I can't win with this truck.

OK everyone, I need some serious help with this one. I am dumbfounded.

There is a splitter at the end of the Master Cylinder(MC) that goes three ways, one for each front wheel, and then one more line for both rear wheels.
My MC was bad and couldn't be rebuilt(too much pitting), so I bought a new one.

The problem is, the three lines are solid lines that look to be original, so the position you unscrew the splitter is the EXACT position it must screw back on. It looks as though the seal of the threads is held by bottoming out this splitter against the MC casting.

Here's the problem, the position the splitter is in when it has been bottomed out is where it is stuck. The only way to change that is to take the little washer off of the splitter. I even found another washer to take up space.

There was no combo that put the splitter in the position it needed to be to line up with the 3 brake lines. So I got it as close as possible and thought I'd gently bend the 54 year-old lines until they fit.

WRONG. Eventually the line that goes to the back broke. I also toyed with the line that goes to one of the front wheels so much that I don't know what position it was in in the first place, and have since bent it around so much, I'm afraid to bend it anymore, so it's now "stuck" in it's current position(out of fear of breaking it the next time I bend it).


Guys/gals, what can I do? I am honestly lost and have no clue where I can turn to now. How can I make the splitter line up with the lines?

I thought about cutting the last 4" off of each line and converting it to a little section of flex line, is that acceptable? But there is almost too little room to work....
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Now onto my next issue:fixing the broken brake line.

I was told at one time that if you replace a brake line, you MUST replace the exact amount of length, or you will screw up the brake bias to all wheels and cause all kinds of hell.
Is this true?

I was thinking about replacing the line(about 5-7 feet) with a braided flexible line. Is it ok to have that long of a length of flex braided line? Or do I have to go with solid steel line like factory?


Man, that splitter issue....I'm losing hope fast. I don't even know.......

 

Fear not, we can fix it. ;-)

Let's take the second question first. What you've been told is BS. Period. Changing the length of the brake lines will not change your brake bias.

Now, for the hard questions; Do not short cut your brake system. Do not attempt to trade out hard lines for flexable. Do not try to use cheezy adapters to "make" things work. Your brakes are the most critical component on your truck, and the one part you want to work perfectly, every time. If you have any doubts at all about the intregrity of your steel lines, replace them. There are complete, pre-bent kits you can buy, or you can buy generic brake line in different lengths at most any local auto parts store and bend them yourself as necessary. It also might help if you have a proper brake line bender tool to do the job.

 

I think you're misunderstanding how the splitter mounts. There is a bolt that goes thru it -- the bolt is not part of it. The bolt may be stuck in the splitter, so take it over to the bench and knock it out.

 

You're F'ing kidding me.


:facepalm:

Thank you SOO much. Now I just need to find a way to fix that brake line...

 

Head over to NAPA, they have pre-flared brake line in lengths up to 4 ft. Personally I'd replace the whole rear line to the block at the hose connection, may take two pieces.

 

Your only real choice is to replace the broken line with a new one.I don't think anybody sells a single replacement line. You either have to buy a complete pre-bent kit or you can buy brake line in a 25" coil but you will also have to buy a bender and a flaring tool and a tubing cutter. If this is for a 56 f-100, the rear line coming out of the splitter is listed as 73 3/16" in Sacramento Vintage Ford's catalog so that kinda eliminates buying a pre-flared 72" line at Napa and bending it too fit.

 

Here's the break. Not too bad, pretty clean break.



We have another '56 with an identical break system, and the break line that goes to the front passenger wheels has TWO of these little "patches" for an unknown reason.


Would that be sufficient? It looks like as long as it was flared, it'd work and be safe. Opinions?

 

Flaring the broken ends isn't likely to end up well. Don't even think about compression fittings.

It looks like they did to the front what I'm suggesting you do to the rear; measure the total length needed and buy pieces that add up to that. A little longer is better than at all short.

I hate to point it out, but $30 for a manual looks pretty cheap about now, doesn't it?

