Alright so I’m curious as to what the problem can be. My overdrive light is flashing. It’s stuck in not overdrive and the transmission is making weird noises to the front. The noises are hard to explain. And I already know that the overdrive light is saying it’s throwing codes but I haven’t read them yet. Just curious as to what could be the problem. I recently had the transmission overhauled and whatever the problem is the guy should fix It. Just curious

 

I just checked the codes and I got and I quote “23, 23, 1, 29, 62, 67, 29, 62, 67”

 

sounds like you have wiring issues with that truck.

 

well I guess so but yesterday was the day it started flashing and it started flashing a little while after I took it to the car wash. Could water have messed it up?

 

I just checked the codes and I got and I quote “23, 23, 1, 29, 62, 67, 29

1 ?
23 TP sensor out of self test range
29 insufficient input from vehicle speed sensor
62 is nothing but
63 is tp circuit below minimum voltage

67 Neutral/drive switch open or A/C on
67 Clutch switch circuit failure
67 MLP sensor out of range or A/C on (E4OD)

These came from a Chilton and the manual covers both gas and diesel. Im not sure if these codes cover both. I would imagine they definently dont both have all of them

The EEC-IV system has fail safes in the PCM
Failure mode effects management. FMEM This processor substitutes a fixed value for the missing sensor signal. The engine will continue to operate, although performance and driveability may be noticeable reduced this function of the controller is sometimes referred to as the limp in or fail safe mode. fix the missing signal to remove vehicle from mode.

I believe its your TPS. Disconnect TPS FRom SIG to RTN (.34 volts - 4.84 volts.) idle to full open throttle.
Thats also according to Chiltons
I have seen and recorded these .88-3.8 volts

and also another member says #2 • Jul 28, 2009
Here is the TSB......

A/T - E40D FIPL Sensor Trouble Shooting & Adjustment

TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 186A

TRANSMISSION: E4OD

SUBJECT: FIPL troubleshooting & adjustment procedures

APPLICATION: Ford

DATE: Jan 1994

E4OD
FIPL Trouble Shooting & Adjustment Procedures (Diesel Applications Only)




Poor transmission performance and/or premature transmission failure may be caused by a defective Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL) sensor, or sensor signal. The sensor is located on the Fuel Injection Pump (Figure 1) and is used to inform the Transmission Control Unit Assembly (computer) of throttle position.

Ford Motor Company recommends that the FIPL be checked or replaced every 50,000 miles. However, it is possible for a FIPL sensor to fail at less than 50,000 miles. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you install a new "upgraded" FIPL sensor when a transmission overhaul is performed on any diesel applications.

You should also be aware that early design FIPL sensors are not as desirable as late design sensors.

Another potential concern is that the wiring harness leading to the FIPL sensor may be broken or shorted to ground. Closely inspect the harness where it is routed across the top of the engine to the FIPL sensor. The natural vibration of a diesel engine can easily wear through the wiring insulation where it contacts the engine, brackets, etc.

Note The voltage specification for signal return (item 2, page 2) was incorrect on the original bulletin. Remove original # 186 from your files and replace it with this revised bulletin. # 186A.

Note For testing and adjustment information see following information.

TESTING THE FIPL SENSOR

Note During these tests the negative lead of the voltmeter MUST be connected directly to the negative battery post and the computer and FIPL harnesses must not be disconnected.



1. Wire A is reference voltage sent to the sensor from the computer ORANGE/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be approximately 5 volts.

2. Wire B is the ground path from the FIPL sensor to the computer BLACK/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be volts?? or less.

3. Wire C is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the FIPL sensor . TEST With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF and the throttle at idle position, voltage should be approximately 1.2 volts. With The throttle fully open, voltage should be approximately 4.5 volts. ORANGE/WHITE (CENTER WIRE)


The sweep from 1.2 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at full throttle should be smooth. A meter with a snapshot or min/max capture mode is useful to catch intermittent "opens".

If the previously described range cannot be attained, FIPL adjustment can be achieved by rotating the sensor (on its bracket) one way or the other until the voltage values are satisfactory.

POST WARNING. double check everything I say because my TPS has issues too and they are super sensitive. take the time to get it perfect. and once you find out what perfect is. let me know PLEASE. Im just about at the point where im gonna just solder a potentiometer onto the line and adjust till its good then epoxy it inplace.

 

that's a good possibility..

 

alright woah thats a lot of information, but if im not mistaken what your saying is that my tps might be at fault and i should check to see if its actually the problem?

 

so if im not mistaken you are saying that the tps might be the reason why its doing the things its doing? and that i should check to see if the tps is working properly?

 

my last post was about water could have caused it ... I didn't see that long post before I posted but it is somewhat Flawed

 

after reading through this section of your post I have gotten very confused on how your supposed to pull the voltages. first of all I do know I'm supposed to have negative side of voltmeter on the negative side of the battery but I don't know where I'm supposed to put the positive side of the voltmeter. do I put it on the pigtail male side of the connector or do i put it on the pins in the actual sensor? another thing is that I don't know which wire is which because the color has been worn of the cables. they all look brown. all I need is just some clearing up of some things to understand it.

 

62 is converter clutch slippage... it's not Nothing....you did say the tranny was making noise up front.
code 23 can be set IF you didn't hold WOT while collecting Codes... code 63 can be generated the same way.
code 29 is insufficient VSS signal
Code 67 is the MLP sensor on the side of the Transmission that can be affected by water or bad connections
no telling about code 1 as it does not exist so maybe you read that wrong

 

when the overdrive light started flashing yes i did hear some weird noises coming from the front of the tranny.
also what do you mean if i didnt hold WOT while collecting codes? what WOT
also while i read what that guy posted it mad me believe that the tps or fipl could be part of the problem. because i did notice that it shifts kind of odd.
maybe it could be both the tps/fipl and the mlps are bad
but then i remembered that when i had the transmission overhauled the guy replaced the mlps or used the one that was good that i just bought not too long before
i just figured out what WOT means, man im dumb. and no i didnt hold the throttle open while i collected codes. should i try to recollect codes with the throttle wide open?
another thing since the whole od light flashing started friday on saturday i started it up and i didnt hear noises from the tranny. even when i revved it. and before like on friday i would only hear the noise from the tranny if i revved it.

 

WOT = Wide Open Throttle

 

what are you using to read the codes with?

the old manual method or are you using a scanner ?

 

i just use a test light since i think my check engine light bulb is out.