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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 08:56 AM
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Trouble with shifting

Hello and thanks for reading my post. We have an E450 shuttle bus with the Triton V10 that we use to haul kids around for our club. Because of COVID we haven’t used the bus since last February. After sitting for several months I took it out yesterday. Here is my new problem:
—When accelerating in Drive onto the freeway the transmission will only shift up if I lift off the gas and then feather acceleration. If rpms get high it shifts down and I need to do it again.
—This doesn’t happen when I put the transmission in second. The van shifts normally from first to second.
—There was no fluid leak and fluid levels are correct
—The transmission shifted fine before it sat

I have done a lot of reading but I am hoping one of you knows what has happened. Thank you!
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 10:57 AM
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I wanted to add that the fluid smells burnt

Originally Posted by Fred Heisel
Hello and thanks for reading my post. We have an E450 shuttle bus with the Triton V10 that we use to haul kids around for our club. Because of COVID we haven’t used the bus since last February. After sitting for several months I took it out yesterday. Here is my new problem:
—When accelerating in Drive onto the freeway the transmission will only shift up if I lift off the gas and then feather acceleration. If rpms get high it shifts down and I need to do it again.
—This doesn’t happen when I put the transmission in second. The van shifts normally from first to second.
—There was no fluid leak and fluid levels are correct
—The transmission shifted fine before it

I have done a lot of reading but I am hoping one of you knows what has happened. Thank you!
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Fred Heisel
I wanted to add that the fluid smells burnt
That may point to your first step. When was the last time the fluid was changed? You might want to to a full "gentle" fluid change. Find out the capacity of your transmission, get that many quarts of fluid, plus 3 more quarts. Drain as much fluid as you can through a cooling line, measure how much that was, and replace with new fluid. Drive it around to let it circulate. Repeat this until you get through about half the new fluid, then drop the pan to replace the filter. Then refill and repeat until you've used up all the new fluid.

Unless you drop the transmission and drain the torque converter, each time you drain the fluid from the lines or the pan, you only drain about 3-4 quarts. This repeated drain and fill will slowly replace most of the old fluid with new. Hopefully this will help the transmission work better. If not, there may be other problems that will require some real work.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 12:14 PM
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Thank you for reply. I believe the main clue is that it was fine, then sat for six months, and then wasn’t. What can happen during sitting that would cause my problems? I looked at all the wiring I could easily see and I see no evidence of mice, but I haven’t seen everything.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 01:28 PM
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Just wild guesses; maybe accumulation of condensation? Do you live in a high humidity area? Maybe some valve or solenoid got stuck from sitting for extended periods, especially with old burnt fluid. That's why it's worth changing the fluid.

I hear that the newer models with OBD-II can provide error codes from computer controlled transmissions if you use a Ford specific reader. Unfortunately, that is beyond my experience.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 08:09 PM
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The best way to start is to get the codes read. The places that read codes free CANNOT read these codes. The cheapest (and probably the best) way is to download Forscan free at www.forscan.org. You'll also need an ELM327 adapter to plug into the OBDII port. I bought one from Amazon for less than $30.

Once you have the codes we can help diagnose what's wrong. Without knowing what the codes are all I can tell you is that something is wrong.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
The best way to start is to get the codes read. The places that read codes free CANNOT read these codes. The cheapest (and probably the best) way is to download Forscan free at www.forscan.org. You'll also need an ELM327 adapter to plug into the OBDII port. I bought one from Amazon for less than $30.

Once you have the codes we can help diagnose what's wrong. Without knowing what the codes are all I can tell you is that something is wrong.
I have a reader ordered and I have an appointment with a transmission shop on Wednesday. Hopefully I can cancel that appointment after I fix it myself.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 08:44 AM
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I got the code reader and I have no codes. I tried two different apps and nothing. Could sitting for six months make valves stick? If so, would some trans cleaner and a full change fix this? Thanks for advice.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 05:27 PM
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What code reader did you get? Were you using Forscan?

I never recommend adding chemicals to the transmission. In my opinion, if you add a trans cleaner to your trans, make sure to have enough cash on hand for a new transmission. You'll need it.

Changing the fluid may help. Here is how I recommend doing it: https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...-transmission/
 
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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 06:00 PM
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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 06:01 PM
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I bought that one. FORScan did not connect to it but two others did. No codes.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 06:03 PM
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I used you method to replace fluid and it is still having a hard time shifting. The pan was clean as a whistle but the the fluid smelled like burnt tar. It is pretty pink now.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Fred Heisel
I bought that one. FORScan did not connect to it but two others did. No codes.
I don't know if those apps can read Ford transmission codes or not. A good way to find out is to unplug a transmission sensor and see if you get a code for it. The TRS on the driver's side of the transmission is easy to reach.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 07:19 PM
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Thanks for trying to help Mark. I’ll remove that sensor in the morning and see if a get a code.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2020 | 05:43 PM
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I have found my problem. The Catalytic Converter was plugged. Apparently this caused the computer to not call for shifts. I removed the cat and it runs like a beast while straight piped. Runs great now with new cat. Thanks for your help!
 
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