Hello all I am new to this forum. I recently bought a 2006 F150 with a 5.4 V8 Triton. My truck is currently throwing these codes P0020 and P0010. I think the solenoids are good and my problem might be the electrical connection to the VCT solenoids. The locking portion of the electrical plug that plugs into the solenoid is broken on both (bank 1 and 2). I think it's a bad connection/short that is causing the codes to pop up. Anyone have an idea on how to fix this? Do I just buy two new plugs and splice them together with the old wiring? Also when testing the solenoid with a meter what is the electrical range I am looking for? Thanks in advance!

 

Your VCT solenoids are sourced with +12 volts on their Red/Yel wire (Pin 1), from Fuse 32. Each VCT is actuated by the PCM pulling its Pin 2 to ground in proportional - 'duty cycle' pulses. The PCM can 'see' the +12 through the VCT coil, and sense current drawn in the circuit when actuating the VCT. Those codes say the PCM does NOT see the 12 volts, or sense current draw in the circuit. Verify 12 volts on Pin 1 and continuity of the circuit through the VCT coil to Pin 2, and all the way to the PCM connector.

If you measure Ohms in the VCT coil, it probably would be fairly low ohms (Ie maybe 10 to 20 -- IDK). But continuity AT ALL is good enough.

 

So I have 12 volts in the electrical plug that connects to the solenoid and I have continuity in both solenoids. Not sure where to go from here... Is Bank 2 the one on the driver's side? If so do you recommend just replacing the solenoid?
I should also add I don't seem to be having any issues with the engine. It's not idling rough or anything.

 

1. Bank 2 is the passenger side(right bank).
2. If you have the time, removed the valve covers and check if the filters on the VCTs are clogged with diets. If they are not, you'd be better off, replacing them both.
3. Did you performed the resistance test also?
Pls could you do us a favour, and compared your resistance values of the new and old VCTs, just in case you buy them?

 

* * * R E D . . . LIGHT * * * . . . * * * C A U T I O N * * *

Passenger side (right bank from front seat) is BANK 1

P0010 and P0020 indicates the PCM cannot 'see' the circuit being complete. It is unlikely the 'coil' inside BOTH solenoids would go 'open' or 'shorted' at the same time. Make sure the PCM plug is clean and seated good as well as all wiring having continuity and no shorts.

 

P0010 turns out it was just a pending code. P0020 was the only stored code. Cleaned both connections and now only P0020 comes up. Just to clarify are you saying Bank 2 is the passenger side?

 

NO SIR. BANK 2 is Drivers side - whether you're looking from front or back of vehicle. Passenger side is BANK 1.

If the code (P0020 - Drivers side) is the only one you have --- it could potentially be bad coil inside the VCT solenoid. But it is circuit / electrical oriented.

 

Thanks for the info. Guess first plan of attack is replacing the solenoid and go from there.

 

https://www.engine-light-help.com/fo...ine-light.html
Google

 

BULL$|-|it . Quote from first few lines "Below you will find the most complete list of Ford trouble codes available." And the damn list doesn't have ANY codes below 1000. That includes P0010, P0020, P020x, P030x, P035x and a trove of other Ford Codes.

Check before you post!!!!

 

Make sure you solder in new connectors for vcts, do not use twist connectors, you can finish taping or use heat shrink. Use heat gun on heat shrink not good to use a direct flame on heat shrink .Same for all cop connectors ,you can get sets of eight on line .
If f150t red lights it- you can believe him . He is our best .

 

Replacing vcts is a good maint procedure. So is an engine flush to get that dirty oil deposits out of engine, screens and small passages get blocked . Some of us do an engine flush every oil change ,I do one every other one , walmart type .

 

I "Green Light" engine flush. Like redfish says at least. I actually push the envelope further. I actually prefer to poor a quart of flush {(Motor Mechanic) or any good strong flush} in the full operating temp engine about 50 miles before the close of the day before oil change. Drive gently last 50 miles. (This gentle driving exercises RETARD / phasers / VCT the max running the cleaner through VCT and valve body screens). Let the truck set overnight - marinating any sludge. Crank and idle to warm up next morning (5 - 10 min), then do oil/filter change.

I acknowledge this is contrary to all instructions and cautions on the product. But I made it to 212,000 before my timing job and 50,000 since doing it every oil change.