Hello all
I'm looking for some help in diagnosing hubby's truck. 2006, all stock except for EGR delete. Just in case it's relevant we just had the cluster rebuilt - it was installed Friday evening, and he put 100 miles on it before the wrench light came on Sunday evening.

Having temporarily misplaced my Dashboss, he scanned it with my tuner (SCT X4) and came up with three codes: P0069 (MAP/Baro pressure sensor correlation), P0107 (MAPcircuit low voltage), and P2285 (ICP sensor circuit low). He cleared them with the SCT and they came back on. He says he left them alone after that.
A little more background here - he was running a tune (a towing one, adds 65hp) and then his scanner was stolen. Could that tune combined with a cluster rebuild cause problems?

Today, having found my Dashboss, I scanned it and got no DTCs. When I first started the truck the wrench light was gone, but after letting it warm up, maybe 10-15 minutes, the wrench light was back. I had been planning to take if for a drive to see if I could get any codes, but there was absolutely no throttle response so I idled back into the shop and shut it down.

Later this afternoon, after doing some reading on what PIDs to watch I set up the Dashboss to collect live data. The photos below are KOEO, during start up, and running. The little dots on the graph show what the readings were at that moment.



Readings taken KOEO

Readings taken during start up

Readings taken at idle

I cut off the EOT and ECT from the graph. They were in the low 100s, having idled and then sat in a 35* garage.
Do you see anything I have missed in my scan? I still get no codes.

EBP wiring was replaced within the last 6 months. Immediate plans include cleaning the MAP, checking the EBP sensor for carbon/gumminess, removing/cleaning the turbo. I would welcome any input you may have for how to get this fixed!

 

Check v-reference voltage when cranking and at idle

 

I tried, and couldn't find it in my list of available PIDS. Searching the Dashboss site for VREF, I found this How to Configure and Use External Sensors.

And then my phone died.

 

Can't help you with the DashBoss programming, but I'm with Mark - need to check that Vref. He'll know why; I don't, lol. Just the odd assortment of electrical codes, the low battery voltage, the way he cleared the codes and they came back immediately without, if I understood you correctly, driving the truck. Something sounds like it grounding/shorting out. Vref is like the network voltage connecting all the sensors back to the PCM - if it's not around 5v, something is prolly wrong in the wiring. Maybe not a coincidence that your cluster (instrument cluster?) just got changed; maybe took a few miles for something wrong with that to burn a fuse or relay? Maybe they pulled the harness out of the PCM and loosened one of the other connectors?

All just guesses from me. You'll resolve your issue faster following Mark guidance.

 

Haha - that’s what I said to hubby last night. “If Mark said to check it, I’m going to check it!”

Now to figure out how. Maybe Dave, my mechanic, will come over on his day off. I can send him the link to this thread. Dave is a good guy. Dave has much better scanning equipment than I do...

 

Yes, if I understood hubby correctly the codes came back without the truck having moved.
I don’t have any argument with the advice to check vref- the following is just a little more on the points you brought up.
The instrument cluster was pulled out and shipped away for a rebuild, then shipped back and reinstalled here.
Low battery - I wish I could remember if we replaced the batteries or just talked about it, lol. I do know that starting it after 6 days of not running was a bit of a strain.
And I forgot to add checking the PCM is on the to-do list too. Hopefully we can get to that later this afternoon.

 

Battery health is certainly very important. In fact it is one of the first things to do (along with verifying proper oil level, and having clean fuel filters).

I am curious - how do you plan to check the PCM?

 

I’ll see what I can find out about the batteries. The truck has basically been parked for 2 weeks, other than the bit of driving right after the cluster was reinstalled.
By checking the PCM I just meant visually - looking for obvious physical damage to the wires. I’m not even brave enough to unplug things for fear of breaking the plastic parts.

 

Simple test is to put a meter on the battery and check voltage. Then start the truck and check again. See what you get.

 

Okay, I finally have something of an update. Monday was ski hill day, so no truck work happened

Sunday night I heard back from my mechanic, he suggested the next move would be to talk to the guys who rebuilt the cluster before going too much further. That's what I did today.
I also made some inquiries of the local PowerStroke group to see if anyone had a better scanner. The only reply I got was to check the ICP sensor with a voltmeter.

