By your picture, id say its just a tick overfull. 2qt add mark, definitely not a stock or factory turbo. qt/200 miles is very excessive if not leaking, would be able to tell something is up even if its burning it. Meaning if the guides and / or rings were that bad it would have terrible compression, and / or oil in the exhaust. Most often with that much oil loss its a seal in the turbo. 6.9s do chew on the valves a bit more than the 7.3.

Tach sensor is most likely the wires broken where the come out of the sensor next to the oil fill. As for pyro that could be broken wires, poor connection where they screw together at the thrermocouple, or the thermocouple itself.

I cut little notches in my dipstick at the full / add marks to help see them.

 

Actually quite the opposite, they used a different style valve seal, and no seal on the exhaust, just a splash shield. So while they may burn more oil due to this, it has nothing to do with it being a 6.9 as much as it does as having no seals.

Several people have gone seal less on the valves when turbo. (I think macrobb was one of them here) They're not really necessary when the intake system sees little to no vacuum.

I think the theory is, let them get a little more oil by running seal less and even if they drink a little between changes, the extra lubrication will prolong the life of the guides considerably.

It's also speculated the 7.3 only got seals on the exhaust valve due to emissions standards.

My last revision international manual for the 6.9 only mentions using bigger style oil shields on the exhaust valve. I just left them bare but did put the seals on the intake one as it can potentially see some but little vacuum at idle.

Not calling you out by any means, just adding some information to the topic, and if you have any additional information please feel free to share.

 

Seem to recall the issue with the 6.9 was chewing the tips off the stems, which is what created the rocker change over in 87, but this doesnt make sense. Guides are going to wear pretty much regardless.

 

I was under the impression it was due to the two different metals in the early rocker arms that wore funny and were just in general weaker.

Both my old 85 motors had the late style (87+) when I opened them up but this 86 motor had the early style. The valve tips looked fine and so did the rockers. Nothing seemed off to me.

I used the late style because I use my vgt turbo as an exhaust brake and also upgraded to the comp 910 springs. If it was stock na I would have run the early style since they had less miles on them.

 

Hello Everyone and sorry for the taking so long to get back you guys. I only get to rifle hunt once a year so I take what I'm given. Almost a full two weeks and didnt get anything. Bummer. But I did buy a new gun.

Anyways You guys were right that the oil is not getting into the radiator fluid and the previous owner must have just topped of the over flow before I took it. But I am still using/burning/losing oil faster than I think I should. Up to my Fathers to hunt and back is around 300+ miles and I had to put in probably 2 quarts of oil. I did check the blow-by by setting the oil fill cap over on the spout and I would say there is a significant amount of blow-by. The intake would be the other option of where I could be losing oil correct? Where specifically would I look in the intake to tell? Just unbolt where the air filter goes or go deeper?

Also I have been working on making the pillar mount for the EGT and Boost gauges so I havent been completely slacking. Just dont judge my craftmanship too hard when you see the pictures. lol its a working progress and my first time.

A little fleece, Fiber glass, Sanding, Bondo, Sanding, Sanding, crying, and then sanding.

 

to measure Blow by you need to remove the CDR and plug the valley pan then you place a Calibrated Orifice on the oil filler neck and read that pressure with either a Mamometer or a Magnehelic differential pressure gauge... if it reads 6" or less then you do not have excessive blow by.

flipping the oil cap is just a good way to get a lump on yer head when it jumps into the fan.

Nice job on making the PODs probably faster than 3D printing them too

 

I take it I'll have to make this calibrated orifice? No chance in Autozone or Napa?

 

yeah probably.... this is what I use...




there are some DIY adapters on the internet ... I've posted links to them before

 

You can also DIY a manometer with cardboard and clear tubing

 

yepper I agree

 

Well it might not be pretty but ill make something.

 

here is a link that may help you https://www.powerstrokenation.com/th...ng-tool.72557/

 

for my a-pillar pod, I just bought a universal 3-gauge pod, and used a heat gun to make the plastic a little softer. Then I pressed it up against my existing pillar plastic and screwed it down. Looks decent.

 

Update Time! I finished the driver side pillar pod and have installed it and the gauges. But upon installing the gauges I noticed that the boost line coming from the intake to the boost gauge had oil coming from it. So digging into the intake I am seeing oil in the air box and it looks like its coming from the CDR valve. I know the CDR valve has a reason for being there but maybe it isn't working properly??? The oil coming from the CDR valve is a lot. Enough to make it to the boost gauge line and out the other end. So I didn't connect the boost gauge all the way to the intake just yet because I'd like to figure out what to do about all the oil. I don't want to fill my gauge with oil. Help would be greatly appreciated here because all I can think of is trying to delete the CDR valve.

Also I was told that everything was original on the motor and that everything is factory. lol.... In the last picture here, are those ARP head studs???

 

Yup those are arp studs. If you clean the top of the stuff off with a wire brush they should have arp stamped in them. For whatever reason the 6.9 set comes with six point nuts where most are 12.

Oil from the cdr is normal. International used a positive pressure crank system on these and as it gets older you get more and more blowby. Easiest way to tell the health of the engine is to go to harbor freight and get a 30$ diesel compression tester, I had to file the adapter down to get it in there with the injector lines on but other than that it worked great.

300psi minimum, 350+ prefered. Some 6.9's made 500 psi...

Test with the motor up to temp if you can. Cold numbers aren't really important unless it's becoming a bear to start.

Cdr is just like a spring loaded valve so if the filter gets clogged the vacuum will close it off so you don't suck up oil and have a run away.

Changing mine on both my old motors made zero difference in oil amounts in intake. I rebuilt my engine with really tight ring gaps to prevent this exact problem.