These are one dollar.

 

That's just 1 piece, add up 100' of compatible wire and conduit. There's no way you can do it cheaper than a pigtail unless your panel is mounted right where the compressor will be installed. Mine is not.

 

Step one: Remove 220v receptacle
Step two: Connect 3 wire nuts
Step three: Install single gang cover (pictured above)

You're just going to have to trust me on this one.

 

You're not figuring in all the other items required, what's a 100' of wire cost that can handle 220v single phase? How much does the conduit cost to run that distance? How much are the brackets to secure said conduit for the length of the run? Add all that up and I guarantee it costs more than $17.95

If you're talking about installing a plate next to the dryer receptacle then you also have to mount another box to support that plate, a pass thru to support the wires and then run the wires from one stud to the next or down the same stud then use wire nuts, All of which takes a lot more time than plugging it in not to mention if you do that and run the compressor and dryer at the same time you'll overload the circuit and trip breakers.

My way you're guaranteed to not run both machines at the same time which could happen if I'm in the garage working and the wife decides to run a load of laundry.

You can sling all the bull you want, I know better.

 

I'm not sure if you're trolling at this point or not but here is my last reply.

You originally said, "Most modern homes will already have the receptacle installed." The wire is already there in our scenario. Remove the receptacle, install flex conduit or MC to the single gang cover, connect the wire with red tan wire nuts.

I have over 15,000 hours experience in industrial and commercial construction and maintenance. No bull slinging here.

 

Look at my post again, your way you risk overloading the circuit if both machines are running. My way you can only run one at a time. That you should understand, if you don't you need your license revoked.

 

Ah you updated your post on me. I see.

The single gang cover I posted would be used in place of the receptacle. I never suggested having a 240v dryer sharing a circuit with a 240v compressor.

 

So how is one supposed to use the clothes dryer when needed?

 

Look bud, My ticket says electrician. Not magician. I don't know the exact layout of your house. The whole point of this thread was plug or hard wire. Permanent equipment should always be hardwired unless the user manual states otherwise. 240v compressors don't come with a cord. They don't sell a cord. They don't want you to use a cord. Any further questions I would refer you to the NEC or your user manual for your compressor.

 

My compressor came with that black cord you see in the pic. Your argument was cheaper and easier to hardwire, I think you'll understand now it's not.

 

My whole take away is that nobody actually asked the OP what the true and FLA was. You wouldn't be running a true 5hp motor using a dryer outlet. Equipment outlets should be dedicated and the wire in the circuit needs to be properly rated. When you tap off a existing dryer outlet it's almost a guarantee that you are attaching to romex which as we know has to be de-rated for temperature. I am not against putting whips and plugs on equipment, I do it frequently. I have a lot of equipment in my shop setup with them. This is where 6/3 SOOW comes in handy or SJOOW if the voltage is low. I also have the cable drops and equipment all setup with 3 pole 4 wire California Twist locks. This gives a ton of flexibility and these connectors are very common and rated for industrial high usage.



I also have a long list of items I hate on compressors after doing pressure vessels for decades. It bothers me when I see air compressors still sitting on pallets instead of being mounted on vibration isolators and no seismic ( Region Depending) or anti tip bracing. I was also taught that a overload should always be in the magnetic starter and not in the motor. All installs above 1hp should have a magnetic starter and properly adjusted overload. It allows you to stop the overload at the source and not wait for the wiring and breaker.
https://www.gencable.com/product/twi...yle-connector/

 

Don't need a 5HP compressor. Mine is 3.5, 60g and has the most CFM at the lowest PSI of all single phase 220 compressors available at the time of purchase and made in USA. The pigtail is more than adequate for the load.

https://www.powerequipmentdirect.com...VQ/p12330.html

 

The OP was inquiring about his newly purchased 5hp air compressor.

 

X2
In my first house U also wired my 80 gallon 220v compressor with a plug as I had it all on site at the time.
I was also thinking I could also unplug the compressor and plug in a 220v welder or different type of welders.

In my new house I had to have the service up graded to my garage so I had a pro do the work but I had him reuse the plug assy. I brought from the first house so I could also do the welder thing when I need to and he was happy to do it that way.

Now if I have 1 compressor and 2 different 220v welders we are now talking x3 on breakers, wiring, boxes, etc.
How is that cheaper than 1 breaker, wire, a complete M/FM plug assy. and 2 more male plugs?
Yep always spending our money LOL
Dave ----

 

You could save even more money if you only had one 120v receptacle for your entire house. Just plug whatever your using in when you need to use it. One breaker, one conduit, one receptacle. Why do you need multiple?