and Yermo. Twenty or so miles east of Barstow.
 
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