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I changed the fluid 75k miles ago. Used Lucas 75W-140 synthetic. My records show I bought 4 quarts, and I still have half a quart left, but I didn't even get three quarts out and I don't have any leaky seals.
It wasn't silvery but it does seem thinner than it should be. Not sure what water intrusion looks like, but it looks normal to me.
My concern about the gears is with the pinion. The flat tops of the teeth get narrower towards the smaller diameter end. I don't know if that's normal with the Ford 10.5 or not. I'll get a pic up later.
Also does anyone know the sizes of the rear wheel hub bearings?
My concern about the gears is with the pinion. The flat tops of the teeth get narrower towards the smaller diameter end. I don't know if that's normal with the Ford 10.5 or not. I'll get a pic up later.
Also does anyone know the sizes of the rear wheel hub bearings?
They have a taper to them. Or at least that is what my local bearing shop said.
They could not get them at a decent cost. I went with NAPA and used the commercial
account I have access to and they were under $100.
Originally Posted by Fuzzpuss
I changed the fluid 75k miles ago. Used Lucas 75W-140 synthetic. My records show I bought 4 quarts, and I still have half a quart left, but I didn't even get three quarts out and I don't have any leaky seals.
It wasn't silvery but it does seem thinner than it should be. Not sure what water intrusion looks like, but it looks normal to me.
You get a milky looking paste goo. I can't tell if that oil is brown or red. But the goo will take color from the fluid and look like white grease with the
oil color added to it.
I have a not so good pinion here I can take a photo of you want.
They have a taper to them. Or at least that is what my local bearing shop said.
They could not get them at a decent cost. I went with NAPA and used the commercial
account I have access to and they were under $100.
Are you talking about the bearings or the teeth on the pinion?
Originally Posted by Yahiko
You get a milky looking paste goo. I can't tell if that oil is brown or red. But the goo will take color from the fluid and look like white grease with the
oil color added to it.
No milky paste goo. It's all a consistent caramel brown. Must be the reflection from the lights you're seeing.
That's interesting to say the least.....
Personally, if the R & P are good then there's not a thing wrong with reusing them. You'll love the Tru Trac. Good manners and virtually maintenance free. Just be sure to use the recommended weight of gear oil for the TT.
I'm looking forward to it. I put one in my Lightning and it was the bomb. What is the recommended gear oil weight?
Are you talking about the bearings or the teeth on the pinion?
The outer axle hub bearings I got from NAPA.
Sense that axle was full of nice glittering oil I have not bothered with bearings. The axle I got
to replace it got new bearings out in the hubs. That is how I knew the price.
Also if you look at the gear faces they are a bit on the dull side from the oil glitter cutting them a bit.
You can pick up a master kit that has all but the outer hub bearings. The big name place I checked
with wanter over $200 a side plus the seals for the hubs. I think the inner set was almost $500.
Oh it was Randy's Ring and Pinion I got the pricing from. It was about $900 for the full set of bearings.
Getting the hub bearings and seals from NAPA on the commercial account saved me about 1/2 the guy on the street price.
Sense that axle was full of nice glittering oil I have not bothered with bearings. The axle I got
to replace it got new bearings out in the hubs. That is how I knew the price.
Also if you look at the gear faces they are a bit on the dull side from the oil glitter cutting them a bit.
You can pick up a master kit that has all but the outer hub bearings. The big name place I checked
with wanter over $200 a side plus the seals for the hubs. I think the inner set was almost $500.
Oh it was Randy's Ring and Pinion I got the pricing from. It was about $900 for the full set of bearings.
Getting the hub bearings and seals from NAPA on the commercial account saved me about 1/2 the guy on the street price.
I got the Yukon master kit from Summit for $305. They also have a Yukon differential rebuild kit without the ring bolts for $475-ish, go figure. The only rear hub bearings they offer are the Yukon kits for $205/side but they weren't in stock in the local branch anyway. Oreilly has a bunch of National brand bearings but their descriptions are so lacking in information that I really need to pull the hubs and measure. Napa has SKF bearings/seals for $133.60/side. Must be nice to have a corporate account discount.
*Pinion races are out and the pumpkin and axle tubes are clean. Dryer vent cleaning brush was awesome for the axle tubes. Is it normal to have rust on the bottom of the axle tubes? Mostly drivers side?
*I have a plan and fixtures for pressing the pinion races in place. No provisions for pulling/replacing the rear pinion bearing yet.
*Hubs are clean and have new races. Are the slingers supposed to go in with the ears towards the bearing or the seals? I've never seen seals like these. Looks like they have a stationary part and a rotating part?
*Gonna have to replace the pinion flange due to wear on the seal surface. White Bear Lake says its discontinued. I'll check the local dealer in the morning. Otherwise Randy's Ring and Pinion has a warehouse in Arlington and has a Yukon version in stock. As if having a local Summit store wasn't enough! I guess I need to get out more often
.
*I ended up going with the SKF hub bearings from Napa for almost $300. I called a couple of local bearing suppliers and neither had everything in stock and their prices weren't any better than Napa.
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