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Starting issue ***Still broken after module replacement***
2007 F250 5.4l
Starter cranks for 4-6 seconds and then clicks and nothing. Key off and back to start will do the same thing. Usually it starts in the first or second attempt. Occasionally it takes a third.
I have no idea why it takes that long to start but my main concern is that it only cranks for 4-6 seconds period. I assume the click is the starter solenoid popping off but I don't know for sure..
No codes present.
Battery voltage is at 12.4v with the car off and 14.2v average (observed 14.1v-14.3v).I think this is on the low end for resting voltage but still adequate. First thing I did was wire brush the battery cable terminal clamps and clean the battery posts. Tightened both as well. Starter connections looked pretty rusty. I will clean them up next.
Any other suggestions?
Mike
Last edited by ars_lurker; Oct 6, 2020 at 06:04 PM.
Reason: Still broken after module replacement
Since this is a PCM-controlled starter, I suspect that the PCM is enforcing a timeout period to prevent excessive starter motor run time to prevent overheating. Just speculation, can't find any documentation that would confirm this, though.
I'd be most focused on the "extended" crank time itself which suggests that the engine isn't getting something it needs to fire off immediately. Low fuel pressure is the first that comes to mind. At an initial resting condition where you expect the symptom to be present, try cycling the key from OFF to RUN (not start) several times before finally hitting the START position. My suspicion is that you have a pressure leak-down condition along, perhaps, with a condition that is preventing the fuel pressure from achieving a minimum operating level during the default initial priming cycle.
If your scan tool has live data capability, monitor the output of the FRP sensor to see what the PCM is seeing in terms of reported fuel pressure.
Since this is a PCM-controlled starter, I suspect that the PCM is enforcing a timeout period to prevent excessive starter motor run time to prevent overheating. Just speculation, can't find any documentation that would confirm this, though.
I'd be most focused on the "extended" crank time itself which suggests that the engine isn't getting something it needs to fire off immediately. Low fuel pressure is the first that comes to mind. At an initial resting condition where you expect the symptom to be present, try cycling the key from OFF to RUN (not start) several times before finally hitting the START position. My suspicion is that you have a pressure leak-down condition along, perhaps, with a condition that is preventing the fuel pressure from achieving a minimum operating level during the default initial priming cycle.
If your scan tool has live data capability, monitor the output of the FRP sensor to see what the PCM is seeing in terms of reported fuel pressure.
Key On Engine Off reading is : 33psi
Key On Engine Running reading is: 39psi
Cycling the key is something I have tried in the past. It doesn't seem to make any difference.
I changed the Fuel Filter a month ago. It was very bad but also made no difference
I will occasionally get a check engine and it will post DTC code p0430 "Catalyst System Effeciency Below Threshold (Bank 2). It lasts a couple starts and then goes away for a week or two. I ran some graphs on the O2 sensors on bank 2. At idle and warmed up, the upstream goes High/Low alternating voltage as expected. The downstream sensor levels off also as expected. I have never caught it on the scantool when it is throwing that code. Would a restricted catalytic converter contribute to the hard starting issue?
It is unlikely that the inefficient cat is causing any starting difficulty. That code doesn't mean they're restricted (although they might also be that), it means they aren't doing the job they're supposed to do.
Book says KOEO fuel pressure should be 53 psi. You're way low. KOER is 39, you're dead on so the regulator function is normal.
I'm still suspecting insufficient fuel pressure at startup.
It is unlikely that the inefficient cat is causing any starting difficulty. That code doesn't mean they're restricted (although they might also be that), it means they aren't doing the job they're supposed to do.
Book says KOEO fuel pressure should be 53 psi. You're way low. KOER is 39, you're dead on so the regulator function is normal.
I'm still suspecting insufficient fuel pressure at startup.
Thank you. I will do some investigation and report back.
I'm wondering if your battery just isn't up to snuff, causing the solenoid and starter to pull high current. I know you said it was 13's resting and 14's running, but did you do a load test to see if its pulling below 10V, that could cause your solenoid to heat up quick...Just a thought though.
I'm wondering if your battery just isn't up to snuff, causing the solenoid and starter to pull high current. I know you said it was 13's resting and 14's running, but did you do a load test to see if its pulling below 10V, that could cause your solenoid to heat up quick...Just a thought though.
I can have the parts store do a load test on it today. It is actually 12.4 or 12.3 resting. My internet searches say that is 50-75% charge. It will charge to 100% on my battery charger but it falls back to 12.4 as soon as the truck runs off it. Regardless, it spins the starter pretty quickly. I have it on the list for replacement before winter starts in earnest. I could bump that up the schedule if necessary.
Looks like I should replace the boots or something also if I do spark plugs?
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