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Well I was hoping to not have to rebuild the engine yet but it seems like I might have to. It looks like this is where all my oil has been going, just from how wet the intake is. There are even little pools of oil in the boot to the turbo.
Well I was hoping to not have to rebuild the engine yet but it seems like I might have to. It looks like this is where all my oil has been going, just from how wet the intake is. There are even little pools of oil in the boot to the turbo.
If it's not hazing white, or puffing blue smoke I'd just run it for now. You can buy a whole lot of oil for the cost of a rebuild.
Well im not for sure exactly where the leak is coming from because there was a lot of oil and caked on dirt all over the turbo/intake connection tube. But the CDR valve did have a lot of oil around it, under it, and inside the intake where the CDR valve connects there was oil basically flowing out. But I suppose it could be the turbo leaking ad it is spreading back up to the CDR valve.
On another note, trying to get down to where the boost gauge would connect to the intake I found multiple tapped connections. Ive tried to take pictures of them to show and help me try to figure out what is connected to this intake.
There is copper tubing coming from the firewall (gauges) to a "T" connection on the drivers side of the intake. The other side of this "T" connection has another copper line that runs around the back side of the turbo to the drivers side to a black box that I think reads snow performance(I've got my hand on the black rubber tubing that connects the copper line to the black box. On the passengers side of the intake there is a red tube connected that runs over to the passengers side then down to the frame and under the passengers door to connect to some sort of pump maybe? From this pump a line runs across to the drivers side and up into the bed of the truck with the leaves, into a stainless steel take. I was told this take was used to haul water. I dont think it was....
I got the compression tester from Harbor Freight and will see if I can get my glow plugs out to test the motor. Also I think lonewolf could be on to something with the turbo being the leaky problem. How would I test the turbo? Or would I have to just rebuild the turbo? Also I figure the water injection stuff probably isnt working because that tank is completely dry so the pump is probably burnt up. So Im thinking of pulling it off and plugging the intake.
If you do need to rebuild your turbo I want to say that last time I checked the rebuild kit from banks was something like $250, Any reputable turbo shop should be able to rebuild it for you but if you want to go that route these guys rebuild the banks turbos and upgrade them to last longer as well. They also have some extra options for upgrades.
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