Hey Guys;
Brand new to this site. Here is my problem and any help would be appreciated. I have a 2002 F250 4x4 with 7.3, 189,000 miles. Have always changed oil and filter every 7000 miles with Rotella T6 15w-40, and fuel filter every year. 3 weeks ago my friend and I did a rebuild job on the fuel bowl as truck was dripping fuel on the ground.(all new o rings - blue ones for drain ). He is a knowlegeable mechanic and I am not too mechanically inclined. The bowl was filthy and filter was nasty, turck ran great for 3 weeks. While going thru mountains in SC on a moderate grade the truck sputtered and shut off. Would crank and seemed to be running on a couple of cyls., couldnt run over 1200 rpm and 10mph. Had it towed to a ford dealership to be diagnosed. Mechanic told me it needed 2 injectors and a possible injector pump. $3400 for injectors, $5400 for injectors and pump. I declined , paid $250 diagnostic fee and towed it home(115 miles). My friend and I changed the filter again, and truck ran like a top. We figured some trash had broken loose and landed on some of the injectors. Ran great for 150 miles and died again when pulling a boat up a slight grade. I limped home, bought a Launch X431 Pros Mini diagnostic tool and hooked it up. The code said IPR bad(can't remember the number), replaced IPR with a Motorcraft and cleared the code and truck fired up and ran like a top for 100+ miles, then it died again this tuesday with the boat behind it on a slight grade. Don't want to just start throwing parts at it. My friend and I are going to attack it tomorrow morning. I checked ICP and no oil was on the pigtail. I am new to the Launch Tool, any suggestions would be appreciated. I read where if you do the Injector Buzz test and it passes then the wiring is good, HPOP is good, IDM good, and CPS is good and it probably a fuel problem. I cranked the truck on Wednesday to move it and it ran ragged and would hardly move. No smoke from the exhaust just very rough running. I am trying to fix myself to avoid getting ripped at a dealership. If we can't diagnose, does anyone know of a reputable mechanic near Batesburg, SC? Thanking you again in advance for your responses.

 

Do you have a Fuel Pressure gauge? they are invaluable in a situation like this for eliminating or diagnosing fuel pressure issues. Have you done any in tank mods? Google Hutch and Harpoon mods. There are two screens in your fuel tank, when those get plugged up with debris they restrict fuel flow. The next time the truck stalls or if it’s still in a no start issue now you have several options:

1) remove the fitting from the back of the fuel pump, put a 3/8 inch hose on the back of the pump and the other end of the hose in a 5 gallon container of fuel. Prime the fuel bowl two or three times before attempting to start the truck then start the truck. If the truck starts you have a pretty good idea that the problems are within the tank. If it does not start you need to get a fuel pressure reading, normal fuel pressure is 45 to 65 psi.

2) remove the fitting from the back of the pump, Open fuel filler cap, blow some air back into the tank through the line removed from the back of the pump. This should dislodge the debris from the screens and temporarily solve the problem.

The Hutch mod removes the in tank screens and replaces them with a Racor filter on The frame rail of the truck. You eliminate the steel line between the tank in the rear of the pump with fuel injection hose and only fuel injection clamps. The removes potential air leaks from the suction side of the pump.

Here are some pictures of the mock up of the filter and mounting bracket along with the final working model I came up with.

 

John,
Thanks for the response. I do have access to a fuel pressure gauge. There have been no tank mods and when reading I began to suspect the two screens in the tank. I have seen some posts on the Hutch and Harpoon mods. Will try what you suggested and see where I get. Thanks a bunch. Can't find the pictures on your post but I know what direction to head in now.
Ross

 

Ross,
‘When you drop the tank mark the tank, ring and sending unit, that way when you put it all back together you know you have it at the same tightness it was when you took it off. Do you not see the pictures in my posting?

 

John,
Thanks I will mark it. I can see the pictures now, my work email has a filter and it wasn't letting them through. Thanks again for the info, I'll let you know in a few days what I find.

 

Can you hear the fuel pump humming when you turn the key on prior to starting? It should not be making weird erratic noises. I would also be looking at getting rid of those quick disconnects in the back of the fuel pump if not done already. They are made to seal when pushing fuel and known to suck air when pulling fuel.

 

Been busy, got truck towed home, put fuel gauge on truck in front of pump got 30psi, decided to drop tank. Fuel pump strainer completely gone, both filters clogged up bad. Completed hutch mod today with stainless tubing( took 2 days to locate it). Went to put back together and could not get the big locking ring back on the tank. Fought it for an hour then remembered reading where someone said to boil it in water and it would expand and go on. Boiled it for 30 seconds and it went right on with no problems. Hope to remount tank tomorrow and hook up new inline filter. Bought a new fuel pump to install to remedy any future problems as this one has 189,000 miles on it. Will let everyone know how it goes. Thanks John for the pics and help. Hope to be running in a few days!!!!

 

When you reattach the fuel lines to the tank you can see the ridge on the sending unit coming out of the tank, I pushed the 3/8” fuel injection line over the ride. I used 3 fuel injection clamps there, 1 on the back side of ridge and 2 on the outside. You can see in the picture where I left a loop of fuel injection holes… I actually did that on both sides. That way if you ever have to take the filter off to replace it you simply cut an inch of the hose off, we do not have to drop the tank and put a whole new hose on it. Make sure you use fuel injection hose and fuel injection clamps. I offset them and used 2 on each fitting. Remember that you want to prime the system at least four or five times before attempting to start the truck!

 

Thanks John, got the truck back together last night, used an inline suction filter on the tank side of the fuel pump, psi was 65 in front of the pump. Primed the system 5 times, had to really listen hard as the new fuel pump was so quiet. Truck fired right off, didn't miss a beat. Took it out on the road and it ran great. Will try pulling something this weekend to see how it behaves under a load. Thanks for all the help, couldn't have done it without you!!!!!!!!

 

Glad you got it running and I could help you out.