I'm having a few problems with my truck but one sorta major one popped up a few days ago. I'll try my best to give you specifics on it.

Basically if you get on the brakes to hard the left rear locks up. I noticed a smell when I checked it out a few times, but I'm not sure whether it was the tire or the brake. It seemed to be much more touchy after they were warm. It didn't seem to lock up any quicker on gravel than asphalt.

OK, that's the problem now here's some possible causes. About a week ago I had to drive through quite a bit of deep water. About two months ago I had my fronts replaced. Mechanic "cleaned up" the rears but said there was hardly any wear on them. He said he had adjusted them so they would brake a little harder.

So is this a simple deal where I could just spray some of that brake junk in or is there some real damage that needs repaired? I will have a junker in a few weeks so I could work on the ranger, but until then I use it for a paper route and I really don't want to take it into the shop if I don't have to. Could I undo whatever adjusting my mechanic did? My last fronts lasted 55k and I'm plenty happy with that.

Thank you anyone for your help. I found a few threads already that I though might be relevent, but nothing much specific other than just a whole brake job. I'm hoping it's not that considering I was told they were barely worn so recently.

BTW 2000 Mazda B3000 3.0 w/58000 miles

 

Your mechanic may have adjusted the shoes a little too close to the drum on the left rear. If you try to remove the left rear drum, and can't get it off, or it is hard to remove, you probably have found your problem. You can adjust them yourself, with a screwdriver and brake adjusting spoon, if you know how to use them, or do the following.
Remove the drum if you can, and if you don't know how adjusters work, and find the 'star wheel' down at the bottom between the two shoes. It turns a threaded shaft to increase the distance between the shoe lower ends, and crank the shoes closer to the drum. You want to turn the shaft to reduce that distance.
To do that, you hold the adjuster away from the star wheel, and turn the wheel in the opposite direction of the way the adjuster would turn it. The adjuster 'picks up' when you apply the brakes backing up, and then pushes down on the star wheel tooth when you release the brake pedal. (clockwise when viewed from the aft end of the vehicle. given that the adjuster is mounted outboard. Left rear. Counter clockwise on the Right Rear)
This is the same process you would do with the drum mounted, but it is hard to do thru the adjusting slot.
tom

 

If the drums come off the back without backing off the adjuster then they are not to tight. Jack up the rear and see if you can turn that wheel if it is really tight then yes the shoes are to tight and need to be backed off. The correct adjustment is so you can just barely feel/hear the shoes drag and I mean just barely. The wheel should basically turn free. If it is free and the drum will come off without a lot effort my idea would be you either have a wheel clyinder leaking brake fluid or the axle seal is leaking rear end fluid. Which will definitely cause that brake to lock up early. You could have an emergency brake cable stuck. But that causes the brakes to drag and eventually burn up the linings and yes that would have a hot brake smell. As would a brake that is to tight. Unless there is a problem with the brake system or you ride the brakes or panic brake all the time the rear shoes on these late model trucks will usually last in the neighbor hood of 100000 miles. Ford has had some trouble with the axle seals leaking on there 7.7 8.8 10.5 rearends

 

Try this if the drum won't come off - insert an ice pick or similar tool thru the adjusting slot, and "feel" for the adjuster, then push it back from the star wheel. Then using the adjusting tool, rotate the star wheel. If it gets tighter, you're going the wrong way. After a few turns of the star wheel, the drum should come off. ..... If you can't figure out how to do it, try taking the opposite drum off to get a look at the mechanism.