Reading the service manual about removing the transmission from my ambulance, and it talks about turning the torque converter to access the bolts holding it to the flywheel. How do I do that when the engine is hydrolocked?

 

You could pull the glow plugs and possibly get the engine to turn. Or you can leave the torque converter bolted to the flex plate and pull the trans off. Make sure to pull the trans straight back, you don't want to put weight on the shaft and bend it. You'll still have a problem with the converter bolted to the flex plate, but you'll have the trans out.

 

Thanks, Mark. I'm going to tow the vehicle to a shop and have them remove it since I don't have a way to lift it up high enough to get the transmission out from under it. Just wanted to make sure they know the issue so they don't try to charge me additional.

BTW, how much do you think it should cost to remove it? I had one shop quote $700, which seemed a little high, especially after a second shop in OK (where the shuttle bus is the trans is going in) quoted me $500 to pull that one AND install the replacement.

And, is there any other parts I'll need? I've got a case of fluid to give the installer and can't think of anything else I need. I can change out the filters when I get it home.

 

I am out of touch with prices. You shouldn't need anything else.

 

Thx again, one last question I just thought of...the shop that will install talked about a chance that metal bits got into the fluid lines and cooler, so he'd want to flush them out. Does that sound right?

 

It's always a good idea to do a flush of the lines and cooler when a transmission goes belly up. And change the filter also. So yes, they are right about that. B.

 

It is always good to flush the coolers. It's MUCH better to replace them.

 

Great, thanks. I'll take the cooler off the ambulance and swap it in as well.

 

I'd personally work the hydro lock first (use rags to contain the Kilauea "eruption" ) to avoid putting unnecessary loads on the flex plate (they do crack and bend then you get a whole lotta shakin goin on), rear crank seal etc. Once free, use a 36" extension from the front of the vehicle to remove the torque converter nuts via the inspection plate. On the Cummins engines I work on I use a barring tool to rotate, for the 6.0 it's 18/19mm - 15/16 on the balancer or two bolts/metal bar same place to rotate.

 

He could pull the glow plugs or injectors (his choice) then use the crank bolts to turn the crank.

I'd be surprised if a trans shop took more than one hour to pull the trans.

 

Thanks, guys. It's been so long since I looked at that ambulance that I forgot...I call it hydrolocked but, IIRC, it would turn over super slowly, even with brand new batteries. That never made sense, so I assumed there was coolant filling a cylinder. Hopefully, it will move enough to get to the bolts.

Also don't think the long extension from the front is the way to go on these Eseries. I'm guessing that access plate is available with the dog house off. Probably real easy to get to them.

Thanks, Jack. That's more like what I was thinking, that it wasn't all that much work. I think that shop was trying to gouge me, prolly because I mentioned that I was having trouble finding a shop to do it because they couldn't lift it up. Dang, it's Google Reviews had quite a few referrals stating how fair and honest the guy is.

Here's some more questions: Wondering now if I can remove it myself. I see the trans weighs about 350lbs, but I can't find specs on its height. Trying to understand how high exactly I'd have to lift the truck to get it out. I only have a typical floor jack, not a low profile jack. And how do I place that jack? In the my youth working at a transmission shop, we just used a floor jack under the pan, but those cars had very lightweight trannys, and I could just grab the rear housing to balance. I doubt the pan on this tranny could support 350lbs, nor could I balance that lying under the truck. Wondering if it'd be better to remove it first, then roll it off the jack onto a piece of plywood, and then lifting up the truck and dragging the plywood out. Or, if I can keep it on the jack, I could roll it to the wheelchair lift on my bus and get it inside for the ride to OK. Maybe I'd be less work to lift the rear of the truck only. Don't know why I'd need the entire truck in the air.

 

You can jack the vehicle up, add some more 4x4 woods and 2x12 or whatever can help. I was able to do that before, and slide it out on the side.
That was on a sloping parking. On flat, it's much easier.
The econoline, I used the long extension to reach the bolts (just like the F series).
You can strap it up, and lower it down slowly, then slide it side-way with some pads/wood down to the ground level, maybe on a strong tarp or something strong, then pull it out.

This used to be very cheap for me, now it's more:
https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb...ack-61232.html

 

That sounds more like a bad A/C pump then a hydrolock.

Check Craigslist for used HF trans jacks. Also if you have equipment rental shops (not auto parts stores) they sometime have rental jacks. From what I've seen, and there are YT videos, many lift the rear end of the trucks up rather than the front. If you are on grass or dirt, a sheet of 3/8" ply give good ground. In some cases, taking the a rear tire(s) off for an escape hole. There are two windows for accessing the TC bolts, to the drivers side and at the 6 o'clock position, I've used both.






Not a 5R100, but good for you still.

 

You're second guessing the guy who actually does this? How many of these have you done? I can tell from your doghouse comment - none. The doghouse is on top, the access plate is on the bottom. I would be amazed if you could get even one nut off from the top. I doubt you could even get the access plate off.

Around 24 inches. I don't remember ever measuring this, but I have looked at more than a few.

You use a bracket that attaches to the jack and surrounds the pan. This way the pan rail supports the trans, not the pan. But the pan keeps it from slipping off of the jack. If you don't have the right tools it is going to be a lot safer to have someone that does do the job.

 

Thanks, everyone. I'm not meaning to second guess anyone, Mark. I'm too ignorant to even think about doing that. All of the regular contributors here are much more knowledgeable than me, as my username acknowledges. And, yes, I've never pulled a Torqueshift; I've only pulled gasser cars, but I have done dozens of them many years ago. From what I know, other than the weight and getting it in the air, pulling a tranny is an easier job than lots of other things I've done on these trucks.

I thought F350 might have assumed I had an Fseries or that he misspoke when he said come at it from the front, or maybe I'm not understanding him correctly. If it's possible, I accept that, but still don't see how I could get at anything on the trans through the hood. Just finished tearing through my other shuttle to replace an injector and couldn't even do that only from the front, had to come through the back and bottom as well. Rereading what he wrote, I now think he's saying I can get the TC bolts from the front AFTER removing the transmission w/bell housing. Still seems crazy - but hopefully I'll won't have to find out

Anyway, again, now that I think about it, the engine does spin, so I should be able to get to the bolts through the access plates.

Is that bracket custom or is there a part number I can get one from Ford? Yes, without the right tools, this won't be safe. But if I can't find someone cheaper than $700, I can buy the tools, still save money and have the tools. And, if I'm successful, I can double my savings by using the tools again to swap in the tranny to the OK shuttle. Finally, if I can do both jobs, it prolly saves me another $500-$800 in towing fees for both vehicles. However, be assured that if I can't do it safely, or if it's just too much work/too heavy for this old man, I won't even attempt it. I'm cheap, and an ignorant bonehead, but I've made it 64 years without a major injury and don't want to risk one now.

24" seems doable, although the bodies of these shuttles and ambulances may hang lower than a standard Econoline. I just measured my working shuttle, in the dark, and there seems to be about 11" of clearance at the outside edge. So, maybe I only need to jack it 15" or so. What about getting it out and on the ground/plywood/tarp, then just jacking up one side?

Thanks for the vids, Jack. Don't know where you find all the pics and vids you share; guess I just didn't search long enough. I'll watch them right now. As I recall, at the time I did remove the belt to eliminate the AC, bought new batteries, and it still turned over slowly. Never got it up to 150rpm.

And, yeah, both trucks are on dirt or gravel, so I'll be taking some plywood along. Are you suggesting the rental jacks because they might be lower profile, or in some other way more suitable than a typical HF floor jack? I'm going to look at Namnguye's link too. There's a HF around the corner from me.