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That may be the solution. I like that it comes with a circuit breaker, instead of a fuse. You will want to securely bolt that to the frame of the truck. Just drilling a couple of holes in the truck bed, and bolting it to the bed of the truck will not be a good idea. A little custom fabrication will cost more than you pay for the winch. Someone would have to go under the truck, weld on a thick piece of iron like a crossmember between the frame rails, then drill out the holes for mounting the winch. You don't want to turn the winch on, and watch it rip the bolts out of the truck bed where you mounted it, while your scooter remains at the bottom of the ramp.
I thought a crane might be good for lifting your scooter into the bed of the truck. But it's manual, so you have to crank by hand. Then there's the part where you will have to rig up straps to pick up the scooter.
Harbor Freight has already solved your problem. A task specific solution.
HAUL-MASTER
500 Lb. Capacity Aluminum Mobility Wheelchair And Scooter Carrier
(877)Write a ReviewExtra wide wheelchair carrier bed fits almost any mobility device
$15999
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
The extra wide bed of this aluminum wheelchair carrier accommodates most mobility vehicles up to 500 lbs. and features an aluminum construction making it lightweight and easy to attach to any 2 in. class III or IV trailer hitch. The gradual slope on the detachable fold-up ramp makes loading your wheelchair or mobility scooter a breeze while four tie-down anchor points secure and stabilize your wheelchair or scooter during transport.
Heavy duty support beams for strength
Lightweight aluminum construction for quick and easy mounting
Detachable fold-up ramp has a gradual slope for easy loading
Four tie-down anchor points for secure and stable transporting
Receiver fits all 2 in. Class III / IV hitch tubes
Aluminum construction resists rust and corrosion
Cargo platform: 47 in. L x 27-5/8 in. W x 7-1/2 in. H
Exterior platform: 50 in. L x 29-1/2 in. W x 9 in. H
Removable ramp dimensions: 41-1/2 in. L x 27-3/4 in. W x 1-1/2 in. H
The wheelchair carrier is not going to work. I already have spinning tires on my ramps, don't need to spend $500 and have a steep incline to push my 225 lbs scooter up. And my scooter is longer than the one in the video, and that one barely fit. That is out of the question. As for the manual hoist, that is also out of the question. If I decide to use a hoist, I will just have the one removed from my Sienna. It has a C shaped bracket that attaches to the seat post of the scooter and lifts it into the van. Beginning to look like that is my only option. Just have to find out how much they will charge me to have it removed from the van and installed in the Ranger. And the cost of a cover, and cable/chain/lock, and tailgate net. Looks like I will have something to spend my next stimulus on.
Similar project on the pickup truck. The coin holder and cigarette lighter were removed today. I have a USB port where the cigarette lighter was. A voltage gauge with more USB ports is going where the coin holder was. Now I have to figure out where to get those small pins to plug into the factory harness for power. Then build the wiring. If anyone is an electrician, please help me with sourcing the connector. It would be ideal to be able to find a matching half to plug in. Otherwise, I can connect a male spade connection to a wire. Then I will fabricate something to mount the gauge on which will cover the hole in the dashboard. Maybe just a piece of plastic.
When you pulled the cigarette lighter, the two wires for that should be perfect for what I think you're trying to do. I'm not an "electrician", but I am an engineer with experience in mechanical, electrical, software, microwave, TCP/IP (internet), and avionics.
Black wire should be ground. Blue/White wire should deliver power fused at 20 amps. I could easily splice into those wires.
I want to continue to use the factory harness. The harness connects directly to the cigarette lighter, as an assembled unit. What I need is the other side which connects to that harness. A matching harness connector. Or at least the pins which are built into the harness, so that I can connect the pins to my wiring. I could easily solder and insulate a small male spade connector, if I can find the correct size. The blade type spade connectors found at Home Depot ar not the right size. Too big. Radio Shack, which used to stock small, low voltage parts is no longer in business.
Here is the "mock up" of the dash panel with the power ports mounted. I just need to solve the connection riddle. Or I will have to cut the factory harness off and install my own quick connect/disconnect connectors. If at all possible, I want to retain the factory harness.
Well the brown stinky stuff has hit the rotary air oscillation device up here, or more accurately the snow has arrived.
I-5 from Redding to Medford/Ashland is closed with reported snow drifts of 6’ between Weed and Yreka and snow on the highways all the way down to Cottonwood on the Southern Shasta County line.
Blasted flatlanders don’t know how to drive in it, so ALL tow trucks are running flat out tonight.
Last edited by Modoc; Jan 27, 2021 at 01:32 AM.
Reason: Added screen shot of Caltrans Quick map.
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We had an "entertaining" evening. Winds were hitting close to 50 MPH and the rain was coming down hot & heavy. We were close to an inch of rain when the power went off just before 9PM. Came back at 6AM, so it must have been simple. Our weather station does not upload or save data when the power is off, so we don't know for sure how much rain we got. I'm going to guess it was close to 2". We also had snow off and on from around 3PM onward. Sometimes there were flurries, sometimes just rain.
At the beginning of the year, the weather guessers all said, "drought, water shortage, blah, blah blah....." Now it's "atmospheric river, storm, flood, landslide".
Somehow, our utilities are going up.
I got the dashboard pieces hooked up and working. Now it's just a matter of solving the connector harness riddle. I want to leave the OEM harness intact, and just use it. If I can find the part which pairs onto it, or simply the correct size pin or spade connector, then I won't have to cut the OEM wiring. I want to be able to just plug right into it.
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