That looks exactly like the one I had that died. However, I must mention that I had owned it since 2004, and used it maybe 3 times in the next decade. It sat in the closet most of it's life.

I found out today that while my truck was at the shop they had a break in of customer's vehicles. I noticed my cheapo floor jack was missing, along with 3 face masks, and the brand new package of electrical connectors and cheap wire crimp tool, and a Walmart bag of tools. Most of the tools I have had for over 20 years, but I had just bought the channel lock 3 piece set, and new locking pliers, and I think even the new rubber mallet is gone too. They left the truck unlocked while it was there. Which is probably a good thing otherwise it may have a broken side window by now. I was able to get the jack back as the thieves (or thief) used it to steal the rims of other customers cars, but left it there when done. They also broke the ignitions of some of the cars as well. They even took the cardboard I had in the truck bed that I kept so my neighbor, or grandson could crawl under the truck without getting dirty. I thought about filing a claim, but I got the most expensive item back (except the tools which I can't provide receipts for most of them) and will just chalk it up to experience. I will however, go back to my regular mechanic who locks up all customer's vehicles inside his shop when they close at night.

Anyway, I finally got a chance to put some miles on the truck today as I returned a seat belt extender to O'Reilly's, and bought another package of wire connectors and crimp tool. My friend who agreed to install my cheap stereo was home, so I went over there, and now I have tunes! Only the rear speakers work though, but for now that is fine. When I can recover from financially from all the parts/work done on the truck, I will buy some door lock cylinders, and cheap Kenwood speakers, and then install them all at the same time, since I have to take the door panels off do do them both. I did screw up on the way back though. Joseph needed the gear selector down so he could remove the dash panel. So I told him to just put the parking brake on. When he was done, and I pulled away from his house, it felt like something was dragging the engine down. Along the way (he lives on the west side of town, I live on the east) I smelled what I thought was burning oil, and just assumed since the engine had been sitting for 5 years, it was just burning off the oil that had been sitting on it. It wasn't until I parked in the carport and started to get out that I saw the parking brake was still on. Needless to say, I disengaged it.

I took it out on the freeway, and drove around town and the engine ran fine. It is a bitch trying to start it for the first time of the day, but after it warms up it runs fine, and start with just one twist of the key. I didn't notice any front end problems while on the freeway, it didn't pull to either side, or shake the wheels, the brakes didn't squeal or pull to either side when applied either, even with the parking brake on. All the gauges work, heater works, but I have yet to try the AC. However, over all, I am happy with it. Now, if it will run reliably for the next year or two, I will be even happier.

Jim

 

Happy Wednesday the 13th! Or Humpeth Day to anyone unlucky enough to have to work for a living.

Jim

 

The batteries inside of those are terrible. They use 9V batteries. The least expensive 9V battery cost more than the multimeter.....which was free.

Wait a minute. You were already parked. Why would you release the parking brake?

Along with the dim lights at idle, I would suspect an electrical problem. Battery stores and most auto parts stores have testers. They test for free. The good devices actually produce a print out. It will let you know if there are problems with the battery or alternator. Here in The City, we have battery distributors. The ones that I do business with will even help with sourcing the parts. Every once in awhile, it could be something like a bad ground wire, corroded wiring and connectors, etc. As you can imagine, cutting, stripping, and crimping on a connector or ring terminal, is difficult at best without the right tools. My Leatherman won't do the job with 1/0 or 2/0 wire. Sure, you can use bolt cutters, a Buck knife, a chisel, and a sledgehammer. A good battery distributor will custom cut the length, attach the correct terminals, and even seal off and insulate the connection.

In case anyone doesn't know, Okinawa used to have a Subway. Now there's a Jersey Mike's.

 

I just saw this Andy, i'm really sorry my friend. We don't deserve the unequivocal and absolute love and loyalty our fur babies give us, and its that dedication that makes them so special. I'll send a thought up tp Kada so she can go look for her fellow Blue and show him around.

Stewart

 

Decided to buy another multimeter like the one in storage. The HF one is now back up to $6.97. I took the parking brake off because if I didn't, I would forget that it is on, and do the same dumb thing all over again. I don't use the parking brake, I have an automatic trans.

Jim

 

The store had a line at the lottery machine. Tonight's drawing must be huge.

Is this guy drunk?

 

Jim, I don't know how old the gas in that truck is, and maybe you've taken care of that, but if you haven't be sure to freshen up the gas in the tank & maybe that will fix your cold start problem?

 

There was no gas in the truck when I bought it due to some jerk poking a screwdriver in the bottom of it to drain it out. After patching the hole with JB Weld, and a mesh screen used in bodywork, it does not leak. All the gas in it now was put there by me.

And as of yesterday when another valve stem failed, all four tires have new valve stems, and the left rear tire has been replaced because it was not able to be repaired. Too many sun cracks. So I bought a used tire, and they installed a new valve stem. Took the truck to Les Schwab for their free brake check and the brakes are good, but they say the two front brake hoses are showing signs of heat/age cracks. They don't leak, but it is recommended to replace them. They also say the fluid is dirty. They want $230 to replace both hoses, flush and bleed the system. That will have to wait as my finances need to recover from this past month. When I got home from Les Schwab I took a nap, then went out to the truck to do some more work. That is when I saw the right rear tire flat. Since I don't have a spare, I had Geico tow it to America's Tire to get the valve stem replaced, and they told me valve stems are free, so I had them replace the only other used one. that is how all four are new. Now, maybe I can drive this thing for a few hundred miles without another problem.

Jim

 

As a child, my all-time-favorite television program was MythBusters. I aspired to be a scientist, just like my heroes, when I grew up.

 

I got wood ramps so I could put my BBQ rig up into the truck when I compete and when I take it to the music festival. It's not particularly heavy, but it is seven feet from end to end.
I went with two ten-foot ramps. Also, I made it a point to get pressure treated lumber, since I knew I'd be storing them outdoors.
Only problem I've had with them is that they've warped a little.

 

I got 2x8 by 16 and had them cut into two 6ft lengths, and then the remainder cut into two 2ft lengths Haven't tried them yet due to the tailgate no opening. Once I get that problem resolved, I will assemble the ramps.

Jim

 

The typical issue is the Alternator or the Voltage Regulator.
Battery, Alternator and Voltage Regulator - the Triumvirate of automotive electrical systems.
If that's got a serpentine belt, it's probably not a loose belt problem.

 

It has a serpentine belt, and the last time I drove it home at night, the lights didn't go dim, and the turn signals flashed normally. So I am thinking the battery was just low due to sitting at the shop for two weeks without starting. The multimeter I order arrived yesterday, so I will go out sometime this weekend and check it anyway. However, my oldest grand daughter is staying the weekend, so I may just wait until Monday.

Jim

 

Dome light switches are easy to check manually. Mine are in the door frame, not the door.
I've replaced the switch on occasion, then "tried it out" without connecting the wire/cable to the back of the switch body. Pressure from the door pushed the various pieces of the switch apart and some of them fell down into the body well. I wasn't happy about having to order an extra switch.
I've also had switch failures that caused the fuse to blow.

 

Heh - teach her how to use it!