 

NAPA lists 3/16" in 8, 12, 20, 25, 30, 40, 51, 60" lengths, that I could see. So for 73" total, maybe a 25 + 51 = 76? Add a little for a coupling. Just need to eat up some length with an offset or slightly different routing. The real problem may be getting it with the right fittings.

 

Is there some reason why you'd prefer to go out of your way to half-**** a repair rather than replace a broken and rusty brake line? Even of you don't value your own life, how about the kid running into the street chasing his ball? We gave you the best possible advice. Chances are you'll spend far more time and money chasing down all the fittings you'd need for patches than you would on new pre-flared lengths of brake line. My 2c.

 

Albuq--I already have one. But it doesn't really help with making decisions on repair methods.

52--Good point. But just to put something out there: What's the difference between going to napa and getting two long pieces of line that equal ~73" and putting them together at one point.....and simply putting the two pieces I have together already in the truck? All I'd have to do is get a pipe cutter and cut off less than a cm of pipe(off each broken end) and then flare. The interior of the brake line seems to be not corroded...

This is the second or third time I seem to have ticked a member(s) off by seeming to have ignored their advice.....I am not intending to come off that way. I'm just looking at all of my cards.(I grew up with a dad that was the kind of guy to grab every doo-hicky he had to go about fixing situations like this--and cut every corner possible. Just as long as the problem was "fixed". So go easy, my method of finding a way to solve a problem may not mix well with some, but it's what is engraved in my mind, whether I like it or not. I'm trying to get way from it. Every time he sees me working on my truck(or any of my vehicles for that matter), he tells me there are other ways to do things and I have to tell him to get lost......)
So just because I like to brainstorm doesn't mean I'm blowing any of you off. Please don't be offended.

 

Let's cut the BS - IF IT BROKE THAT CLEAN AND EASILY, THEN IT WAS ROTTING FROM THE INSIDE OUT AND WAS READY TO BLOW OUT UNDER PRESSURE!!!! A good, solid line will kink way before it would just snap off. There are no acceptable patches and those splices are only for joining new sections of pre-bent line or long sections with lots of bends that can't be installed as one piece. Patching that junk you've got would be akin to sitting down in the middle of an interstate during rush hour. Don't jack around here and get yourself or somebody else killed. There is no room for error or marginal parts with a single circuit hydraulic brake system. Whats more, if one of them looks like that, then they all do. Rip every last inch of steel line out of that truck and replace it. Period. Only an IDIOT would take shortcuts on the one and only system capable of bringing a 2 ton missile to a stop. Don't be that guy. Be smart, be safe, and spend the $25 and a couple hours replacing the lines.

 

It was on a corner(already been bent), not a strait piece. And I had been working(bending) with if for 10 minutes until that happened.

Blue--If I replace the rear piece, I may end up replacing the front two. It depends on how hard it will be to mimic all of the twists and turns of the factory pieces.

Guys, I understand I think differently than some of you. I am not ruling anything out at this point.

...But why does it feel I'm being beaten by a mob?

 

I like using what's on hand to save a buck or two but there's no good reason to cut corners here. Solid, relatively inexpensive, SAFE repair options have already been presented. Don't try to MacGyver it. I hate my car when it doesn't start but I REALLY HATE IT when it can't stop. You will too.

Oh, and if the rubber lines are old, crusty, and dry rotted replace them too.

Better to take a 'beating' on here (from people expressing safety concerns) than the beating you will get if your brakes fail.

Please be safe.

 

I think that's the coolest thing I've ever heard about brakes.


I am convinced, I will replace the lines. Start on sunday.

Would anybody have an idea where I could find a solid one piece of line that I could cut, shape, and flare myself to the size I need? I'll give NAPA a call and see if they can't special order me something if nobody has a suggestion.

The NAPa way is great, but I really want to make this one piece.....and can flare the ends myself. I also don't want to waste my money on pre bent, if I can do the job myself.

In other words, a parts store/online place with DIY break line that would come in 73"+ length.

(Does brake line[3/16] come in rolls or in huge strait-line pieces?)