Just bought a 2000 with the 6.8/manual. Mod motors and super duties are new things to me.

On the way home, I noticed what sounds like pinging/spark knock. It starts at 2000rpm like a switch in 4th or 5th gear under any load. Lugging 1500 rpm, no problem. 1900 no problem, any throttle position. 2000 PING. Light throttle to heavy throttle no difference. 87 in the tank.

I am going to try some octane booster and some 93 to see if that helps.

Does it sound like I bought a truck with a 93 tune loaded? Any way to tell if there is a tuner installed (PO doesn’t know)? Any way to get my stock tune back if this is indeed the case?

I don’t want to buy a tuner to get me stock tube back. I see some reman ECM’s out there I guess I could swap unless you all have a better idea.

I am used to a 2.3 Ranger and a 5.0 lopo Country Squire so I am sure this V10 will suite me fine without a tuner.

 

Definitely try 93 octane and see if it changes. If it does, we'll work on that later.

What worries me is, does this sound like a bad catalytic converter?

Also, the exhaust shields and especially the bellhousing cover is known to rattle in that 1800-240RPM range, and only at certain loads. You don't have to go this nuts, but listen to the audio if you can. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ver-today.html

 

Headed out to get some 93 in a little bit.

I did find a loose heat shield on that terrible looking y-shaped exhaust. The lower side is loose. Who designed that exhaust?

I’ll definitely check out the bell housing cover. I am assuming if I removed it temporarily and that noise stopped, I’d know it was my problem.

As far as the cat. It’s there, stock and unmodified. Are these known to have problems with the converter? I tapped on it but didn’t heard anything rattling around.

 

These early V10s in the 2000-2001 era seem to be prone to melting the cat. Some searches would give you a reasonable idea.

Heat shields, rip 'em off.

Removing the bell housing cover could generate a noise that will be HORRIBLE

The separator plate between the engine and the transmission will buzz like crazy. Right at that 1800-2400RPM range when under a load. It can't hurt to check it out though.

 

Do you have the bottom Y pipe if so that can be where the noise is coming from. I had 2 2000 V10s one was a early production and one was very late almost a 2001. I had a simular noise in my late production 2000 and after complaining to Ford they came up with a fix and it was the top Y pipe and with a different intermediate pipe and a upgraded tune. The truck never made that noise after that, the early 2001 trucks also had the same noise so the Y pipe change came latter on in the year. I can't swear to it but the problem started after they changed to PI heads (Preformace improved). My early V10 didn't have them but the late producion did. They called it a resonant sound in the Y pipe.

My late production V10 with PI heads was also have pre ignition or ping if it didn't like the fuel I was feeding it.

Denny

 

I have that bottom y-pipe. The top one looks like it would be much better performance wise. This is a 12/99 truck.

I drove it today and monitored the timing with my code scanner (as safely as I could while driving). Timing looked reasonable and no big changes when the noise starts. So I don’t think I am dealing with an aggressive tune.

Definitely has some rattle noise at idle with the clutch out. Maybe the same noise I am hearing at 2000ish. Too late to investigate tonight.

I partially washed the engine bay today with my pressure washer. Stayed away from the engine mostly but it did get wet some. Now I have an intermittent miss which I guess is probably related. Coils all seem original, tried to see the plugs down in the hole but can’t see anything other than they are shiny. I really hate to pull a plug to check it but would like to know if they are good shape.

And the cat... it might be dead. The exhaust smelled like death after a good highway run. Doesn’t seemed stopped up in terms of power.

 

One time when I washed one of my V10s water found it's way into one of the plug holes past a boot causing a misfire.

Denny

 

You nailed it. My #7 coil bolt is broken off in the intake so the coil and boot were just kind of sitting there. Cleaned the water out and used a small block of wood to temporarily hold the coil and fixed that miss.

It still has a little skip every so often. Tried to listen to the idle while pulling different injector plugs to narrow it down to a cylinder but was not very successful. A V10 has more exhaust pulses than I am used to.

Side story: I saw antiseize on that #7 coil, along with the broken bolt. I knew someone had been in there before and had used antiseize. So I go brave and pulled the plug to see what condition they were in. They looked fine. Autolite Platinum. I put it back after cleaning the threads and reapplying antiseize. I tightened to 15ft lb. I think I put the wrong kind on there, it wasn’t nickel. I will fix that when I get some. I can sleep better knowing my plugs are okay for a while.

 

Ideally you'll use nickel-based anti-seize mostly because its better able to long-term handle the plug thread heat cycles, the aluminum-based anti-seize I have no experience with on plug threads but I'm sure it won't cause issues. Torque-wise I take mine up to 25 ft/lbs with the nickel anti-seize.

Here's a video showing how to deal with Ford intake manifolds where the COP bolt thread insert has come loose:

 

Finally isolated the sound that started this thread. It’s the shifter. A slight pressure left, right, up, or down eliminates the noise. I am not very concerned with it.

No problems with the V10, so I think we can wrap this thread up. Thanks for everyone’s input.

 

Thank YOU for reporting back!

JWA, now you have me (again) wondering what I've been using all these years. I suspect it's the aluminum one. I have a few bottles, at least one is 30 years old - LOL.

Never had a problem with what I suspect was the aluminum version, in the modulars. TBH, I think it has more to do with the lubrication of the threads than the actual "grit" inbetween.

 

Well I don't honestly think the formulation of the anti-seize is all that important--as long as one of those coats the plug threads it should be good. I've always used nickel-based because just after joining FTE that was recommended due its supposed higher heat rating. I've never had a problem with any spark plug I've installed loosening in between plug changes but I do torque mine to about 25 ft/lbs which seems to be the sweet spot for Modular Motor spark plugs. Sure beats the 7-13 ft/lbs Ford's WSM recommends!

 

To the OP: I'd highly recommend you get back in there and tighten that plug to 25-ish ft-lb. 15 is not enough to prevent a blow out IMO. Checking all the plugs torque is probably good advice while you're at it.

 

will do. Thanks!