Issue with fuel filter replacement.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 551
Likes: 1
From: SW Montana
Yes, the package came with one green, two blue and a rubber plug for the valve. The blue were on the valve, the green was on the sensor. I replaced them that way. However, I found another green0-ring in the drain pan that is about same overall outside dia. as this green ring, but the ring itself is way finer. Existing ring and one installed is comparable to a 10 gauge wire, while the one in the pan is more like a 16 gauge. don't have a clue where it came from. Or if that is my issue?
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Frederick, MD
when you cycle the key, you are listening for the buzz. Leave it key on until the buzz stops, then cycle the key again. Did you let the buzz stop before cycling? Might be a fuel shut off has tripped. check that.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 551
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From: SW Montana
I am not sure the pump every shuts off. However, I was cleaning up and putting stuff away on several of the cycles, and the key was left in the on position close to a minute each time. I can still hear buzzing, sounding like it is behind the cab, similar to the electric in tank fuel pumps.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 551
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From: SW Montana
Ok, last evening, I took out filter, again, regreased the o-ring, lubed the threads, reassembled the unit in truck, and cycled key one dozen times. Yes, the pump runs for 26 to 28 seconds before it shuts off. In between cycles, I waited 20-30 seconds before switching key back on. Still no start. I then cycled key as soon as I heard pump shut off, for 8 times. So basically other than the 3-5 seconds it took to register pump off and key cycle, pump stayed on for about 4 minutes. Still no start. Frustrating. This should be a routine simple task.
Tuned
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 279
Likes: 14
From: Brookings, SD
With the key on, engine off, the pump absolutely does shut off. Its somewhere around 30 seconds. That's exactly why several key cycles are recommended when priming the fuel system after a filter change. Turning the key on and leaving it only runs the pump for a short period of time, and you need to cycle the key several times to continue priming.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 279
Likes: 14
From: Brookings, SD
Ok, last evening, I took out filter, again, regreased the o-ring, lubed the threads, reassembled the unit in truck, and cycled key one dozen times. Yes, the pump runs for 26 to 28 seconds before it shuts off. In between cycles, I waited 20-30 seconds before switching key back on. Still no start. I then cycled key as soon as I heard pump shut off, for 8 times. So basically other than the 3-5 seconds it took to register pump off and key cycle, pump stayed on for about 4 minutes. Still no start. Frustrating. This should be a routine simple task.
Do you have any means of connecting to the truck with an OBDII dongle? Torque or forscan on your phone would work fine. I'd be curious to see what your Lift pump pressure is as you do these key cycles. You should be seeing at or around 80 psi on a properly primed system if I'm not mistaken.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Texas
EDIT: PS. There is no sense even trying to get it to prime until this is rectified.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2012
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I always put a coat of chassis grease on the o-ring and a real light coat on the top tapered lip of the cap. And I do not recommend any fuel filters but the Motorcraft brand. I've never broken a cap with this method and I've changed over a hundred of these.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: SW Montana
Just want to thank everyone who chimed in. I finally brought it to the dealership, and $225 later I have a running truck. Turns out the o-ring on the drain plug (which was replaced with new cap) was bad. Just took a lot of looking to determine that. Then, according to the service writer, They needed to purge the high pressure side due to so many tries at starting it. BTW, All filters in this truck are MOTORCRAFT only. Just to alleviate my Paranoia! Just a good rule of thumb from here on out, is lube the O-ring with chassis grease as well as the top portion of the cap. But only after diligently cleaning cap and threads. I had always been of the believe the system is closed and cleaning shouldn't be an issue. Wrong, Clean and Lube!!! As someone else mentioned, should have tried the old O-rings just to make sure. FYI, Never did figure out what the extra o_ring was from.