I bought my Ford F-250 (year 2000) 7.3 about 2 months ago and did maintenance work on it. The fuel filter was changed, and it was fine the first day, it works as usual, without problems. The second day, it started to idle abruptly and when I go to put gas, it does not respond at first, after a second or two it accelerates excessively. Switch back to the old one to see if it was the fuel filter that I did the same. But after 20 minutes of being on, it returns to normal. Any idea what it could be ???

 

Is it just for a short period of time after you replace the filter that this happens?

The fuel system is dead-headed so you have to refill the system after you drain the bowl and replace the filter. Most of us cycle the key 2-3 times to fill the system back up before running the truck.

The fuel pump is inside the frame under the cab (under the driver). When you turn your key on you can hear the pump running to bring up fuel pressure before you start the truck. You can hear it stop when fuel pressure reaches target pressure. When the pump stops turn the key to OFF and back to ON. You will hear the pump run again to bring fuel pressure up. When the pump stops turn the key OFF and back to ON. Now when the WTS light goes out start the truck.

You shouldn't have the hesitation issue after doing that.

 

When you get some air in your fuel lines the truck can run a rough/wonky 20-50 miles until the air is purged out.

Did you clean out the crud from the bottom of the bowl? Unplug the fuel bowl heater connection that is at the back of the bowl. you do not need it and it the 'heater wire' in the bowl should short out the truck will 'die' and not start and you will search for a long time to fine that fuse #30 is most likely blown and the heater wire is broken.

 

Another place to clean is the fuel pedal sensor. Get a can of contact cleaner and spritz the heck out of it. Might just be dirty contacts preventing the PCM from knowing your fueling intentions.

 

I have tried but it continues to do the problem.

 

I didn't touch anything that wasn't the fuel filter and empty de bowl with small cup. Didn't use the lever, was afraid it could brake since 20 year truck . (And found some rust little pieces)

 

Not an expert like some of these people on here but there is a spring mechanism in the fuel bowl that could possibly be your problem. Maybe someone will chime in about the possibilities. We removed ours!

Good luck!

 

O.E.M. or Aftermarket Filter / Cap?

 

There are also slots in the bowl standpipe that MUST line up or fuel flow to the heads will be dramatically reduced.

 

Great question right there.

 

Tell me more. I have never lined anything up. I unscrew the OEM cap, fish the filter out, place a new one in....curse a little about the beveled o-ring, screw the cap on.....go for a drive.

 

This self induced issue does not happen often, but it does happen from time to time. The last time it happened it was an FTE'r in the north, but I couldn't find the thread. I want to say it was Baatzy, but don't know for sure... He had a normal idle, but every time he got on the throttle the truck would stall or close to it. After many hours of troubleshooting, he found that the holes were not lined up enough and once he corrected that, all was well.

This image was taken directly from Diesel-O-Rings Instructions Sheets and Information page.



In the image above, you can see the multiple pieces to the stand pipe.

In the image below you can see the outer most stand pipe piece, which is the far left in the image above. I have highlighted one of the two holes in the outer most piece.



In the image below you can see the inner most stand pipe piece, which is the top right in the image above. This inner stand pipe piece fits inside the outer stand pipe piece and can become misaligned. Again, this is rare, but it does happen. If misaligned, fuel flow may be restricted.



I don't have any first hand experience with this issue because I removed the guts of the stand pipe when I rebuilt my fuel bowl a few years ago. I have seen it happen on here at least once that I can recall.

 

I got sold a Purolator

 

If you do not need to disturb the stand pipe to replace a shorted fuel heater element, for example, doin' just a simple fuel filter swap, should be no problem.

If you messed with the fuel stand pipe, well maybe ya got a problem.

 

What @pirschwagon is getting at ( I think), is that some aftermarket fuel filters come with a new cap as part of the filter. And on the bottom of the cap there is a molded pin (protrusion) that opens the center of the standpipe by pushing it open as the cap is tightened down. On some aftermarket caps that pin isn't of the length to properly open the standpipe.