Need power steering help
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Joined: Jul 2020
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From: Central Florida east coas
Need power steering help
Need advice. Sold my 78 F250 and bought a 1976 F250 Highboy 4X4. Problem is the old power steering leaking and will only turn to the right with power assist. To the left is hard manual steering. The pump appears to be fine, the assembly mounted on the side of the frame rail "may be OK" but the cylinder mounted to the axle which actually moves the tie rod, leaks profusely and will back pressure the fluid through the top of the power steering pump.
I removed the ram piston cylinder and took it to a hydraulic shop who said they could not get it apart, so it is unusable, and also had a bent rod.
Question.......where do I go from here? as I can not find any of these parts. Option 1, remove everything, weld up the frame rail and install a Bluetop and new Borgeson shaft....or......go to electric power steering. Really would appreciate some advice or direction.....Joe..
I removed the ram piston cylinder and took it to a hydraulic shop who said they could not get it apart, so it is unusable, and also had a bent rod.
Question.......where do I go from here? as I can not find any of these parts. Option 1, remove everything, weld up the frame rail and install a Bluetop and new Borgeson shaft....or......go to electric power steering. Really would appreciate some advice or direction.....Joe..
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 996
Likes: 318
The parts are available through Bluetop though you may need to send them your control valve and cylinder. I rebuilt my own control valve with parts from Bluetop but its somewhat of a project and suggest one should have experience with hydraulic repair. My truck is original so I wanted to keep it that way plus in my case it was way less expensive since I was doing the work myself and my cylinder did not need serviced either.
If you plan to keep the truck and drive it alot you should probably just modernize it and be done and expect additional advice here will be relative and give you the best source. I never heard anyone that converted to conventional power steering say "I wish I'd never spent the money and should have stayed with the power assist".
I tend to be an originalist and to me keeping the power assist system is part of the character of a highboy. If you convert just keep all the power assist parts so you can pass them along to the next owner when the time comes.
If you plan to keep the truck and drive it alot you should probably just modernize it and be done and expect additional advice here will be relative and give you the best source. I never heard anyone that converted to conventional power steering say "I wish I'd never spent the money and should have stayed with the power assist".
I tend to be an originalist and to me keeping the power assist system is part of the character of a highboy. If you convert just keep all the power assist parts so you can pass them along to the next owner when the time comes.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,894
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Nobody is more of an originality purist than I am, but there are times when you have to admit there are acceptable upgrades. two examples are radial tires and converting the poorly designed, poor functioning oil spewing power steering disaster Ford used for way too long.
I converted my '76 with a Benchworks kit , the best $1400 and days work I ever spent. whether you use a kit of cobble up your own conversion it will be a big improvement and then you can just forget about . no more herding your pickup down the road and no more watching for leaks.
I converted my '76 with a Benchworks kit , the best $1400 and days work I ever spent. whether you use a kit of cobble up your own conversion it will be a big improvement and then you can just forget about . no more herding your pickup down the road and no more watching for leaks.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 996
Likes: 318
If you decide to repair/replace the power assist system, the control valve is $300 and cylinder is $290 with core charge factored in. Then shipping to you and return shipping of your cores guessing adds close to another $100.
All the seals are available for the steering box except the input shaft seal. If needed a different seal can be adapted with a little machining. Or Bluetop, can take care of rebuilding your box as well. Then you may as well replace all the hoses which will also be somewhat of a challenge. This winter I plan to send my original lines to a shop that will maintain the original steel section of the lines but put new rubber sections in as the metal portion of lines have mounting brackets soldered to them I want to maintain. I think there was a recent post where someone was retrofitting aftermarket lines to make them fit better installing the the old brackets on the new lines.
Call and talk to Bluetop with your questions and concerns. They were very helpful to me when I dealt with them.
https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dc...Ford_c_12.html
All the seals are available for the steering box except the input shaft seal. If needed a different seal can be adapted with a little machining. Or Bluetop, can take care of rebuilding your box as well. Then you may as well replace all the hoses which will also be somewhat of a challenge. This winter I plan to send my original lines to a shop that will maintain the original steel section of the lines but put new rubber sections in as the metal portion of lines have mounting brackets soldered to them I want to maintain. I think there was a recent post where someone was retrofitting aftermarket lines to make them fit better installing the the old brackets on the new lines.
Call and talk to Bluetop with your questions and concerns. They were very helpful to me when I dealt with them.
https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dc...Ford_c_12.html
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,924
Likes: 153
Most cylinders can be fixed but you have to cut it open and weld it back together. The rod can be straightened in a press. If it isn't pitted too bad it can be hard chromed and centerless ground back to size.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 118
Likes: 2
Think long and hard about it before you do it. Those prices listed for redoing the OEM ram and control valve seem a little cheap. Eight years ago I went the Red Head. Great parts but I want to say I was around $800 into for the ram, valve, and hoses. It is a pain to bleed correctly. It works well but there is a lot of stuff involved in it. Used it for years then decided to modernize since I am redoing the entire truck. Finished the Benchworks kit install and I have to say I am well pleased. Cutting the radiator and fitting was a bit of a pain, and not quite like the instructions but the rest was simple. Well made and works great. IF you go that route you can cut some cost by sourcing some of your own components, or doing a complete conversion your self as there are numerous threads on it. Time is a commodity for me so I bit the bullet and am happy. It is pricey. Electric steering is definitely an option. I chose to stay with the more tried and true hydraulic system simply due to years in service and familiarity but it would be nice to not have to deal with hoses, fluids, belts, and clean the engine bay aesthetics up a bit which ES will do.
Good luck on what ever you choose.
Good luck on what ever you choose.
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