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I suggested renting as it would cost less than buying a new jack, but I would not use the cheap one at HF; you want more of a base. The $180 one is better. In some of the videos, people also use ATV lifts; HF sells those too. Any of those can be resold on CL when you are done.
I mentioned taking a tire(s) off the pass side because you can use the opening to give clearance when the body sits lower than the frame. The trans is tallest at the bell housing, not the entire case. Even people who use normal frame jacks to get them down and fall to the surface drag them out afterward. The problem with that is using the pan to support the trans. The bigger issue is getting them back in.
I like the kid's vids. Great camera work. He sounds very experienced for being so young. But yeah, I was hoping he continued on with a vid on putting it back in. I may have to let that OK shop do the swap in, but he had the reasonable price for doing that.
That first vid showed the guy using the pan with wooden blocks...hmm. And both projects had a transfer case which won't be an issue for me. The kid also seemed to turn the torque converter by hand, after taking off the starter, which he had to do, if I saw it correctly, to get one of the inspection plate nuts. Is that because he has a 4x4 and unlocked the hubs, or will I be able to do the same. Or, does the 5r110 not have an inspection plate bolt behind the starter, such that I can keep it in to bump the flywheel around?
I did notice, however, that the kid was panting towards the end. If the young Turk is panting, what will I be doing? I'm currently battling some vertigo episodes, but should still be able to do this. And, it did look like he only jacked up higher the one side of the truck to get it out.
I had vertigo once before, maybe 10 years ago, but it was related to an ear infection. Pretty sure this one is Benign Blah, Blah, where calcium comes lose in the inner ear. Did you do the exercises where you turn your head to one side and fall back on your bed? WebMD says to do that 3 times before bed and it clears up in a few days. You have to do the same thing, turning your head both ways, to figure out which ear it is. I'm starting that tonight.
Yeah, I think I'll skip the install. No way I'll be able to get that trans up on the jack and back under the truck by myself. It's worth $500 to do the swap.
I thought F350 might have assumed I had an Fseries or that he misspoke when he said come at it from the front, or maybe I'm not understanding him correctly. If it's possible, I accept that, but still don't see how I could get at anything on the trans through the hood.
You can't get at anything on the trans through the hood. Not on an E-Series, and not on an F-Series. You get at the converter nuts from the bottom front. The access plate is on the bottom of the bellhousing. You must be under the vehicle to access it. You should remove the TC nuts (they are not bolts) before pulling the trans. The torque converter should come out with the converter. You risk damaging the input shaft if you don't remove the converter with the trans.
If anyone needs some random Econline parts, LMK. They're in Dallas, but free to FTE members. Another question, although no one may know...I'd love to salvage all the injectors out of that engine, and I may get the driver's side ones since I'm going to be taking so many parts off it that the valve cover will be easier to get off. Just wondering, after watching the way the engine tilts back when removing the trans, if that will let me get to the passenger side without the whole motor mount removal thing.
OK, Mark, that's what I thought. Not sure what F350 meant by "use a 36" extension from the front of the vehicle to remove the torque converter nuts via the inspection plate." From the vids Jack provided, it looks like you can access the bolts under the lower inspection plate without an extension at all, or a short one. I guess he just doesn't want to crawl under the truck, or since he turns the crank to get to the bolts, he only crawls that far under.
Are you talking about the TC nuts, Namnguye? Cutting them off? Now that I understand the task, and remember that the engine would spin, I'm hopeful those nuts won't be a problem.
Dang, Jack, I hope this doesn't last 3 weeks. While not the worst problem to have, it's still irritating. Felt like I was falling out of bed this morning when I woke up and turned over. Scared the hell outta me. That's when I started researching. Did the diagnosis procedure and confirmed it's my right ear, which is the one I barely hear out of too.
It's easier to use a long extension to the driver's side window and stay upfront so you can turn the harmonic balancer for the next nut. I used the 6 o'clock window when I had one nut slightly rounded; my fault.
The worst is from a lying position; I've had it occasionally happen for 10 years, probably close to ten times. You need to be checked for Meniere's disease. And if so, stop all salt. I eat a lot of sea salt, but my issue is not Meniere's.
With a 7.3L you have full access to the large diameter flywheel, you do not. He can do it by hand when any cylinder is not at full compression, and use a wrench on one of the nuts when it is.
