I just love seeing how some of these conversations go sideways so fast.

In my new shop I'm doing the wiring so I'm tending to over do what I have. Labor and Industries has dictated that all my power in the shop must be in armor and metal boxes.

100 amp service tied into the house's input with a new 100 amp breaker. 1 1/2" conduit buried at 24" with #2 SER cable to feeder in the shop.

Lighting is 18, 4' LED shop lights with each line of 6 off of it's own dedicated 15 amp breaker. 12-2 in armor as required in Washington state L&I.

Front and back security lights off of their own 15 amp breakers and 12-2 in armor.

Electric outlets are wired with a max of 3 off of a 20 amp breaker. Again 12-2 in armor.

I have an 80 gallon commercial 5 HP compressor that I'm wiring on a dedicated hardwire with a disconnect switch between the breaker and the motor. I'll use 10 wire for that circuit. I'll pour a separate 6" pad and also make a separate enclosure outside of the shop so I don't have the noise.

I'm also adding a 50 amp RV plug for my trailer which will also have it's own 50 amp breaker 10-3 in armor.

I don't have a need for a drier or welder in the shop yet so that's not being done at least for now.

I have started on my CCTV and Ethernet to the shop, 3/4" conduit again at 24"

Maybe overkill but better safe than sorry.

If it's not enough I will listen and fix it.

 

^^^Your approach in general is the same path I'd go---I've heard that sort of approach as a "code + 1" scenario. Over the longer term your use of somewhat "better" than the minimum standard will serve you well I'm sure. Doing it once the right way would be the only way I'd want to go about this.

Having been in 100 or so different semi-commercial garages I've noticed a significant lack of electrical outlets as well as man doors---they're just never located in good locations IMHO. I guess my thoughts are convenience and practicality over one-time initial expense.

 

When they installed your new sub panel did they drive two 5/8" ground rods? (Or whatever code is in your area) Properly grounding a sub panel is very important.

Other notes. LEDs draw very little power and you could probably have them all on 1 breaker. Ethernet is generally ran in 1" conduit, but 3/4" will work fine. And what do you mean by, "12-2 in armor?"

Also, make sure you pigtail your receptacles. The two extra screws are not to be used.

 

Is this a new requirement?

 

I don't know if it's new or not. It's rather important though. Using all 4 screws will make the receptacle part of the circuit and it will burn up.

 

Understand what you're saying, makes sense.

 

Yepper, been there and done that already.

 

A receptacle used as a disconnect must be horsepower rated & the wiring must be sized from the tables in NECcould article 430 for a 5 HP single phase motor rated for 230V , table 430.248 lists the amperes as 30.8, after adding 125% that is 35A so the minimum circuit is 35A which requires 8 AWG if NM cable ""Romex®" is used or if THHN/THWN conductors then 10 AWG*, is permitted, unless somebody is willing to buy a high dollar pin & sleeve** receptacle / plug there is no code compliant way to cord and plug connect a 5 HP single phase motor, it's cheaper to hardwire & use a fusible or non-fusible pullout AC disconnect, anyone using a 3-wire dryer or range cord & receptacle for anything other then those appliances, is not code compliant either, they are non-grounding dual voltage 125/250V rated devices, prior to the adoption of the 1996 NEC it was permitted to ground the frames of clothes dryers & cooking equipment to the neutral of those appliances, now that is only permitted in existing installations, and that was the only code compliant use of those devices.


* there are different rules that apply to motors, & air conditioning equipment that allow 10 AWG THWN conductors to be used for 35A, it does not apply to general purpose branch circuits though, and do not apply to NM sheathed cable, they must be sized from the 60°C column of table 310.15(B)(16)

**A pin and sleeve receptacle, back box, & plug could cost $400-500 dollars.

 

Unless someone has local amendments, back wiring is code compliant, but on cheap residential grade devices the maximum size wire is 14AWG, for back wiring, pigtailing is good practice though, buying higher quality receptacles that use a pressure plate tightened by a screw is good practice also, rather then use push and pray connections.