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I'm getting ready to do my 3G upgrade. I thought I would replace both battery cables first with 2ga cable as (I have spare) and military battery terminals. Looking quickly at the existing ground cable it looks like it has a P clip built in that attaches to the frame mid-way and then it attaches to the block. A quick look suggests it is a nightmare to get to the retaining bolt on the block. I'll take a closer look tomorrow.
I need to change the cable as it is frayed at the battery end. I could cut it and crimp a 4ga connector on the end and then put a separate cable from the military connector to the front radiator ground connector. Or I could build a new cable and put a P clip on it where it is retained on the frame. Or I could replace the cable with an aftermarket one that has the P clip built in.
Do I need to remove the fender liner to get to the bolt on the block if I replace the cable?
I'm getting ready to do my 3G upgrade. I thought I would replace both battery cables first with 2ga cable as (I have spare) and military battery terminals. Looking quickly at the existing ground cable it looks like it has a P clip built in that attaches to the frame mid-way and then it attaches to the block. A quick look suggests it is a nightmare to get to the retaining bolt on the block. I'll take a closer look tomorrow.
I need to change the cable as it is frayed at the battery end. I could cut it and crimp a 4ga connector on the end and then put a separate cable from the military connector to the front radiator ground connector. Or I could build a new cable and put a P clip on it where it is retained on the frame. Or I could replace the cable with an aftermarket one that has the P clip built in.
Do I need to remove the fender liner to get to the bolt on the block if I replace the cable?
Not sure what ground you are talking about, so this may not help. But, on both my 302, and 460, a ground attaches to a post on the lower front side of the engine block, both of mine had a stud screwed into the block, and a nut holding the ground on. If you lay underneath it is pretty easy to get to.
Not sure what ground you are talking about, so this may not help. But, on both my 302, and 460, a ground attaches to a post on the lower front side of the engine block, both of mine had a stud screwed into the block, and a nut holding the ground on. If you lay underneath it is pretty easy to get to.
I only took a quick look and tried to put my hand on the end of the cable. Was not easy to get to on my 351. I'll take another look tomorrow in the light of day.
You can get to the block connection from under the truck, but it sucks. The way to do it is with the alternator bracket removed.
FYI you can still get the negative cable new from Ford.
Aha! - So it may be best for me to replace the cable with either an OE one or one I build myself after I remove the current alternator bracket to do the 3G upgrade, as I am installing the newer bracket?
I will likely build one myself as I want to use a military connector on the battery. I guess I could also buy a new OE cable and crimp a connector on the end as an option even though there is little wrong with the existing cable except for the battery end.
I just replaced the negative cable on my '94 460. After disconnecting a trans cooler line to get it out of the way, laying in a puddle of atf with more dripping on my face, and contorting my wrist in at least 3 directions it wasn't meant to move, I realized the bolt holding the lug to the block can be easily reached with about 24" of extensions through a gap between the frame and wheel well liner.
Also, I used generic replacement cables. A 2 ga cable from the battery to the block and then a 4 ga cable from the block to the frame. This eliminated the p clip.
The stock cable does indeed go to a stud on the corner of the block after being strapped to the frame.
Yes the ATF cooler lines run through a clamp that is on the same stud. It is behind the AIR pump with it's lines & under the Alt & boxed in by the frame.
Don't know that removing fender liner would help. It's been a by touch thing for me.
If you replicate it, best make sure you copy that pig-tale that goes to the fender & then on to the main harness & ECU ground.
Might be a good time to replace or work on the positive cables as well. The starter wires are bundled together with the oxygen sensor harness and run along the passenger side of the block. I know on my 94 there was a clip holding them in place mounted to the same stud as the block ground connection. I redid the whole bundle with new abrasion wrap and high temperature wrap. I have a block heater harness in there too. The O2 sensor harness should be removed and given a very thorough inspection. It is known to chafe and cause shorts.
I just replaced the negative cable on my '94 460. After disconnecting a trans cooler line to get it out of the way, laying in a puddle of atf with more dripping on my face, and contorting my wrist in at least 3 directions it wasn't meant to move, I realized the bolt holding the lug to the block can be easily reached with about 24" of extensions through a gap between the frame and wheel well liner.
Also, I used generic replacement cables. A 2 ga cable from the battery to the block and then a 4 ga cable from the block to the frame. This eliminated the p clip.
Reply: Hmm.....still got to get hands on the bolt. I'll have to take a look. 2Ga/4Ga -That's my plan if I build my own cable as I want to use a military connector. P clip just prevents cable from moving out of place. As I am going to be removing the alternator bracket to do the 3G upgrade I will do that and then take a good look.
Originally Posted by Scndsin
The stock cable does indeed go to a stud on the corner of the block after being strapped to the frame.
Yes the ATF cooler lines run through a clamp that is on the same stud. It is behind the AIR pump with it's lines & under the Alt & boxed in by the frame.
Don't know that removing fender liner would help. It's been a by touch thing for me.
If you replicate it, best make sure you copy that pig-tale that goes to the fender & then on to the main harness & ECU ground.
This is what it looks like:
Reply: Replication of ground - Yes of course.
Originally Posted by seschenburg
I'm not sure how you get it over the insulation, or if you have to cut the cable, but you might find these at your local electrical supply house:
Might be a good time to replace or work on the positive cables as well. The starter wires are bundled together with the oxygen sensor harness and run along the passenger side of the block. I know on my 94 there was a clip holding them in place mounted to the same stud as the block ground connection. I redid the whole bundle with new abrasion wrap and high temperature wrap. I have a block heater harness in there too. The O2 sensor harness should be removed and given a very thorough inspection. It is known to chafe and cause shorts.
Good info - Thanks!
Last edited by Gee150; Sep 1, 2020 at 08:50 AM.
Reason: Typo
I just found this Ground Thread which suggests the P clip is in fact a ground to the frame and therefore not just a retaining clip. Subford suggests it is the frame ground used for trailers. So if I build my own battery to engine ground cable I will go ahead and run another one from the battery to the frame. Benefit of military terminals.
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