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Drum brake issues

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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 08:03 PM
  #31  
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Been there, done that. Hopefully that should fix your issue. Good luck!
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 09:02 PM
  #32  
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Hard to say with repop brake shoes but most of the time the shoes are the same except for the length of the lining. therefore it could have a minor effect on brake performance but it wouldn't cause the problem you have. another couple inches of lining doesn't make it out of round. that said, if they were made sloppy it's not impossible they couldn't be out of round enough the extra lining wouldn't allow them to center. but it's unlikely.

If it sits for a while without touching the brakes does it fully release ? if so it could be a residual valve problem .
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 09:50 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
Hard to say with repop brake shoes but most of the time the shoes are the same except for the length of the lining. therefore it could have a minor effect on brake performance but it wouldn't cause the problem you have. another couple inches of lining doesn't make it out of round. that said, if they were made sloppy it's not impossible they couldn't be out of round enough the extra lining wouldn't allow them to center. but it's unlikely.

If it sits for a while without touching the brakes does it fully release ? if so it could be a residual valve problem .
I see what u are saying. It sat overnight and I tried to put the old drum on today but it was still too tight.
Now that they have had pressure on them from bleeding and driving a few blocks, would compressing the wheel cylinder make any difference? It acts like either the wheel cylinder is pushing it out at the top or the cross bar is too long. Which shouldn't be unless the groove that it goes in on the shoe is not right because it is the original cross bar.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 10:20 PM
  #34  
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From what I can see it the pictures the only obvious thing is you do as has been said have both rear shoes on one side. the other thing that's noticeable but not necessarily a problem is the lining looks extra thick . if the steel core is designed for that thickness of lining then fine, but what if it's a screw up ? the adjuster screw looks new, is it possible it's too long even fully screwed in ?

One thing I've found over the years when using imported parts made by people earning 3 fish heads a day is this, take nothing for granted. when you're convinced you've done nothing wrong it's time to question if someone else did.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 10:31 PM
  #35  
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I bet swapping in the correct shoes fixes it. I think that where the e-brake cross bar fits into the shoe (where your red spring is) lets it suck in just enough with the proper front shoe. I think the cut outs (?) for the bar are a little deeper on that shoe or it is positioned to give clearance.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 10:59 PM
  #36  
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Maybe, but the cores look to be the same, if so it will make no difference. but the front shoe needs changed out anyway so hopefully it will cure it.

The crossbar should have no pressure on it. the spring is to keep it from rattling around, if you can easily wiggle it then you can rule it out .
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 11:33 AM
  #37  
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Flip the bottom blue spring around it looks like the long part of spring loop should be on the shoe side. Pictures show coils rubbing on the inside of the shoe.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 12:05 PM
  #38  
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Ya, the cross bar is not loose at all, no wiggle.
Maybe switching the shoes will help but it will be a few days since i have a cold and not wanting to work in the rain.
The picture is an illusion, lol. Its not actually riding on the shoe. The spring can only go one way because of the way the ends are bent. But thanks for looking out.
Im so tired of having to buy Chinese crap. Are there any good US manufacturers making aftermarket parts like brakes? The old drums I took off had Ford stamped into them but also Made in Mexico.
I also must add that, the other day when i was messing with the parking brake, i noticed that the foot lever will not compress. Frozen rusted cable? Would that have anything to do with my problem?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 01:57 PM
  #39  
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Maybe. Try disconnecting the cable from the parking brake lever. Make sure the lever is all the way back. See if that makes a difference.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 05:21 PM
  #40  
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Finally caught a break in the weather and had time take another look.
I feel like an idiot but u were right twoodworth77. Both fronts on one side and both rears on the other side. Dont know why they would have packaged them that way but I will definitely double check next time.
Put it all back together and worked ok. The one side was still a little off center but it worked. I could still feel some drag when I drove it but that is probably to be expected with new shoes and drums. The drums were a little hot on my return but not too hot.
Thanx for all of your help.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 10:29 PM
  #41  
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You have two longer secondary shoes in the one brake. The one on the left in your pictures should be a shorter primary shoe. I bet the other side rear brake has two shorter primary shoes in it. Look closely at post 17, even though the picture is of the other side, note which shoe has a shorter lining at the top, it's the one on the parking brake transfer bar end with that spring.

Left Rear

Left Rear

Right Rear
 
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 04:37 AM
  #42  
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The drum brake trivia geeks would find this interesting. Differing lengths of lining material on the front and rear shoes are part of the Bendix "self energizing" design.

The rear shoe actually does most of the work, it isn't an equal force applied on both sides as you might think, when braking the rear shoe sort of gets jammed up catawampus (precise techical term) and multiplies the braking force to the drum for a given pedal pressure.

Thing is I couldn't even get primary and secondary shoes for my 64 for the rear axle, all the aftermarket suppliers just supply identical length linings. They also used a thicker, harder lining material for the rear shoe back in the day.
 
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