I have a 2012 superduty with the 6.7 diesel. The truck only has 50K miles, and no issues. However, the change fuel filter warning came on, so I opted to do so myself. I had always done it on both 6.0 I owned. Well, the water seperator will not unscrew. Disconnected the water sensor line and put socket on housing and proceeded to twist off end of housing. Ordered a new housing, but still have not been able to remove rest of housing. This is the original filter from factory, It has never been changed. Water has been periodically drained, but filter not. Not sure if factory seals the canister, or if time and elements has caused some corrosion. Have I done something wrong in filter replacement? And will I be OK to reuse the drain valve and water sensor on the new cap if I can ever get the old cap off?

 

I guess at this point, I would try using a strap wrench aound the whole filter housing. Use *SLOW, STEADY PRESSURE* on the wrench........not reefing and yanking.
And myself.......I would be changing filters every 15,000 miles.......lubing the new o-ring with clean diesel fuel.
Good luck

 

it is seized on there. What I always did was to use a socket and wrench as you did, but also put a strap wrench on it and use both at the same time. Maybe you will be able save the plastic housing.

the o-ring has probably long since dried out. At this point I would wait until you have the replacement on hand just in case.

Sensor and stuff can be re-used.

 

I use the socket and strap wrench at the same time and take it slow. I haven't broken it yet but sometimes it feels like I'm going to. Now that I'm not changing filters once per year anymore, I guess I'll find out how stuck it is after 2-3 years. I change fuel filters at 15,000 miles.

 

First of all you are way past the service interval for fuel filters. At the least they should be replaced every 22k however every 15k is recommended. You said can't remove rest of housing? I assume you have already broke the filter housing. I change my fuel filters every 15k and lube the heck out of the O-ring and it's still stuck tighter than hell. Use slow steady pressure on the socket wrench and it will eventually start to move.

At this point I would use a die grinder or a dremel and cut a relief grove in the remaining housing then spin it off with a strap wrench. Be extra careful at the top around the thread area, you don't want to damage those threads.

 

I'll have to check my notes but I believe this last fuel filter change was the first time i used clean engine oil on the threads and O-ring. Tightened up way easier than when I used fuel instead. I forget who, but I'm thinking m-chan a Ford factory tech, recommended oil instead of fuel.

I'm curious to see how it turns off as compared to when I was using fuel. We shall see.

The manual says change by 22.5k miles or every 3rd oil change. I've been watching the fuel pressure PID from the frame filter (DFCM; diesel fuel conditioning module... what you're working on) at the HPFP. I've let my filters go out close to the limit and the average PSI only drops about 2 to 3 pounds. Since I've been letting the truck tell me when to change oil, it's been at least 21k miles.

To get through the last of the Motorcraft 6 gallon Bag in a box 10w30 oil, I'm going to change every 5k miles starting with this last oil change. So I think I will go to a 15k mile fuel filter change interval to keep it simple. I've got Triax 10w30 semi synthetic oil to start using. I'm going to get their full synthetic 10w30 to run after the 5 gallon pail of semi syn is done.

Sorry for the oil tangent... Couldn't help myself...

 

Well, using a pair of large channel locks, and a chain wrench, was able to get housing off. Everything looked good, O-ring is moist and supple. All threads are clean, only some dust on very top above 0 ring. I did clean area very well with brake cleaner, put light coat of synthetic motor oil (all I had on hand) on threads and 0ring, Screwed cap back on, and once 0ring made contact, was able to turn it only another 1/4 - 3/8 turn to allow electrictal pigtail to contact. Now, cant get it to build pressure. Or even pump. I took cap off and put some grease on o-ring, and same thing. BTW, It becomes very difficult to turn once 0ring makes contact. I doublt cap coud withstand tightening it more!

 

there is a *STOP* tang that must make contact when tightening. If you don’t turn ALL THE WAY TO THE STOP, it will suck air and give problems.
EDIT: PS, did you use a new o-ring?

 

I am thinking you are not all the way on. Take the electric connector off and keep going until it hits the stop.

 

I want to say it's a good 2 or 3 full revolutions of the housing once the O-ring is engaged to meet the stop. Don't try to start the engine until it's all the way tight. Then you need to cycle the key half a dozen times before turning the engine over.

 

I recommend 10 full KOEO cycles. I think the book recommends 6 or 8 but mine is still making purge noises at 8 and 9.

 

Like the guys are saying, there's a stop on the top part of the pump and one on the bottom housing. You can use a flashlight to watch when they meet. You'll feel it too. You have to be careful because you can over tighten it and break that stop off.

I forgot to mention about priming but wait until the housing is at the stop. The manual says 6 KEY ON ENGINE OFF cycles to prime the pump. Wait 30 seconds each time. I do it 12 times to be sure. Let us know how you make out. Good luck.

 

I would take the filter off and start over. Reoil the housing and do it again.

 

So, last night I stopped and talked to the local ford dealership, The service writer was, at one time the premier diesel tech. Got hurt and could no longer wrench. I discussed the issue with him, and he told me about the stop, (I wasn't aware of it) Also, he talked about making sure the O-ring is well lubed. lube keeps it from rolling under the cap when tightening it. He also indicated this is a big problem and they replace a lot of caps when they do services. So, per his advice, (similar to what I got here) I pulled cap, put engine oil on threads of cap, and chassis grease on the o-ring. This time, the cap spun up and I was able to hand tighten until it hit the stop. Their is no mistaking the stop!!! Thinking I had the world by the ba!!s, I proceeded to clean the floor, drain the pan, and jumped into truck. turned on key and waited until coil light went out, and my overly tired brain immediately tried to start it. I quickly realized my stupidity, and proceeded to cycle the key 9 times for at least 30 seconds. Still no start. I then repeated the key steps for another 7-8 times with similar results. Not a good batting average here. I just don't know what next step might be. However, I do have a question about 0-rings. When I drained the pan, in the bottom, in addition to lots of broken plastic was a small green o-ring. similar in size to the larger ones installed on the water sensor and drain except finer. When I installed these parts in the new cap, I put two new blue rings and the rubber plug on the drain, and only one new green 0-ring on the sensor. Did I miss one?

 

From this link here:

https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/...rs-trucks.html

It looks like the water in fuel sensor has a green O-ring on it.




https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/...er-diesel.html

EDIT

Did you make sure the filter was fully seated on the cup of the cap ? Sometimes the old green O-ring from the old filter cartridge stays on the top part, if I'm remembering correctly. Something is not right. Take it back off to make sure there are not two o-rings up there for the cap. How long did you crank it for when it wouldn't start after the priming was done?