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Bad Battery?

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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 12:35 PM
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Bad Battery?

1995 F-150 Flareside with the 4.9L. Been working through a starting issues over the past couple of days. Found that my battery was running down over night.

Yesterday it turned over slowly, but still started. I checked the voltage at the battery with the engine running and it measured 14.3V, so seems to be charging OK. I turned on all the accessories I could and it only dropped to ~ 14.25V.

Battery was dead again this morning, so I pulled it and put on the charger. Charger showed it was fully charged after a couple hours. I took a voltage reading ~ 11:20 am.



Here is the second reading 2 hours later.



Is this battery toast? It's roughly 2.5 years old. I took it to Pep Boys where I purchased it earlier this week and they put it on their tester. They said it was showing ~ 900 CCA (it's rated at 750 CCA if I remember correctly). So they said it was good to go and handed it back to me.

Just wondering what to do at this point. I think it is still covered under at least a partial warranty. Thanks in advance.



 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 01:01 PM
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From: Orygun
Was it hooked up to the truck from when it was charged at 12.60 and then dropped to 11.90?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 01:11 PM
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Was it hooked up to the truck from when it was charged at 12.60 and then dropped to 11.90?
I almost did that, but then thought I would pull it out in case there was a draw on it from the truck. So it was on the bench during charging and when I took the readings.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 01:28 PM
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Willing to bet Pepboys didn't select AGM on the battery tester. An AGM battery is charged at capacity at 12.85v not 12.6v like a flooded battery. The battery needs to be tested again, its most likely a failed battery.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 01:40 PM
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Willing to bet Pepboys didn't select AGM on the battery tester. An AGM battery is charged at capacity at 12.85v not 12.6v like a flooded battery. The battery needs to be tested again, its most likely a failed battery.
Appreciate that, should I take it in as is? Last time I took it to them, I think it was closer to a full charge.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 02:21 PM
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Check for excessive current draw when the truck is supposed to be off. The battery may be fine, it's the truck that is drawing it down overnight.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 02:31 PM
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Check for excessive current draw when the truck is supposed to be off. The battery may be fine, it's the truck that is drawing it down overnight.
Yeah, I think I will do that also.

Does it strike you as odd that it would drop nearly a volt in a couple hours on the bench? Or could that just be a result of parasitic draw beating this battery down?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 02:58 PM
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From: Orygun
Your battery is no good if it settles to under 12 volts just by sitting for a few hours.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 04:19 PM
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Normally I would agree the battery may be weak, but only two hours on a charge after being discharged enough to not start the engine may contribute focusing on it as the root cause. I have been down this path before on my first 1993 F150 Lightning.

Just like you, I started having the overnight dead battery symptom. I took the battery in and they found it was failing so I purchased a new one. There was no warranty. I installed it and everything was good for a few days then the symptom started again. Ended up being a chafed wire for the power lumbar seat. It took awhile to track it down. After repairing the wire and re-routing it so it would not happen again I found there was a TSB from Ford on this very issue.

If you have any aftermarket amps, radios, etc. they are common causes of excessive parasitic drain. Use a clamp on current probe if you have one or install your meter set to amps inline between the negative battery terminal and the the negative cable. I believe the current draw should be less than 50 mA. Whatever you do...do not try to start the engine, you will blow the internal fuse on your meter.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2020 | 06:16 PM
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A bad diode in your alternator will draw the battery down to zero overnight.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2020 | 08:24 PM
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Took the battery back to Pep Boys this morning. They put it on there charger and were able to see how quickly the voltage dropped following a full charge and gave me a replacement.

If you have any aftermarket amps, radios, etc. they are common causes of excessive parasitic drain. Use a clamp on current probe if you have one or install your meter set to amps inline between the negative battery terminal and the the negative cable. I believe the current draw should be less than 50 mA. Whatever you do...do not try to start the engine, you will blow the internal fuse on your meter.
I made sure there was nothing on and tried this test. My multimeter showed 0.07 on the 10A scale. I might try and see if I can get it lower, but that doesn't seem too bad.




 
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