Indubitably and I stand corrected, though I remain curious about the details. I checked and remain persuaded that there must at least be something else there as well as PTFE, just like there is in the PTFE-coated cables, otherwise they wouldn't bend as they do. Let's call it 'Teflon hose' for short, anyways.

There you have it: replacing old lines with new lines and replacing calipers will change things materially no matter what. In this particular case allow me to suspect that the calipers made most of the difference.

Well, obviously, but I have, at this point, driven several SDs with a few different engines. None of them have anything approaching a decent pedal feel and it's not the kind of defect that changing lines will particularly ameliorate. Thus I was wondering, doubly so because replacing regular hoses with new OE hoses vs. high end braided hoses in those German vehicles which do not come with them from the factory doesn't make a perceptible difference. I tried and have the parts on the shelf. The well known German manufacturer which uses them from the factory has a radically different pedal feel, by design (and radically different calipers) thus any elasticity in the rest of the system would be much more noticeable - and the braid they use is Kevlar, not steel.
I will keep wondering

 

David, thanks for the help, After getting a laundry list of things done to our dually, (no hoist, engine hoist/stand, or air compressor at the rental house I am about to move out of) I should be getting it back this coming Mon./Tue. Then I will confirm which ABS I have. Any clue what the extra fitting is for? Does it circulate brake fluid back to the ABS valve block?
I see you use Frozen Rotors, how many miles do you have on them? I am at 53,000 miles, had them turned are 25,000, and they are now pretty wobbly, but found out the rear calipers (or hoses) are seized. I had used OEM FOMOCO pads, but think I will upgrade to Hawk LTS this time.
Those SSBC 8 pot calipers look awesome, but I'm attempting to mitigate some of my expenses right now. I have been known to take this truck on road courses (setup/teardown & broken car retrievals) and just generally operate the truck at a slightly higher level than most would. But can't drop $1k+ just on calipers right now. Hah! With 2 piston floating calipers stock, I would be happy with a fixed 4 piston caliper at a $500 price point. It would likely be plenty enough, until you actually try to do SCCA racing with a dually, which could be fun.

Thanks again,
David L. 2002 F-350 2wd dually crewcab 266,500 miles

 

@krzdave , I know you did not address your brake hose fitting question to me, but I recently traced the dual fitting on the driver side of my 2 wheel ABS 2000 F-250.

I did not see exactly where they ended up because of other parts in the way and not being fully invested into the search. Here is my comment and the thread in which I made that comment.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19533561

All of that said, if David knows that would be a great contribution to the discussion.

 

I have the 5 piece kit from PMF on my truck too. It does have provisions for the vent fitting. Keep in mind the hardline behind fuel tanks can rust out, its in a high moisture area.

 

Their application guide is a touch confusing for these. They seem to be suggesting a different part number for 2wd/4wd trucks? I thought they were the same calipers for 99-04 F350/350. Kind of interested in adding these.

 

I have no clue on the extra port on the brake fitting, just noticed they looked different in the NAPA pics. Mine is 4 wheel ABS controlled by the module and I kinda understand that, but 2 wheel ABS, nah.

I do have Cryo rotors and mine are also throbbing a bit after 30k, more so when warm. I keep daydreaming about getting them turned flat again, but maybe the cementite is too bad. But I am pretty sure I screwed up the cryo treatment when I was doing the brake pad break in. I did a couple extra 70 to 10 hard decels (I enjoy braking) and smelled the pads... got completely stopped with e brake and took a look; rotors were dark cherry red. That is gonna be like 800 900 F and could very well undo any cryo magic. I'm pretty familiar with steel heat treatment (but not cryo) and those temps are where tempering and final hardness are done. I assume cast iron is similar.

FWIW I would not pay extra for cryo rotors again. Maybe slotted, definitely not drilled. My dos centavos is spend money on pads, not rotors.

 

Complete stopping with cherry red rotors = you deposited pad material on the rotors and it's quite possible you'll get a throb [which you seem to have]. If you have pads that need bedding, the first commandment is to cool off the brakes before stopping.

Turning rotors is generally not worth it, TBH. There is no way to do the job properly and shortly afterwards they'll have issues again.

'Cryo treated'... I wouldn't spend the money. And I certainly would not put slotted or drilled rotors on a SD.

Pads are a good place to spend money on. Being careful, because there's a LOT of snake oil being sold and SD brakes are pretty easy to accomodate after all.

 

Apologies for not describing it more fully; after slowing with the service brakes I came to a complete stop using the e aka emergency brake, not the service brakes. On Superduty trucks the emergency or parking brakes are drum brakes located inside the rear rotors. It's possible some brake liner deposited on the hot drums, but that would not be felt using the service brakes. I completed the break in cooldown without coming to a stop using service brakes. The brakes felt smooth for a while after that, but developed the warpage or throb later on. Some unknown braking event or events where I had no choice but stop completely. Re-bedding might be worth a go (and the price is right) but I have not yet found a good road for that since I moved to this area.

 

Understood. The problem is, the pad material will heatsoak from the rotors even if you stop with the ebrake - and it is quite possible (though nobody has given me a wholly satisfactory explanation) to start the process that way and subsequently accumulate enough pad material to develop some vibration.

You could try rebedding or you could try running some violently harsh pads for a few miles, they'll clean the rotor faces and do a better job than resurfacing because they're doing it at operating temp. I do not know if such even exist for our trucks though.

 

I have actually done the SS braided hoses on factory calipers before upgrading to SSBC V8 calipers. The lines made a difference in how much pedal travel there was with addition force on the pedal. The calipers made a difference in how much pedal force was needed to effect a certain level of braking force.

FWIW, I assembled my own lines out of Aeroquip Racing Teflon Hose and used AN fittings at the ends of the hoses. Changing calipers was simply a matter of swapping adapters out.

 

@TooManyToys.

Help'em out brother.