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Over drive light flashing

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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 02:23 PM
  #16  
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lonewolf_
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OK test light and jumper wire.... the check engine light is not active in our trucks for code reading.

you still need to do WOT to get Valid codes when doing KOEO self test.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 02:34 PM
  #17  
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also you want the AC off as it can give a False code 67.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 03:07 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
OK test light and jumper wire.... the check engine light is not active in our trucks for code reading.

you still need to do WOT to get Valid codes when doing KOEO self test.
so I just redid the code reading and did everything you said. And I got these codes in order

26 23 26 23 1 29 62 67 29 62 67
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 04:50 PM
  #19  
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and code 26 is is Trans oil temp out of range, so still sounds to me like electrical issue ... I assumed you cleared codes before running the engine to operating temp before pulling the codes again.

 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 09:49 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
and code 26 is is Trans oil temp out of range, so still sounds to me like electrical issue ... I assumed you cleared codes before running the engine to operating temp before pulling the codes again.
I don’t even know how to clear the codes. And I haven’t even ran the engine yet
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 10:12 PM
  #21  
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OK.. I got ya...

I think the first thing I would do in your case is Disconnect the Batteries for about 10 minutes this will Clear the codes in the PCM

then hook the batteries back up .... then turn the Key to the RUN position and see if the OD cancel light is OFF (this is normal state)
then you could press the OD Cancel button to see if the Lamp comes on (it should come on) then press the button again and the Lamp should go out.

this has just verified all codes are cleared.

then Start the Truck and warm it up and verify if the OD cancel lamp comes on or not.

at this point IF there is no Faults then you can do a Test Drive around the block.

IF the OD Cancel Lamp comes on before you get a chance to test Drive then Don't do the test drive.. pull the codes again and hold WOT while you pull the codes and let's see what you get, Then we can go from there.

When I get a chance I'll send you my E4OD trouble shoot Guide it is too large of a file to post in the forums.
Mark may also see this Thread and Chime in.

EDIT: sent you a link in PM to the troubleshoot Guide it also has the schematics that you may need.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 11:28 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
OK.. I got ya...

I think the first thing I would do in your case is Disconnect the Batteries for about 10 minutes this will Clear the codes in the PCM

then hook the batteries back up .... then turn the Key to the RUN position and see if the OD cancel light is OFF (this is normal state)
then you could press the OD Cancel button to see if the Lamp comes on (it should come on) then press the button again and the Lamp should go out.

this has just verified all codes are cleared.

then Start the Truck and warm it up and verify if the OD cancel lamp comes on or not.

at this point IF there is no Faults then you can do a Test Drive around the block.

IF the OD Cancel Lamp comes on before you get a chance to test Drive then Don't do the test drive.. pull the codes again and hold WOT while you pull the codes and let's see what you get, Then we can go from there.

When I get a chance I'll send you my E4OD trouble shoot Guide it is too large of a file to post in the forums.
Mark may also see this Thread and Chime in.

EDIT: sent you a link in PM to the troubleshoot Guide it also has the schematics that you may need.
okay so i did everything you told me to do and everything worked fine. I was able to test drive it and get new codes.

23 23 1 29 29
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 01:06 PM
  #23  
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ok the code 29 is low VSS signal

you might want to check the wiring from the PSOM to the PCM
what the code is saying is that at some point during operation the Vehicle Speed Signal is dropping out.
PSOM= Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module ...have you noticed if it has been reading erratic ?

code 23 is the FIPL sensor or TPS that is mounted to the Injection pump
you did mention that shift points didn't seem correct so you will want to inspect that circuit.

That code "1" is probably just a separator as it is not a Valid ECC-IV code.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 01:30 PM
  #24  
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after really thinking about it im starting to think in some way my tps is bad. i dont know for certain though

EDIT: so if there is anything i want to check first its my tps. i just dont know how to test it.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 01:33 PM
  #25  
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I sent you a PM that has the link to my Trouble shooting guide ..the proper procedure is in that guide.
 
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