With my fuel issue resolved - drove it quite a bit today and it’s doing good- the next issue is my A/C. It works randomly, the fan blows fine but the air coming out gets nice and cold and warms back up with no real pattern I can see. Someone posted that FORScan had some A/C testing capability but my Foseal OBD adapter won’t wake up. I went to Dash Boss and found a compressor command monitor so I had that at least. Cranking the truck it almost always works for at least a couple of minutes so watching the monitor, I cranked the truck and it went fro 0 to 145 solid about a second after the truck fired up. I walked around front and watched the compressor with the monitor in my hand and it ran for about 5min and stopped. The monitor continued to read 145 And solid. Turning the A/C off, the monitor went to 0. I let it idle for a couple of minutes and turned the A/C back on, 145, air cooled down, back around front with the flashlight the compressor was running for a few seconds and stopped, again the command signal was still there. I stood and watched it and the compressor turns very slightly, every once in a while. I didn’t wait to see what would happen next but I’m thinking the clutch is slipping. Is their anyway to verify further or is it needed? I realize a logic command isn’t the same thing as an actual voltage supplied, should I put a volt meter on the compressor harness to verify before going further?

I've read about pulling a shim from the clutch, has anyone done that? Or maybe I should just buy a new clutch? If Im on the right track, are there any special pullers or other tools required to deal with this?

 

I've not had the stator in place for some time so I don't remember if it's in the way.

But it easy to alter the shims to change the clearance. I'll hunt.

 

First thread and maybe all you need. The shim kits are everywhere.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16465492

 

Thanks Jack, I found a few posts here on FTE but not a lot of detail. I’ve avoided A/C work in the past, one of the few things I’d take to the shop for lack of knowledge and special tools but this looks like something I might be able to handle IF it looks like the clutch.

 

Yup, just what I needed! and from 2016 even. It looks like close quarters down in there but I’ll make it happen. It sound like there’s a good chance I may have fried it though.Thanks again.

 

From what I remember even before that, I used a square bar to catch the nubs so I could unbolt the center.

 

Eric,

My brother's 2003 CCSB had the exact same type of AC problems with intermittent cold coming from the vents. A shim kit took care of everything. If I remember correctly the serpentine belt didn't have to come off.

Rob

 

That's correct, it doesn't.

 

I have also removed the shims on many different vehicles. Loosen the center bolt, slide off the clutch with bolt still in, remove the thinnest washer which is usually about .030 to .040 of an inch and reassemble. It will now work properly.

 

Rusty you can't win.
But at least it looks like it sounding line a shim might fix you up.

 

Yea, I got a lot of trouble-free miles but the old gal is demanding some attention now. I’m not gonna put her out to pasture yet though. Thanks for the document above, I was wondering about the puller. The shims are worth a shot, maybe I can try that tonight, but it’s been messing up for weeks and I’ve continued to run it so it may be toast. It’s pretty tight quarters down there, it might be hard to make room for the puller if it does need a clutch.

 

All you need is to hold the clutch while you turn the nut.
A flat bat should do the trick.

 

I got that for the shim adjustment, I was referring to the clutch replacement. Sorry, I wasn’t clear.

 

I think for the one I have as an extra I just used simple pulling tools.

 

i measured my gap and came up with .053in, looks like that’s the issue. After climbing around on the truck a little, I decided to try this from the top. Just wasn’t gonna happen, no room to swing a ratchet. For sure Jack, that stator is right in the way. After climbing underneath it looked like maybe drop the trans filter bracket To get some working room. My filter has short flex lines on the in and out lines so I figured I could push it out of the way a bit without disconnecting it. Man that thing is bolted up crazy! That wasn’t happening so I got up all my 1/4 drive stuff and an 8mm socket that’s has been shortened, finally got on it with my best fine tooth ratchet and a swivel and wobbly extensions, finally found the secret combo that was just enough angle to turn the bolt, yea!





finally wiggled the front part off the splines, and found this. Are there supposed to be grooves on this piece? I’ve never inspected one before. Looks pretty rough to me.






it only had one shim/spacer in it. Measured it at .034in, so...53 gap minus 34 spacer leaves .019 gap if I leave it out, so I did.




I put it all back together with a little blue lock tire on the bolt (it looked like it had some on it already) and went for a spin around the block. Looks like it’s working well so far but I’m thinking it Specked out with no spacers because it’s wore out. Anyway, thanks once again, I wish I could smoke you guys some ribs or buy ya a beer or something. I hope postin up pictures is a little payback but it ain’t near enough!