While you're waiting for it check the oil level in your HPOP, I know you said you verified the crankcase was good but you should check the oil level there also just to rule it out.

 

Sounds good and when you have this issue resolved, you will have a firm understanding of how to use FORScan or FORScan Lite.

As well as checking what MD_7.three mentioned, stop by the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder at this link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-7-3l-psd.html

There is an entire section in the dedicated to FORScan as seen below. I would suggest starting with the Tutorial Q&A which was put together by a fellow FTE'r.

 

thank you a ton, I could have used this a lot this year haha! Definetly a good schematic to have

 

The later IDM will work fine on your 99. They are all pretty much interchangeable despite the different specs.

Is the CEL lit?

 

nope it’s not, no codes either I tried switching out the idm last night and still no change either

 

Have you checked the HPOP resivoir yet? Reason being 1) you said no smoke when cranking, so no fuel getting to the cylinders, plus you tried with the ICP removed which should default the pcm to the 500psi level it requires to send fuel. 2) you said it sat for a while, there is a check valve, that has been shown to fail in a way that allows the HPOP to drain back down over longer periods sitting, and if coupled with a weak LPOP could be preventing the HPOP from filling back up while you’re cranking.

Takes about a minute to check and eliminates a possible cause for your no start issue.

 

I have not checked the reservoir yet but when I’m cranking the lpop gauge on the dash comes up over half way which looks normal to me... I will check the reservoir though when I get home to verify since it takes no time to do

 

Those are dummy gauges controlled by the PCM that only change from default values when extremes happen...you're not seeing actual LPOP pressure. Also, if the HPOP is empty, it can take A LOT of cranking to push enough oil back up into the HPOP to start building the ICP required to provide fuel to the injectors.

The HPOP should be full nearly to the top of the plug, if it is not add some fresh oil and try to start.

 

so this evening I ran down and put 5 gallons of fuel in it, then pulled the Allen key plug on the top of the hpop, the oil level was about an inch down from the top.. So I put about 400 ml give or take in it with a syringe until it was full then put the plug back in and cranked it. Still no start and no smoke out the pipe.

One of the diesel mechanics from work said to take off the oil lines that feed to the head to see if they **** oil out when cranking to see if the pump is putting out a good amount of oil (since 600psi is called for it should figuratively explode out from the lines is what I can come up with) other then that I am out of ideas until the scanner comes in the mail.

 

I wouldn’t go that messy route, at least not yet, just wait to see some scanner data

 

I second this. You already have a scanner coming that will read the pressure for you.

Those lines make a horrible mess and sometimes don’t like to seal back up. I had to order parts to rebuild dads fittings after a simple HPO hose replacement turned not so simple.

 

Once you get the bluetooth OBD and Forscan set up you'll want to monitor some things. I'd start with the items below.

ICP PSI will range from 500ish at idle spiking up to 3k psi pulling off WOT. As more fuel is requested more oil is needed to push it thru the injector.
ICP Duty Cycle % will range from 15ish at idle to 65% at full output. It should not get to 65%. The HPOP operates for longer duration to supply the additional requested oil.
RPM just to make sure the CPS is working.
Battery voltage. Per Ford it needs 10.5v to start, but my truck started at 8.5v.

Other more savvy folks will chime in with more PIDs to monitor.

Fuel pressure is not monitored so you either need a dedicated gauge or a simple flow test via the yellow water drain lever.

 

The fellas above have some good advice for you. Below is a list of PID's we recommend monitoring to people such as yourself when using FORScan or FORScan Lite. o RPM(1/min) – Engine revolutions per minute

o IPR% - IPR duty cycle percentage

o ICP(psi) – Injector Control Pressure (select the first ICP as seen in the image below in FSL)

o VSS(mph) Vehicle speed sensor

o FUELPW(ms) – Fuel injector pulse width

o MFDES(mg) – Mass fuel desired

o EBP_A(psi) – Exhaust back pressure (select the EBP_A and not EBP)

o MAP(psi) – Manifold air pressure

o IAT(A°F) – Intake air temperature

o MAT(A°F) – Manifold air temperature

o EOT(A°F) – Engine oil temperature (select the second EOT as seen in the image below in FSL)

o MGP(psi) – Manifold gauge pressure (boost)

o ECT(A°F) – Engine coolant temperature (only available on ZF6)

o TFT(A°F) – Transmission fluid temperature (only available on 4R100)

o VPWR(V) – Vehicle battery power

o TC_SLIPACT(1/min) – Torque converter (only available on 4R100)

 

No wait to start light sounds like fuel heater to me. Did you unplug it and change the number 30 fuse? We have had guys tow the trucks hundred of miles just to find out this was the problem.

 

So... I got the scanner today, came home from work and plugged it into my car just because it was in the garage and i wanted to see if it worked. It took a bit to connect but I got it to read data and clear codes on my car.

Later went to plug it into my 7.3 and I couldn’t get it to connect for the life of me. I had it connect once for about a minute to another scanner app besides forscan lite called dash command, but it wouldn’t read any data or do anything really then disconnected on me.

while I was messing with it the wait to start light came on and off as per usual, I could hear the fuel pump priming then kicking off after a few seconds as it should. I don’t thing my pcm is the issue but I am wondering if it could be a body ground issue possibly. Tomorrow I’m going to remove and clean them all to rule it out but I am scratching my head now. I think it has to be an electrical issue causing all this.

Only other thing I can come up with is when I bought my truck the windshield was cracked badly and it did leak just a little bit, enough to have some minor moisture on the dash. Then later this summer I was experiencing some chatter from the relays under the dash when I would shut the truck off, it actually shut off on me once or twice but fired right back up on me right after. I did some reading and figured my gem module was going bad but it never really acted up on me since then so I never really did anything about it but I wonder if that also could be contributing.

Either way I am thinking it has to be electrical related whether it’s a broken wire or something else I’m not sure but it’s driving me up the wall and I have no idea how to diag it.