So I’ve been looking at F350 post 2011 with 6.2L because I heard that MPG was better than triton motor.

however, price difference is huge and I’m now considering the pre 2011...

what are the difference in MPG between 6.2, 5.4, and 6.8? Thanks

 

I had a 99 5.4 and it got ~12-13 MPG average but it sucked bad for towing so i re-geared it to 4.56 gears and it got 10-11 about no matter what.
My wife had a 3V 5.4 F150 and if i remember correctly got around 13.5 MPG per the Lie-o-meter.
Never had a V10, but my dad-inlaw has a 2005 and claims 10-11 average.
I just bought a 2013 6.2 and in 2 weeks of ownership its averaging 13.2 per the dash.

From my experience and research i decided i wanted the 6.2 post 2011 truck. I had a 2015 6.7 so going to a gasser was going to be a big change in power, but i wanted the simplicity, lower maintenance and repair cost. The research i did on the 3V engine issues scared me off from those, but at least they had the 5R110 trans. there was no way i was going back to a 5.4 2V with the 4R100; it was just too much of a dog. I considered the 2V V10, but at that age i could get into a 7.3 diesel and avoid all the modern emission issues.

To sum it up i think that the post 6.2 6R140 combo was the best choice for me. Good drive-ability with some towing capability. and they are still new enough to avoid a lot of old truck issues. I paid $12,750 for my 2013. I looked at a 2004 V10 that was really clean and they still wanted $9,000. definitely worth the extra money to me.

 

Going from 2000 V10 to a 2013 6.2 equipped the same way the 6.2 town mileage is better, towing about the same and empty highway just a little better but the 6 speed transmission is worth the extra money.

Denny

 

my 16 will get about 10 around town. highway i will get as high as 15, hand calculated. towing my 9500 gvw camper i average about 8.1. i live in pa so its not flat but its not the rockies. my truck has the 3.73s for now.

 

I’m planning on putting a camper so I guess the gas mileage isn’t going to change much.... yeah I had 2013 with 116k lined up for $16k but old man sold it. When you contact a guy at 10pm and agree to be there next morning to buy and wake up to a message that he sold it last night, you can understand I was ticked to say the least.

I can find pre 2011, less than 100k for under $10k. I do want the new tranny but it’s gonna be my weekend camper vehicle so maybe I shouldn’t be so picky. I do dream about the new 7.3 with 10 speed and aluminum bed though.

 

The 5 speed that came out in 2005 is just as good as the newer 6 speed...or very close to it. Light years ahead of the 4R100 in 2004 and prior.

 

Wasn’t a huge amount of difference in mpg between my 2006 5.4l and my 2011 6.2l.

The 2011 6.2l has about 100 more hp though, and a six gear transmission.

if you can swing it, I’d go for the 6.2l

 

Thanks guys! I thought 6.2 with 6 speed was the way to go for my budget but extra money to build a shop, buy a camper and snowmobile is tempting.

I read on other post but if I wanted a limited slip differential, then it’s easiest to look for Fx4 right? Otherwise check VIN with the dealership every time to check if it has that option? If I go with cheaper and older truck, I could get the aftermarket limited slip differential that people are saying better than Ford one.
I want it to drive like an AWD I had on my old SUV since my main use is to go snowboarding.

 

I had my Ford LSD differential removed because I don’t trust them on roads where I may encounter ice. I put in ARB selectable locker but always have it open when on roads with any snow.

 

my 16 has an e locker and no FX4. they were available starting in 11

 

big difference between limited slip and awd. The truck won’t drive like an awd system. Just use 4wd when needed. As mentioned above, it probably has the rear e-locker (pull the 4wd **** out)

 

i just bought a 2013 F250 FX4. how do i know if it is LSD or E-locker?

 

But if I’m driving up a snowy and icy mountain roads, I don’t know when I need power to which wheels... I thought that is what LSD does essentially. All 4 wheels turning at different speed all the time for LSD 4x4 and mostly FWD until it slips, then more power goes to ones with grip for AWD. Am I wrong? And e-locker or manual locker means all 4 gets equal power for equally spinning tires for going straight and not for twisty mountain roads?

other posts indicate that you can look at door plate for axle code or someone suggested to lift it up and spin a wheel and see which way the opposing wheel spin.

Im thinking of not waste my time looking for LSD or Fx4 and just get the ARB or Detroit TrueTrac.. If I do, can the factory switch on the dash controls it or am I looking at getting an aftermarket switch/selector installed?

 

The e-locker is engaged by pulling the 4x4knob straight out; think it has a symbol on the ****. Manual explains it too.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ited-slip.html

 

well i'll be... my **** pulls out. Last truck had an open diff and a manual transfer case. thanks,