I have it facing the rear, so that it moves the pin box forward a few inches and then it clears the bed rails, which have the roll-up cover attached to them. I don’t notice any issue with pulling side-to-side. Drove it for five hours yesterday and another five today. Couldn’t have been any smoother.

 

I've had the AUH (along with Demco Autoslider and B&W fixed). If you have a short bed and are tight on payload... then the AUH is a good option. There can still be the ability for nose to meet the cab in a SB with the AUH, depending on nose design, if ground is uneven, etc, but the AUH did me well in my 2500HD CCSB and for a short time in my F350CCSB. BTW - Fort Knox Locks makes a decent king-pin lock for the AUH adapter. The only cons with the AUH (maybe not a con, but was annoying nonetheless) was that many dealers make you take off the AUH adapter - I always had the tools with me, but made the drop off and pick up consume a bit more time. The other was the angle that I had to get the 5er to get over the AUH ball - with these new ford trucks was fairly significant with a lot of popping and creaking. I will say I really liked the Demco Autoslider, it's built like a tank but it rarely left the bed (weights about 300#)... and if you have a long bed, then the B&W fixed is a great option and love that it breaks down into 2 pieces and easily and quickly removed by one person without any tools (have the Ford Puck System).

 

I've got a 8' bed and 2002 dually and air bags.

 

I watched the video on this hitch and I like it especially the steel adapter for the king pin and the self alignment funnel that will self align the ball. How does it fit on the ball and is it a tight fit.

Denny

 

Tight enough. Absolutely no chucking with this hitch. The cup is just a cylinder with a spring loaded horizontal pin that prevents the ball from coming out once you're hitched. Per the manufacturer recommendations, I've coated the ball and cup with Slip Plate graphite paint. I can try to grab a close up pic of the cup.

 

Sure anything is helpful. That's interesting I've never herd of graphite paint.

 

I'm thinking the spray graphite that you use on locks would do about the same thing.

If i was replacing my Reese 20K today I would be giving the PullRight a very hard look plus its all steel and looks to be very well reinforced and the price is right, the Anderson just looks flimsy to me.

Denny

 

Close up view of the cup. I coated the funnel and inside of the cup with graphite paint. You can see the marks in the graphite paint where the ball has slid down the funnel into the cup.

 

One more question, I see you have a SB and it appears that the hitch sets the ball back to allow for the SB but can it be turned around for use on a long box.

Denny

 

Yes sir it can. The piece that mounts on the goose ball can be installed in the forward or rearward position before you set the hitch down on it. As you noted, I have a short bed and have it in the rearward position.

 

is this what you have? The 2600 that attaches to the goose ball connector?

https://www.pullrite.com/2600

do you have the factory fifth wheel prep?

 

Yes I have the 2600, and the factory fifth wheel prep. I have this https://www.pullrite.com/4437 goose ball for the factory prep. I think the Pullrite goose ball is a superior option as it's a solid ball and doesn't have the plastic lever in the top.

 

I'm really considering the 2400 that will mount on my existing rails to replace my 19 year old 20K Resse that's getting looser every year.

In the bottom of the ball socket will any dirt that falls in there be able to fall through or is going to have to be covered when not used.

Denny

 

As you can see in the picture, it won't fall through, but you can just blow it out. I don't see any need to cover it, although my tonneau is usually covering it if not pulling the camper.

 

Awesome. Thank you.