2004 (early build) 255K .I know very little history, bought it not running! Previous owner said he did blue spring, ICP sensor, Air charge elbow tube, and a new alternator. Codes 603, 649, 673 1000 were present but cleared them and only 1000 returned. Put in a new starter ( original had ONLY one good bolt in it One ear was broken off, one was loose and one bolt broken) There was/is no fuel/coolant in oil (changed it anyways), no oil in coolant. no gas in diesel etc. back of motor & tranny is thick with leaking oil

Ok I been watching hours and hours of Ron (and others) but my EXACT issue not showing up in any similar but not exactly....
1. 2 plugs are unplugged (near oil filter are charger tube) don't see what they go and no matching within reach. SEE PIC


2. Cranked and started for about 30 secs stumbled badly (sounded like multi cly not just one), then it died and no start but still cranks. Can duplicate this after a few mins of waiting - Starts runs rough then dies quick and no start.
3. FICM sync (1.0), ICP V (.02-<2), FMP V(48-49), IPR % (14-28) all good on "torgue pro app" (edit: HPOP 500+ to 1100+)

******4. Buzz test on "car guage pro" ALL 8 failed, got the intital long buzz but ZERO single buzz's??!!

5. When I check fuel pump by removing filter cap, turn key on fuel runs back out quickly, in one of Ron's vids when he removes filter the bowl stays full???

Waiting on billet fuel cap (ron's video recommendation) to test fuel pressure and two new fuel filters to arrive saturday, but buzz test has me WORRIED (all 8 Inj?)

ANY HELP GREATLY APPRECIATED!













ANY help GREATLY appreciated THANK YOU,

 

Looks to me like throttle body plugs. Icp volts are low with probably means low oil pressure.
post icp pressure, on tourqe it says hpop psi.

 

your oil cap looks after market to. Make sure the Wright filter is in it. I would buy new oem cap and filter.

 

hpop starts around 500s and climbs to 1100s

 

is wrong alternator Missing something there?

 

looks like throttle body is missing but was driving w/o beforehond....
took apart HFCM and was surprisingly clean inside but pieces of heater fell out so left it unpluged

ANYBODY ANY IDEAS WHY #4 in first post above?

 

What do you mean on the ICP volts post? (ICP V (.02-<2))
The 1100 psi may not be a real number depending on what you meant by the above.

If you aren't getting any individual injector buzzing, then it very well be a FICM issue.

The EGR throttle body being disconnected isn't an issue. The new HFCM's no longer come with a heater (it isn't needed).

 

Icp v is .2 key off while cranking climbs to 1. something
Pic is key off as I have fuel lines off doing a ballon test (passed)

KEY OFF!

 

Between 1 to and 2 ICP volts is a big range, but if it was 1.5 volts (or close), then that is about 1100 psi. Probably the ICP sensor is ok.

Next I would see if you are getting a Fuel Pulse Width command when cranking.

 

Is that in torque pro never heard that one.

1._ fluctuated around why I said under "<2" couldn't nail it down to a real number.

Tomorrow fuel secondary filter cap with fitting suppose to here to check fuel psi.

Yeah the Buzz test has me in twist never seen nor heard one do like that.

 

Torque Pro calls it:

Fuel Injector Pulse Width
Short Name: FIPW
PID: 221410
Units: ms
Max/Min: 6.0/0.0
Equation: ((A*256+B)*.008

 

To answer this question, Ford later added a trap to the fuel return to keep the bowl from draining. You've got an early motor so no trap, this is normal.

 

My 2006 drains down also. It is probably a leaking fuel return line reed valve (sometimes called a duckbill valve or an antisiphon nipple)

 

My 2004.5 bleeds down also.