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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 07:11 AM
  #16  
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when purchasing them, it is a good idea to take the old ones in to match them up.

Also they will probably be pre=greased but one never knows. If you have a grease gun then once in place give them a couple of squirts.

Of course if they are are sealed then no grease.

Greaseables I would give a shot or two at every other oil change, same as other greaseabe parts.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 07:23 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by senix
when purchasing them, it is a good idea to take the old ones in to match them up.

Also they will probably be pre=greased but one never knows. If you have a grease gun then once in place give them a couple of squirts.

Of course if they are are sealed then no grease.

Greaseables I would give a shot or two at every other oil change, same as other greaseabe parts.
Thanks again. Of course I’ve already Googled how to do it and it looks doable. I’m not really a beginner, but I’ve never done this before. When I start a project like this, I usually end up spending as much money in tools as it would cost to pay someone else to do it, but afterward, I know how to do it AND I have the tools to do it with. Being able to intimidate friends and enemies by fixing your own truck is priceless!
 
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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 07:32 AM
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most likely a 3/8, 1/2 inch or metric equivalent combo wrench, hammer for some persuasion, good sized screw driver and that should be it.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by senix
most likely a 3/8, 1/2 inch or metric equivalent combo wrench, hammer for some persuasion, good sized screw driver and that should be it.
I haven’t been under there to check it yet, but the mechanic said, “That’s an aftermarket shaft, cause those aren’t Ford clips holding the u-joints in it.” So, I’m thinking now that it MAY be a stock shaft, but somebody had already replaced the joints like we’re talking about. Since it’s worked for me for the last 140k miles, I’m thinking use those clips and get the same kind of u-joints and I’ll be fine.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 07:58 AM
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sounds like a plan.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 08:05 AM
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Just make sure the driveshaft goes back together the same way. As in, the 2 ends are "timed" correctly. You may also consider having a driveline shop balance the shaft for you once you get the new U-joints installed, and before you put it back in the truck. Take a close look at the hardware once you have it down, and don't be afraid to replace it if the bolts or straps are hammered.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 08:11 AM
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yes, mark each end with the driveshaft and transfer case so you put in in just as it was. some finger nail paint or a scrib mark or something.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 08:13 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Slowpoke Slim
Just make sure the driveshaft goes back together the same way. As in, the 2 ends are "timed" correctly. You may also consider having a driveline shop balance the shaft for you once you get the new U-joints installed, and before you put it back in the truck. Take a close look at the hardware once you have it down, and don't be afraid to replace it if the bolts or straps are hammered.
This is the front driveshaft we’re talking about. I’m thinking that balance is not such a big deal as it’s only engaged at slow speeds (and not very often). That assumes that it doesn’t spin when not in 4wd. Am I wrong about that?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 05:07 PM
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the front drive shaft may or may not turn even with the front end unlocked. The centrifical forces will tend to turn it a bit but not at full speed. Only when the hubs are locked do you get full speed.

If there were no other issues, I would replace the u joints and put it in and go for a drive.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 10:25 PM
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I would still have the driveline shop balance and check for straightness. May not be that critical for the front one but it can't hurt either.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 2004 F450
I would still have the driveline shop balance and check for straightness. May not be that critical for the front one but it can't hurt either.
Agree. I checked today and mine does not move at low speed in forward or reverse, but I have no idea what it does at highway speed. If it does spin at speed and it’s out of balance, you’d know it pretty fast.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2020 | 01:41 AM
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I'd recommend Spicer U-joints non greasable or just pull and have a driveshaft shop handle it, they may even paint it.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2020 | 08:47 AM
  #28  
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You've already gotten a ton of good advice here, but from what I've read I gather this:
1. you bought a used truck, chances are good someone replaced the original u-joints. Common, they're a wear item.
2. You noticed at some point using 4wd (or during an inspection at an oil change) that the u-joints are bad again. Again, common, it's good practice to engage 4wd and drive around a bit (no tight turns on pavement!!!) to move the grease around or they'll dry up and disintegrate.
3. Your mechanic sent you on a wild goose chase. There's only a few reasons any driveshaft needs to be replaced due to wear, and it doesn't sound like any of them apply to you (bent, broken, cracked, unbalanced, or splines stripped out). Find the best u-joints you can and have them replaced, some shops will even press the old ones out and new ones in for you for a small fee (probably an hour's labor rate, that's what I always got billed).
 
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Old Dec 21, 2020 | 09:06 AM
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you can press them in and out with some simple tools and vice for that matter.
 
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