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What kind of oil should I use for my Detroit Truetrac? Can I use synthetic? Do I need friction additive/modifier?
A quality, petroleum-mineral based, GL5 rated 80w-90 gear oil should be used.
Synthetic oils are not recommended for Truetrac applications. While some customers have found that synthetic oils works well in this application, Eaton has not confirmed under test conditions that all synthetic oils are compatible with Detroit Truetrac applications.
Friction modifiers should not be used because they will decrease performance (reduce differential bias).
The ears go towards the bearings. If they go the other way they will cause a leak by ripping the seals.
Don't forget to grease pack the hub bearings and to fill the hub with oil.
I don't think I have your year rear axle PDF handy but I will post what I can find.
Well looks like I only have the 2006 stuff and this is it. Some may be the same.
I know many do grease up the bearings and the manual says to.
Mostly we never used grease; we pre-oiled the bearings. But when using grease in a hub with a reservoir for oil, it was a very light coating, roller, and race.
The inner bearing was typically pre-lubed when setting it in the hub, then squirting oil over the rollers, finally installing the seal. Before the outer bearing went in, got the hub to sit centric to the axle stub and filled the hub cavity with the correct oil. Dipped the outer bearing in a tray of oil, installed the outer bearing, and before installing the drive axle, spun the hub to make sure the bearings were splash lubed. We finished up installing the axle.
The grease will wash out over time. It's there to act as assembly lube.
I think the workshop manual went over so they don't have any dry start
issues with the hub. After all with the price of that bearing set I would not
want to have to do it twice.
With the vehicles, we flipped brake rotors every week after 500 miles, or two weeks at 2,000 miles. Greasing the bearings every time adds up to a lot of grease in oil. Oil flows back and forth in these tubes during turns, slopes, whatever. We start off the lift at full GVW, 13k, 13k, 20k, 25k ....... and run that way for 90% of the work.
We never burned a bearing in 25 years, and before me. I get the concern of running dry and it’s a valid concern, it depends how fastidious you are, and it would be fine if you only do this occasionally. I should have not commented in the first place but Chris didn’t sound like he was enthusiastic about having to do the grease.
I wasn't enthusiastic as it was just another thing to take care of when I'm trying to flip this rebuild in a couple of days. While I was out running related errands, I got a tube of Ford long life grease XG-1-C at the dealership for $10. Bearings are packed, hubs are assembled and ready to go on. Considering the dark grey color, and the above conversation, it makes sense that Ford diff oil always comes out grey.
Anyway, so much for that two day rebuild. I had two shots at getting the pinion torque right and overshot both times, all while freezing my buns off. Back to the dealer tomorrow for another crush sleeve.....or two. Maybe I should take a break in the middle the torque session to warm up so I'll be more patient.
ook me two more tries to get rotational torque on the pinion correct. (right in the middle of the range at 22 in-lb) Glad I was smart enough to get two crush sleeves when I went to the dealer.
Backlash is right in the middle of the range at 0.010".
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