Poor brakes
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,845
Likes: 2,352
Your brakes should perform well . I would start by checking the obvious things like the pads, shoes , rotors and drums . if they're glazed or out of adjustment start there. don't buy the most expensive pads and shoes they're designed to last forever and that comes at the cost of performance often. I like the cheaper ones they seem to work better.
Then your hydraulics and booster need to be checked. check your vacuum as well,
Then your hydraulics and booster need to be checked. check your vacuum as well,
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
There is a lot of things that play into this. What is the condition of the rear brake shoes and adjustment? What is the condition of the rubber hoses and brake calipers? Do the front rotors have a even swept clean surface from proper brake pad engagement? I do agree with the above, the friction material needs to not be so hard or you will lose braking. These trucks do best with a semi metallic that has low filler material which promotes brake pad friction. Ironically Ford still sells pads for these trucks and they also make one of the best semi metallic pads. The pads are part number BR52. Have you done a overall brake inspection including the booster?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,845
Likes: 2,352
Fluid flush isn't a bad idea but it's not going to solve your problem unless you have air in the system . it's like changing your oil because you don't have any power.
If your pads and shoes are good and the rear brakes are adjusted correctly it's time to check the booster and the vacuum to it.
I don't recall on these boosters but there is a cup type seal that goes between the booster ( in the front of the booster ) and the master cylinder usually. if this gets to old or someone tosses it you will absolutely have a hard to push pedal. it creates a vacuum leak when the pedal is applied. it took me a year to discover and fix this on a K10 I have. of course your booster could simply be shot as well.
If your pads and shoes are good and the rear brakes are adjusted correctly it's time to check the booster and the vacuum to it.
I don't recall on these boosters but there is a cup type seal that goes between the booster ( in the front of the booster ) and the master cylinder usually. if this gets to old or someone tosses it you will absolutely have a hard to push pedal. it creates a vacuum leak when the pedal is applied. it took me a year to discover and fix this on a K10 I have. of course your booster could simply be shot as well.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Fluid flush isn't a bad idea but it's not going to solve your problem unless you have air in the system . it's like changing your oil because you don't have any power.
If your pads and shoes are good and the rear brakes are adjusted correctly it's time to check the booster and the vacuum to it.
I don't recall on these boosters but there is a cup type seal that goes between the booster ( in the front of the booster ) and the master cylinder usually. if this gets to old or someone tosses it you will absolutely have a hard to push pedal. it creates a vacuum leak when the pedal is applied. it took me a year to discover and fix this on a K10 I have. of course your booster could simply be shot as well.
If your pads and shoes are good and the rear brakes are adjusted correctly it's time to check the booster and the vacuum to it.
I don't recall on these boosters but there is a cup type seal that goes between the booster ( in the front of the booster ) and the master cylinder usually. if this gets to old or someone tosses it you will absolutely have a hard to push pedal. it creates a vacuum leak when the pedal is applied. it took me a year to discover and fix this on a K10 I have. of course your booster could simply be shot as well.
There are also a few easy tests you can do to assess booster function, just throw it in Google. Stuff like: apply pressure to brake pedal with engine off, then while still holding it down turn engine on, and see what the pedal does. It should sink slightly.
Good luck!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
I agree, save the brake fluid flush for when you're bored. Or at least wait to do that last, at such time when you believe satisfactory braking power has been restored.
About 70% of the stopping power is achieved by the front axle disc brakes. What often happens with the rear axle, is they are not serviced regularly and are no longer doing much of anything, particularly as the self-adjusters no longer take up any of the lining wear as they are designed to.
I'd start with inspection of the rear axle brakes and make sure everything is properly adjusted manually, with a new spring kit, and maybe shoes, and even drums if necessary. 30% is a lot less than 70% but every bit helps when it comes to stopping power.
Then, when the drums are squared away focus your attention on the front axle hot and heavy and get those discs plussed up and everything setup according to Hoyle.
About 70% of the stopping power is achieved by the front axle disc brakes. What often happens with the rear axle, is they are not serviced regularly and are no longer doing much of anything, particularly as the self-adjusters no longer take up any of the lining wear as they are designed to.
I'd start with inspection of the rear axle brakes and make sure everything is properly adjusted manually, with a new spring kit, and maybe shoes, and even drums if necessary. 30% is a lot less than 70% but every bit helps when it comes to stopping power.
Then, when the drums are squared away focus your attention on the front axle hot and heavy and get those discs plussed up and everything setup according to Hoyle.
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