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FICM Sync 😢

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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 10:53 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by tfunk88
So, truck is acting up again. Started right up this morning. Drove to the gym. At the gym a little over an hour and now it won’t start. No cam sync. IPR cycle is at 45 while cranking, so I’m guessing not a high pressure oil leak. How bad is the cam sensor to change out?
I'll track down a write up on the cam sensor and post in a little bit.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 11:06 AM
  #17  
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From: West by God Virginyuh
Originally Posted by bismic
From what Ed told me, a failing FICM can cause a no-start when hot, but resume its normal function with only just a little cooling. Also, I have a very lightly used FICM (International) that I want to sell. Only been used as a troubleshooting spare. PM me if you are interested.
PM sent! And I sent it to you and hopefully I’m at enough characters now
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 11:17 AM
  #18  
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From: West by God Virginyuh
Originally Posted by bismic
From what Ed told me, a failing FICM can cause a no-start when hot, but resume its normal function with only just a little cooling. Also, I have a very lightly used FICM (International) that I want to sell. Only been used as a troubleshooting spare. PM me if you are interested.
Yeah, I figure it prob has something to do with letting it cool a bit. Yesterday it took about 20 min with the hood open. The not having cam sync leads me to the cam sensor, correct?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 11:20 AM
  #19  
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Not necessarily. Cam/crank sync normally comes from the crank sensor (as does the engine rpm signal). FICM sync normally comes from the cam sensor (or from within the FICM itself).

Unfortunately I am not sure how concrete these "normally's" are.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 11:27 AM
  #20  
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From: West by God Virginyuh
Originally Posted by bismic
Not necessarily. Cam/crank sync normally comes from the crank sensor (as does the engine rpm signal). FICM sync normally comes from the cam sensor (or from within the FICM itself).

Unfortunately I am not sure how concrete these "normally's" are.
Dangit! Why can’t this be easy??? 😜

A cam sensor is $50 and doesn’t look difficult to do, so I’m gonna put one in this afternoon. The one that’s in there is just over 4 years old. Hopefully that takes care of it! If not I’m thinking FICM
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 11:28 AM
  #21  
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Our 6.0 was similar. When warm it would not show FICM sync until it cooled. Also had a code for cam sensor, so we replaced it. Worked fine for a few months then it started again, and at that time also replaced the pigtail. No problems since that time.
But on a side note, we had starter failures that occurred at about the same time as the sync issues. We didn’t confirm starter rpm, but wonder if the starters were beginning to fail and cranking too slowly to get sync?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 11:42 AM
  #22  
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Nice post xcrsp440. It would be good for him to closely inspect the cam sensor wiring harness and connector.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 12:04 PM
  #23  
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From: West by God Virginyuh
Originally Posted by xcrsp440
Our 6.0 was similar. When warm it would not show FICM sync until it cooled. Also had a code for cam sensor, so we replaced it. Worked fine for a few months then it started again, and at that time also replaced the pigtail. No problems since that time.
But on a side note, we had starter failures that occurred at about the same time as the sync issues. We didn’t confirm starter rpm, but wonder if the starters were beginning to fail and cranking too slowly to get sync?
Thanks for the info! Mine is cranking at close to 200rpm, so I’m leaning towards cam sensor/FICM issues
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 12:04 PM
  #24  
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From: West by God Virginyuh
Originally Posted by bismic
Nice post xcrsp440. It would be good for him to closely inspect the cam sensor wiring harness and connector.
Will definitely take a close look at the pigtail to see if it’s oil soaked or any damage
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 02:10 PM
  #25  
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There is a good write up someplace on this site on replacing that pigtail. It is foil shielded and isn’t just a snip and replace chore. A bit more work on it.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 02:38 PM
  #26  
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From: West by God Virginyuh
Originally Posted by xcrsp440
There is a good write up someplace on this site on replacing that pigtail. It is foil shielded and isn’t just a snip and replace chore. A bit more work on it.
It’s ALWAYS a bit more work when it’s something I have to do... 😂
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 08:58 PM
  #27  
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You can use aluminum foil to replace shielding if needed. It needs to contact the original shielding, though.

When building custom audio power cables, I used heat shrink tubing with an aluminum coating on the inside. It shields quite well.




 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 09:35 PM
  #28  
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Found the write up
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html

And the cam sensor replacement is fairly simple, but ours was a real problem. The bolt head is 10mm and rounded off on the initial attempt to unscrew it. Make sure you use a good 6point socket.
We finally got it out by whacking it loose with a long bladed screwdriver against the bolt edge and hammering on it.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 04:24 AM
  #29  
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Ed had an exchange program that is for people that can't be without there truck.

 
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 07:16 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by xcrsp440
Found the write up
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html

And the cam sensor replacement is fairly simple, but ours was a real problem. The bolt head is 10mm and rounded off on the initial attempt to unscrew it. Make sure you use a good 6point socket.
We finally got it out by whacking it loose with a long bladed screwdriver against the bolt edge and hammering on it.
I would not only solder. For such jobs there are crimp connectors that solder automatically when heated and seal the ends with glue.
The connectors are first crimped and then heated with a hot air dryer.
 
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