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After adding a zerk to the slip-joint on my driveshaft I now have vibrations. So I've decided to replace the u-joints and then have it balanced. I'm looking for recommendations for u-joints for my 03 4x4 crew. Part numbers and/or sizes would also be useful. I've looked at the Dana and SKF websites and they are pretty terrible for application info, at least in the places I looked at. Plus they have so many different product lines...
Chris, if you are going to have it balanced, I'd take it to them and tell them you want Dana u-joints. Otherwise, you can get into a p*ssing contest over a bend ear and balancing.
After making some calls and finding out about lead times, I was thinking I would bring the driveshaft and the joints to them. That way I don't have to wait longer while they get the parts. Trying to minimize downtime.
I do driveshafts for a living , we use Spicer lifetime none greaseable joints , joints should have a smooth operation and no notching to them if they do you or they missed a burr on the weld yoke or companion flange most likely you lost a weight or put the companion flange on in a different position
The drill passages can be fracture points.
Then you get one passage that the grease gets hard and when you grease
it your only doing 3 of the 4. Then there is the person that used the wrong
greases. One type one time then the other type the next time. Nothing like
chemistry going on in places that you can't see into.
I am in the non-greaseable camp. Just run then until they start to get tired and replace them.
You guys talked me into non-greasables. I went with the Spicer Life Series (SPL). Got a good price at Advanced Auto with a 25% discount code: $82.79 shipped.
For future reference my 03 Lariat 4x4 crew short bed requires (3) 1410s for the rear shaft assembly.
Part number for the non-greasable SPL is 5-1410X.
Bearing cap outside diameter: 1.118"
Overall axis width: 4.187"
Part number for the Spicer strap kit for use with the above u-joint is 3-70-28X
so your shaft has a h block in the middle of that block is a CV button if the stud has any wear marks on it the CV portion is bad , its cheaper to have a new shaft made than to pay for machining and welding a new unit on , if the stud is good in the bottom portion the is a ball with tiny bearings in it , if 1 drops out of the cage the unit will not go back together and it will not swivel smoothly, its almost better to have a shop do it .
I'm not sure if that is the same but it looks similar to the front drive shaft yoke on my truck. I did indeed damage that when trying to replace the u-joints on it. I had to buy a new yoke and took it to a driveline shop for installation. Should have done that from the start. Lesson learned.
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