The instrument guy didn't have many suggestions, other than he'd be happy to take another look at it if we want to ship it back down there. So, that's an option but it's at least a week of down time and $70 in courier fees.

Mark's advice to verify battery health was today's task, so they were on a trickle charger overnight, then posts and connectors scrubbed and neutralized. Tested with my Solar BA5 and they are both reading "good". And hubby confirmed that they are only about a year old. I reconnected them and went back to trying to get a reading with the DashBoss. The wrench light was on when I first turned the key, but in the process of trying to connect DB to both the vehicle and my phone the wrench light disappeared. The scan was clear again, but the truck didn't start when I turned the key, so I turned the key back and lost the Bluetooth connection. It did start on the second try, but I didn't keep messing with the DB so I didn't get any of the data. (and now there's a new question - why didn't it start right away?)

But, the truck was running and there was no wrench light. I hit the go pedal and got a response! I'm still nervous to take it any distance from home, but I drove it down our dirt road and back (1/2 mile-ish) and had no troubles. So now it is parked, and when hubby gets up to go to work at 3 am, he's going to drive his truck and I'll follow along in mine just in case. It's about 6 miles away.

I'll have to ask him what he thinks, but I'm not certain that the accelerator pedal is functioning as well as it had been before. Like, I had to press it further before there was a response. Maybe.

Tomorrow I plan to contact Dashboss to see if they have any advice (buy the new one!) and get back to my mechanic to see if I can get him to scan it. It'll be a lot easier if I can just drive it to his shop!
*Edit to add: I might have to consider changing my signature

 

3 am update - the truck is still in my yard. Hubby started it up (started no problem) and noticed that the boost gauge on the dash went up to 20 when he turned the key to wait for the glow plugs, and stayed there after starting. Then the wrench light came on and he had no throttle response.
He says the check engine light had been gone, but it came back - this is something I didn't notice because I tend to ignore the CEL due to mine being permanently on. I'm pretty sure it was on yesterday evening when I drove it down our road. But he said that was new and figured I could now get some codes.
I drove him to work, came home and scanned the truck. When I turned the key on, waiting for Dashboss sync, I watched the boost gauge under the speedometer. It was initially at zero, but then it went up to about 15 and spent several seconds bouncing between 3 and 15, then went back to zero. All this was KOEO. And, I'm not really feeling the affection I have in the past for the Dashboss, I still got no codes.
And now I'm going back to bed.

 

The reason I suggested checking the v-reference voltage (you should be able to get it from the Dashboss), is that a short in a sensor like the EBP sensor can cause all kinds of throttle response issues. It can also cause hard-starts and even no-starts.

Also would be good to see the vgt % duty cycle at idle.
Lastly - post EBP, MAP, and Barometer readings at KOEO.

 

Alright, I hope this is the final update! Dashboss confirmed that code reading is not their strongest feature. Maybe not in so many words, but I now understand they aim for a basic level of service for a broad range of vehicles. I still like it for my basic live data, but we will be shopping for a laptop to install Forscan on, unless you guys have a better suggestion. Keeping the DB, since it can also scan our kids' and friends' non-Ford vehicles but even the SCT X4 outperformed it on this project.
So, no VREF numbers available, but my mechanic had me check the voltage on as many sensors as we could, and EBP was super low. 0.04v. Hubby had changed the wiring harness for that sensor not too long ago, but when he pulled the sensor yesterday it was pretty clear that it was a major issue, even if it turns out to be one of many.

So, sensor is changed and the truck is running well. He will take it to work in a few hours and I'm supposed to keep the phone handy just in case. I told him he should warm up my truck when he warms his up.
DB found no codes, and the SCT found several. He cleared them without making note of what they were I guess we'll see what happens!

 

This was very helpful, Jack. The way the day played out wasn't quite what I was planning but this was key in me knowing the right questions to ask. Thank you.
I messed up getting the readings a few times, checking psi instead of voltage (twice! ), hard starts messing up the OBD sync... I did get MAP at 17.42, and BAROInHg 19.49, both koeo.

 

Glad you found the EBP issue.

Those MAP and Baro readings sound a little low for inHg and a little high if PSI for KOEO.

btw - Mark.