Hello all, first time posting but used this forum many times before in fixing my truck. Like the title says i have a 2000 7.3 with about 365k miles. I went out of town for a week and came back to find my truck very hard to start, after running batteries dead I recharged finally got started and drove it around neighborhood I pulled into driveway began to idle extremely rough before finally shutting off and I have not gotten it to again since. I checked basics, charged batteries, checked oil and oil level in hpop reservoir, threw in a new motor craft CPS hoping to get lucky, have clean fuel in the bowl and it refills after draining. GPR tested out good. Checked tin nut on back of IPR, tried starting with ICP unplugged. After some more research, got a scanner and ran a couple tests. On The BUZZ test the very first injector appears to be sticking, 2 of the remaining 7 sounded a little rough the rest sound good. Ran the key on engine off on demand test and got the following CODES: P1280, P0472, P1239. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but get a little lost on the electrical side of things. From what I understand the UVCH is known to have problems frying or popping loose under the cover. Is this where I need to look next. Thanks all in advance.

 

Welcome to the Forum.

I would start with the batteries. Remove them from the truck. Charge them individually and have them load tested. You need 10.5 V minimum to get the truck to start. Once that variable has been eliminated then move forward with the trouble shooting...

 

Will pull them out and charge them separately tonight, and bring in tomorrow to have tested and report back.

 

Dan, while the batteries are charging, feel free to have a look in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder.

Specifically the two "no start charts" which I linked below for you. These should give you some very basics of what the truck needs to see in order to start.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...6&d=1564895572

and

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1588427681

Keep us updated and welcome to the FTE!

 

Sous, thanks for the reply and links. Assuming battery checks out what would be the procedure for testing burned pins at the UVCH. I read about a test where you unplug the 9 pin harness that plugs in to valve cover and probe the 2 outer holes on each side of connector but honestly did not understand what I was trying to find. I believe my multi was set at 20 ohms and I was grounded on battery and got about 23 at each connector. I believe it said 0.6-2 was the acceptable range. What would this indicate? Again I’m not the brightest crayon when it comes to electrical diagnosis so I apologize if I’m not making sense lol.

 

I could not find P1239. Do you mean P1293? That one might make sense given your symptoms. Could be an UVCH opening up. If it is P1293, that would be Bank 1 - passenger side. You could start with that valve cover.

 

How much fuel is in the tank and what is the oil level?

 

BWST, yes you’re correct sorry I typed it in wrong. It is injector high side open bank 1.

Fuel level is 3/4 of a tank, oil level is fine.

 

Update: charged batteries out of the truck and took to store this morning. Both tested good. So I came home and put a wire brush in a drill and cleaned connectors and terminals till they were shiny. And would you be damned truck started right up. It’s always the simple stuff.

However It’s idling pretty poorly and spitting a lot more white smoke then it ever did. Gonna hook up scanner and see if I get anything.

 

When you ohm check your harness from the 9 connector pin on the valve cover both of your leads from your meter will connect to pins. I always cross my leads quickly to see that my meter is working and my leads are connected to the meter correctly. You should see very little resistance when connecting the leads together. On my fluke i see .02 ohm with leads connected together.
On the 9 pin connector one lead will go to the center pin and thr other lead to the left or right of that. Refer to the tech library for specific pins to check and for desired ohm readings.

 

Are these factory injectors?

 

T wood thanks I’ll give it a try when I get a chance to work on truck again.

as far as I know injectors are factory

 

Time to replace the injectors at minimum.

 

Bitterroot,
How would you confirm whether an injector is toast. Buzz test? Is there a way to tell if they’ve been replaced or if they’re original. I got the truck from my uncle at 300k a couple years ago and he doesn’t remember whether or not they’ve been done. So I’d assume they’re original but they very may well have been replaced.

 

‘My truck came with 351K on it, wouldn’t start under 50* and it sounded like an old tractor until it warmed up. I replaced them with Rosewood 140 sticks, upon removal of the injectors we realized 6 of the 8 were original. It probably needed injectors for a while. Think about all the parts we’ve replaced on our trucks long before 300K! You can run a buzz test but 300k is a lot of miles...