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I wouldn’t pull my Toy Hauler TT across the yard without WD hitch using my Excursion (V&B code springs). But the dually could care less.
Biodiesel has less energy per gallon. Definitely reduces MPG some over diesel.
Similar to winter blend fuel. Less energy = less MPG.
That said, I don’t see much difference in straight vegetable oil in MPG or HP. (I’ve had several veggie trucks on the dyno and had opportunities to compare VO to D2.)
Whatever that Loves blend is the truck doesn’t like it. Smoky at idle and low engine speed. Bad throttle response and giddy up and noticeably less miles per tank. Go fill up at the other place and it immediately gets better.
What didn’t you like about the 19.5” wheels and tires just out of curiosity? I’ve been on the fence about that one myself.
Whatever that Loves blend is the truck doesn’t like it. Smoky at idle and low engine speed. Bad throttle response and giddy up and noticeably less miles per tank. Go fill up at the other place and it immediately gets better.
What didn’t you like about the 19.5” wheels and tires just out of curiosity? I’ve been on the fence about that one myself.
No ‘biodiesel’ still meets the ASTM standards when it gets to the pump. I learned enough making B100 to not recommend it to anyone.
The 19.5’s are HEAVY. Maybe 2x the weight of steel 16” wheel/tire combo. Like, my gimpy body can’t lift one with a big tire on it into the bed of my truck myself. That’s a deal killer! They are also STIFF. Ride quality is definitely diminished. I also didn’t like the ‘sucked in’ look from different offset.
My biggest motivation was originally tire life/economy, but with F450/550 knuckles - we can run the significantly bigger brakes up front and *I think* I can swap the F450 rear hubs on my truck and get bigger rear brakes too.
Now, 20” dually wheels are available. Not only are these much lighter, they are 8.25” wide too, so they look good with wider-than-stock tires. The 285/70/19.5’s look too fat on 6.5” wheels... There are LOTS of tire sizes and types for 20” wheels and you can find like new take-offs CHEAP if ya don’t mind the highway tread many guys remove as soon as they leave the dealership. 20’s are very common in the newer trucks. I almost pulled the trigger on 20’s at this last tire replacement - but ended up just going with 255/85/16’s again. At the time, I was spending all of my extra $$ on a construction project and could not justify the extra $$$ up front for wheels.
No ‘biodiesel’ still meets the ASTM standards when it gets to the pump. I learned enough making B100 to not recommend it to anyone.
The 19.5’s are HEAVY. Maybe 2x the weight of steel 16” wheel/tire combo. Like, my gimpy body can’t lift one with a big tire on it into the bed of my truck myself. That’s a deal killer! They are also STIFF. Ride quality is definitely diminished. I also didn’t like the ‘sucked in’ look from different offset.
My biggest motivation was originally tire life/economy, but with F450/550 knuckles - we can run the significantly bigger brakes up front and *I think* I can swap the F450 rear hubs on my truck and get bigger rear brakes too.
Now, 20” dually wheels are available. Not only are these much lighter, they are 8.25” wide too, so they look good with wider-than-stock tires. The 285/70/19.5’s look too fat on 6.5” wheels... There are LOTS of tire sizes and types for 20” wheels and you can find like new take-offs CHEAP if ya don’t mind the highway tread many guys remove as soon as they leave the dealership. 20’s are very common in the newer trucks. I almost pulled the trigger on 20’s at this last tire replacement - but ended up just going with 255/85/16’s again. At the time, I was spending all of my extra $$ on a construction project and could not justify the extra $$$ up front for wheels.
The more I think about it the more it sound like a bad idea. Aside from the exorbitant cost is the fact the truck was not designed to run that wheel and tire size and would probably cause more trouble than it fixed. I’ve got the 16” steel wheels on the steer axle (~35 lbs) and a heavy duty all-steel ply tire (~50lbs according to Bridgestone) and it already rides bad enough. I think when those are dead I will go to a lightweight setup. The aluminum wheel only weighs around 20 lbs and the lightest tire Bridgestone makes I would use is around 40. A hefty 25 lb difference in unsprung weight that should make the front end ride better. There is a company that makes a reproduction stock style aluminum wheel for about $200 apiece. Guys on EBay want ridiculous money for an original 16” Alcoa... like $400-500 (no way.)
The more I think about it the more it sound like a bad idea. Aside from the exorbitant cost is the fact the truck was not designed to run that wheel and tire size and would probably cause more trouble than it fixed. I’ve got the 16” steel wheels on the steer axle (~35 lbs) and a heavy duty all-steel ply tire (~50lbs according to Bridgestone) and it already rides bad enough. I think when those are dead I will go to a lightweight setup. The aluminum wheel only weighs around 20 lbs and the lightest tire Bridgestone makes I would use is around 40. A hefty 25 lb difference in unsprung weight that should make the front end ride better. There is a company that makes a reproduction stock style aluminum wheel for about $200 apiece. Guys on EBay want ridiculous money for an original 16” Alcoa... like $400-500 (no way.)
As far as ‘the truck being designed for it’, the 19.5 is stock (with 225/70/19.5 - 32” tall tires). The ride quality is less about the weight of tire/wheel and more about the stiffness of the tire. The 12-14ply tires take up to 110psi and are the opposite of ‘supple’.
