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what happened to simple maintenance on these trucks.. ?? the engineer that designs this **** should be REQUIRED to change a 100 of them in the driveway like we do.. bet that would simplify some of the stupid thing they make..
was there not a new o'ring on the drain plug cap?? i have not done one so it does not make sense to me. on mine i drain the bowl, unscrew the cap, wrestle out the filter, clean out bottom of bowl, use fuel on o'rings insert on post pushing down, put new beveled oring in grove, reinstall cap and tighten,, and then KO several time 5-6 to purge air and good to go..
Originally Posted by jfralph
Just want to thank everyone who chimed in. I finally brought it to the dealership, and $225 later I have a running truck. Turns out the o-ring on the drain plug (which was replaced with new cap) was bad. Just took a lot of looking to determine that. Then, according to the service writer, They needed to purge the high pressure side due to so many tries at starting it. BTW, All filters in this truck are MOTORCRAFT only. Just to alleviate my Paranoia! Just a good rule of thumb from here on out, is lube the O-ring with chassis grease as well as the top portion of the cap. But only after diligently cleaning cap and threads. I had always been of the believe the system is closed and cleaning shouldn't be an issue. Wrong, Clean and Lube!!! As someone else mentioned, should have tried the old O-rings just to make sure. FYI, Never did figure out what the extra o_ring was from.
what happened to simple maintenance on these trucks.. ?? the engineer that designs this **** should be REQUIRED to change a 100 of them in the driveway like we do.. bet that would simplify some of the stupid thing they make..
was there not a new o'ring on the drain plug cap?? i have not done one so it does not make sense to me. on mine i drain the bowl, unscrew the cap, wrestle out the filter, clean out bottom of bowl, use fuel on o'rings insert on post pushing down, put new beveled oring in grove, reinstall cap and tighten,, and then KO several time 5-6 to purge air and good to go..
It is pretty simple. He just ran into a slight hiccup. Many here have changed their's with no problems. IMO, oil works better on the threads and o-ring. But some here use grease. Before oil, I used fuel. It went on but it's way easier with new engine oil. But Mr. Murphy is always hanging around somewhere...
what happened to simple maintenance on these trucks.. ?? the engineer that designs this **** should be REQUIRED to change a 100 of them in the driveway like we do.. bet that would simplify some of the stupid thing they make..
was there not a new o'ring on the drain plug cap?? i have not done one so it does not make sense to me. on mine i drain the bowl, unscrew the cap, wrestle out the filter, clean out bottom of bowl, use fuel on o'rings insert on post pushing down, put new beveled oring in grove, reinstall cap and tighten,, and then KO several time 5-6 to purge air and good to go..
So how do you drain your bowl on the 6.7 BEFORE unscrewing it? Inquiring minds want to know.
So how do you drain your bowl on the 6.7 BEFORE unscrewing it? Inquiring minds want to know.
No need for me to drain the water, every 5 tanks of fuel I throw a tide pod in the tank, I figure if it dries out the insides of the people who eat them it should take care of the water in the fuel.