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axle swap Jack stand help

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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 10:13 PM
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axle swap Jack stand help

My axle started leaking at the pinion seal very recently for my latest project it could probably be rebuilt however it already was 80k ago. The biggest concern for me is where to jack up the truck from in order to carry out the job successfully. It is a CCSB with 4 inch lift. Does anyone have some advice? the job appears pretty straight forward and I would not mind doing a writeup to make it easier for others.
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 10:27 PM
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You should not need to lift the truck to do the job, especially since there is room under the truck. Block the wheels, pull the driveshaft, remove pinion yoke/flange, remove seal, reverse to assemble.

Of course, that is super cliff notes, but you get the drift. Not a terrible complex job.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 11:14 PM
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I am swapping the entire rolling assembly instead of doing the repair. The axle is has always been pretty out of wack with backlash since he returned it to me. Also guy that did the rebuild wasn’t the best person for the job either. It can probably be done but it’s easier for me to just change the whole unit for one I know is in good working order.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 11:31 PM
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A pinion seal with 80k miles on it shouldn't leak, it sounds like your pinion preload wasn't properly set or you have a bent pinion gear. These axles are quite expensive and hard to find, they tend to end up under Jeeps and rock crawlers. I would suggest having someone redo the gears and bearings. Have you had a lot of weight in this truck? Unless you've exceeded the 5200# AWR with a monster cow catcher and winch, your axle tubes shouldn't be bent.

My 6 ton stands weren't enough to hold up my stock height truck when I replaced my leaf springs. 12 ton jack stands only get another few inches, but any higher and you have safety issues. I would suggest jacking up the truck by the axle, lowering it onto jack stands placed under the frame rail, removing the wheels, and lowering the jack further. The axle/brake rotors shouldn't touch the ground.

Prepare to get new u-bolts. I bought mine from a local semi truck shop that bends them for half the price you'd pay online.

The tiny screws holding the front axle u-joint into the pinion yoke are pretty pathetic. Order a new set on Rock Auto, they like to round off easily.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 01:34 AM
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Just remembered have a spare set of stock wheels on old tires I’m now planning on putting those on all 4 corners and airing them down as well. For me it’s best to just move on from this cursed unit and have the chance to change my bushings and replace broken helper springs at the same time.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 07:29 AM
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Place some super heavy duty semi truck style jack stands under the frame. Jack the truck up by the rear axle's pumpkin to get enough height so the axle hangs without touching the floor when you lower the frame onto the jack stands. Ideally, you should leave the wheels on so you can roll the axle out easily. Remember to chock the front wheels. before doing any of this.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 07:39 AM
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If you have access to a heavy duty Cherry Picker hoist it makes it easy. Just pick the whole truck up from the end you need and add some jack stands for stability on the frame.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 08:57 AM
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I have used the "cribbing" technique in the past when I was doing a spring swap on the rear end. That along with floor jacks, jack stands and chocks made the job safe and manageable for one person working on the concrete floor.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RigCity
Just remembered have a spare set of stock wheels on old tires I’m now planning on putting those on all 4 corners and airing them down as well. For me it’s best to just move on from this cursed unit and have the chance to change my bushings and replace broken helper springs at the same time.
Ah, I thought you were talking about the front axle. The rear should roll right out a lot easier. Remove the spare tire if you need the extra room to roll it out.
 
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