NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE REPLACEMENT
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 149
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From: Upland, California
NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE REPLACEMENT
Hi, everybody!
I decided to do a little preventative maintenance and found my negative battery cable was getting corroded. I disconnected it from the battery and followed it down to a stripped area of the cable that is clamped to the passenger side frame rail. It looks like the same piece of cable then continued on to another terminal but it has been cut off about 5 inches past the stripped/clamped location. Can anyone tell me the correct location of this second terminal? (By doing a search it seems that the stripped/clamped area is correct and the cable has a Ford part number on it, now I just need to figure out where to go from here). My truck is a base 1985 F250HD, 460CID, C6, 4WD, factory air. The truck is starting and running great, no problems, I just want to get ahead of this before it becomes an issue!
Thanks in advance for your replies!
Dave
I decided to do a little preventative maintenance and found my negative battery cable was getting corroded. I disconnected it from the battery and followed it down to a stripped area of the cable that is clamped to the passenger side frame rail. It looks like the same piece of cable then continued on to another terminal but it has been cut off about 5 inches past the stripped/clamped location. Can anyone tell me the correct location of this second terminal? (By doing a search it seems that the stripped/clamped area is correct and the cable has a Ford part number on it, now I just need to figure out where to go from here). My truck is a base 1985 F250HD, 460CID, C6, 4WD, factory air. The truck is starting and running great, no problems, I just want to get ahead of this before it becomes an issue!
Thanks in advance for your replies!
Dave
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Is the 460 the original engine for your vehicle?
The ground cable should go directly to the engine block. Then a seperate ground goes from the block to the frame. Either by another cable or by the mounts.
On 300/6 engines the ground cable does as you say, and continues to the starter and hooks to the starter mounting bolt, thus grounding the 300/6 engine block that way.
EDIT: Single Battery vs. Dual Battery Confusion...
On other engines with single batteries, the cable from the grounding tab connects to the engine block.
Factory Dual batteries, ground cable from batteries goes directly to engine block. seperate cable to ground frame. year dependant.
The ground cable should go directly to the engine block. Then a seperate ground goes from the block to the frame. Either by another cable or by the mounts.
On 300/6 engines the ground cable does as you say, and continues to the starter and hooks to the starter mounting bolt, thus grounding the 300/6 engine block that way.
EDIT: Single Battery vs. Dual Battery Confusion...
On other engines with single batteries, the cable from the grounding tab connects to the engine block.
Factory Dual batteries, ground cable from batteries goes directly to engine block. seperate cable to ground frame. year dependant.
Last edited by 81-F-150-Explorer; Nov 14, 2011 at 11:42 AM. Reason: Correct error
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
The truck I had with a 302 had the single clamped cable like was described, and the very end bolted to a stud on the front pass side of the engine block.
You will probably not find a cable like the factory one with the stripped area, so you could do the long cable to the block and then the short cable from the block to the frame if you didn't want to strip the insulation and try to re-use the factory method. Stripping the insulation back to raw copper and using the factory or another clamp seems like a good place for corrosion to start.
You will probably not find a cable like the factory one with the stripped area, so you could do the long cable to the block and then the short cable from the block to the frame if you didn't want to strip the insulation and try to re-use the factory method. Stripping the insulation back to raw copper and using the factory or another clamp seems like a good place for corrosion to start.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
My '87 460 has one cable with the little 'flag' lug where it bolts to the frame.
From there it continues to a small (1/4-20?) bolt at the lower corner of the engine block.
The head of this bolt faces the side of the truck.
From there it continues to a small (1/4-20?) bolt at the lower corner of the engine block.
The head of this bolt faces the side of the truck.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 781
Likes: 8
From: Sanford, NC
See if you can get a Motorcraft cable for it. It should be the same as you removed from
your truck. That's what I did about 15 years ago for my truck and it was exactly like
the original one. Mine is a 1981 F100 that came with a 302 which I replaced with a
custom built 351W.
your truck. That's what I did about 15 years ago for my truck and it was exactly like
the original one. Mine is a 1981 F100 that came with a 302 which I replaced with a
custom built 351W.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Upland, California
Thanks for the replies, gents! The engine is original to this truck and lo and behold I found a 1/4-20 (or so) threaded hole at the front lower passenger side of the block with nothing in it! This looks like a very likely place for the cable to continue to given its location relative to the rest of the cable that I still had. Seems like the mystery is solved and I will be heading down to the local Ford dealer tomorrow morning to see if they can still get the cable. If not, perhaps partsguy ed can help out. I'm going to clean up all the connection points, install the new cable and then coat/seal the exposed areas with silicone sealer to keep the corrosion to a minimum.
I guess my only other question now is what I was missing with a ground that was clearly not attatched at all the points it was designed to be hooked up to and what (if any) changes I should look for in the operation of the truck. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Dave
I guess my only other question now is what I was missing with a ground that was clearly not attatched at all the points it was designed to be hooked up to and what (if any) changes I should look for in the operation of the truck. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Dave
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Motorcraft # WC8980
This one should work, as it's the right length, 45" long and has a grounding tab.
The original is obsolete, but this one is really close, but not identicle.
Take the old one with you to compare...
This one should work, as it's the right length, 45" long and has a grounding tab.
The original is obsolete, but this one is really close, but not identicle.
Take the old one with you to compare...
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Sometimes the throttle cable becomes the ground.
But you would notice it smoking when you cranked the starter.
Oh, I would suggest the use of Alox anti corrosion paste or the old purple spray battery post sealer.
RTV silicone is more likely to trap water in the joint than keep it out.
But you would notice it smoking when you cranked the starter.
Oh, I would suggest the use of Alox anti corrosion paste or the old purple spray battery post sealer.
RTV silicone is more likely to trap water in the joint than keep it out.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Upstate NY
Silicone looks impressive at first but will definately trap water after awhile as ArdWrkn has already said. Just smearing grease on the connection will work better than silicone. I put a little No-Ox in between the connector and the block or frame or wherever you may be attaching a ground. I leave the outside of the connection, C and D, Clean and Dry, just like the rest of the exterior of the engine block. At least untill the oil leaks start.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
If used correctly, silicone can be your friend. If not it will be a enemy. I use it for gaskets and things like that.
I suggest using some shrink tubing or black electrical tape. They make a liquid tape as well for electrical.
If wrapped sufficiantly this will not let water into the seam.
You can also use black spray paint. I use this for battery cables and it works quite well.
I suggest using some shrink tubing or black electrical tape. They make a liquid tape as well for electrical.
If wrapped sufficiantly this will not let water into the seam.You can also use black spray paint. I use this for battery cables and it works quite well.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
They make a self-fusing silicone tape that will seal only to itself.
But I would second the liquid electrical tape in this application.
Just brush it on to seal the ends of the insulation,not to try and seal the lug to ground.
But I would second the liquid electrical tape in this application.
Just brush it on to seal the ends of the insulation,not to try and seal the lug to ground.
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