The 20” dually wheels I think I want are ‘bigger’ than stock and I would run a taller/wider than stock tire (35x12.50). The hillbilly in me likes a ‘big truck’ - but big truck won’t fit in my 7ft garage door, so my truck remains stock height (for over 350k Miles now, lol)
I have a truck here with 16” Michelin LTX’s on it. Besides having the lowest traction of any tire you can buy, they ride like a dump truck. You can literally feel every crack in the pavement.... My Cooper ST MAXX and the AT3’s I’ve put on several trucks have 100% better ride.
For the towing thread, I had to rescue my son. He built the Chevy from at least (3) trucks (3/4 frame, 4wd and manual transmission swap, etc). He was on his way home from 800mi round trip to buy an 80’s diesel VW Golf. He was an hour from home on the way back and had electrical problems (no power to ECM?). He spent all day trying to self rescue before I went to pick him up.
Also, this is the 7.3 truck with the miserable Michelin’s.
Just dragged the dump around the site today. Waiting on a towing tune since I bought the truck used and I know it’s got a Tune on her but I don’t know what it is so I’m not dragging anything big or far.
I’ll have some pics in a week or so getting back to side work and dragging a John Deer 3005 on a little deck over trailer.
As far as ‘the truck being designed for it’, the 19.5 is stock (with 225/70/19.5 - 32” tall tires). The ride quality is less about the weight of tire/wheel and more about the stiffness of the tire. The 12-14ply tires take up to 110psi and are the opposite of ‘supple’.
The 20” dually wheels I think I want are ‘bigger’ than stock and I would run a taller/wider than stock tire (35x12.50). The hillbilly in me likes a ‘big truck’ - but big truck won’t fit in my 7ft garage door, so my truck remains stock height (for over 350k Miles now, lol)
I have a truck here with 16” Michelin LTX’s on it. Besides having the lowest traction of any tire you can buy, they ride like a dump truck. You can literally feel every crack in the pavement.... My Cooper ST MAXX and the AT3’s I’ve put on several trucks have 100% better ride.
For the towing thread, I had to rescue my son. He built the Chevy from at least (3) trucks (3/4 frame, 4wd and manual transmission swap, etc). He was on his way home from 800mi round trip to buy an 80’s diesel VW Golf. He was an hour from home on the way back and had electrical problems (no power to ECM?). He spent all day trying to self rescue before I went to pick him up.
Also, this is the 7.3 truck with the miserable Michelin’s.
Funny you say that. I have LTX and they are WAY better than the AT that were on it. Would have to look back to see what they were. Like wife even noticed a difference. Odd. Even run them on my daily commuter Toyota and never had an issue.
you ought to drive some run flats like on my wife’s minivan... they are terrible. Loud too
Ive used gold *****, copper bbs and airsoft bbs from my 4x4 days in 39-44" tires. Settled on airsoft bbs. Last set of 38" tsls on re-centered hummer double bead locks rode quite nicely with 8oz bbs in each tire.
Because towing thread- havent done much heavy towing with the 2003. Mostly light stuff.
I have alot of experience with all types of loads. Even dumb ones. Heres a couple. This trailer weighed 9200 and back hoe was little over 17k. 6th gear wasnt very usable under 65.
I tried to get away from contruction a few years and drove a truck for someone for awhile, then for myself. all pulling flatbed loads of all sorts
Ya i just muddied up a 7.3 thread with a dodge and freightliner
one more for good measure- i kind of like a "big dumb load" theme
Specs on the Ram? That must have been grossing around 35-36k with that backhoe on. Don’t think I’d ever try that much with mine. Maybe a 550 with a ZF6 and 4.88 rear could handle it okay.
Nice looking Classic XL Shaker too. I like those old school dashes on those.
3500 pickup with 5.9 and G56, 3.73 rear. Helix 2 cam, efi live tuned and 362/65 with 12cm housing on a 2nd gen center dump manifold. Little over 500 to wheels and lots of burned up clutches. It actually pulled really solid but had to stay out of 6th to keep turbo spooled at two lane road speeds. Trailer had 12k axles and the larger brakes helped.
3500 pickup with 5.9 and G56, 3.73 rear. Helix 2 cam, efi live tuned and 362/65 with 12cm housing on a 2nd gen center dump manifold. Little over 500 to wheels and lots of burned up clutches. It actually pulled really solid but had to stay out of 6th to keep turbo spooled at two lane road speeds. Trailer had 12k axles and the larger brakes helped.
That’s a good reliable workhorse. 5.9 common rail with the G56.
Yeah 3.73 isn’t ideal for serious towing. That is what I have in mine and OD is a little lazy with any decent weight on. If there’s a stiff breeze coming at you forget it. Between 55 and 65 is kind of no-mans-land. 1:1 doesn’t comfortably like to run any faster than 55 and OD doesn’t like anything much slower than 65. Whatever would get the truck to run 60 at 2000 rpms in OD would be better IMO. Either 4.10 or 4.30. Can still go 65 if you wind it up a little higher but would give a little better leverage at lower highway speeds.
