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I’ve got a broken injector connector on cylinder #7. The injectors only have about 20k miles on them so I’d rather not replace the entire injector. I ordered a new connector from RiffRaff and see a few videos online on how to replace it. Once I get the oil rail off and the connector out would it be possible to replace the connector without unbolting the injector? I’ve read horror stories of hydro locking and bending rods after a injector swap so I would like to avoid removing the injector if possible. If not what is the best way to avoid hydro locking?
You could if you really wanted to.
<yself I would pull the injector and do it where if I dropped something
there is no risk to it being down into the engine,
I replaced 1 injector about a year ago. It's not hard and I didn't have a problem with hydro lock. Just make sure you don't over torque injector bolt and when you put fuel rail back in you set it down squarely on injectors and torque properly. Diesel Tech Ron has a good video on it.
Kinda what I was thinking too. May see how much space I have and how much slack I have in the injector harness. Do I need to replace the injector seals/o-rings if I do pull the injector? Obviously this is a good time to replace the standpipes and dummy plugs. Would it be ok to replace just the passenger side and not the driver side since Im not tearing into the driver side? The injectors were replaced by the previous owner so I’m not sure if the standpipes and dummy plugs were done or not.
I replaced 1 injector about a year ago. It's not hard and I didn't have a problem with hydro lock. Just make sure you don't over torque injector bolt and when you put fuel rail back in you set it down squarely on injectors and torque properly. Diesel Tech Ron has a good video on it.
It would definitely be easier to replace the connector with the injector out. Did you do an oil change after? I’ve seen a few people recommend it after changing the injectors but don’t know how important it is. I just changed the oil like 500 miles ago.
I just tore it down, I did driver side so it was much easier than passenger side. And removed fuel rail and replaced no. 2 injector, put all back together. Had batteries charging, and just fired it up. I think it run rough for first few minutes then settled in. It took a few minutes to get the air out. Runs great today.
And yes I would put new orings in.
Thanks. I just ordered new Alliant injector seals and will probably go ahead and replace the passenger side standpipe and dummy plug with the OEM update ones.
Anything else I should know or do while I’m in there? Pretty aggravating problem with a not so simple solution. But it beats a $250 injector.
That stand pipe might be an issue getting out. It might separate while removing. There are some other posts on here on removal of passenger side stand pipe. And the tools and tips to make it easier.
