Dash Issues
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2020
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Dash Issues
My fuel gauge will not read correct. I have replaced the sending unit already and that did not fix it. Grounded out wires to check if gauge works and it checks out correct.
I tested the ohm range of the sender and it checked to be the correct range. I have added a new ground at the sender. (Where are the grounds behind the dash I cannot find it)
I wouldn’t think that it’s the ICVR but it may be a bad connection on one prong (temp gauge reads around 170 once warmed up is this correct?)
tommorrow I am going to replace the wires however I do not think that will resolve the issue because it sometimes reads correct, but then will return to empty.
any pointers? I’ll try anything
I tested the ohm range of the sender and it checked to be the correct range. I have added a new ground at the sender. (Where are the grounds behind the dash I cannot find it)
I wouldn’t think that it’s the ICVR but it may be a bad connection on one prong (temp gauge reads around 170 once warmed up is this correct?)
tommorrow I am going to replace the wires however I do not think that will resolve the issue because it sometimes reads correct, but then will return to empty.
any pointers? I’ll try anything
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Welcome to FTE
What's the gauge doing? Reading high, reading low, doing nothing, or doing the Hula? If the sender float is fuel logged (pinholes) it will sink, though flop around on the road and cause wild gauge swings.
The ICVR will affect both the fuel and temp gauges, if defective. The temp gauge was apparently never known for being particularly accurate. I think there is actually some calibration or adjustment range on the temp gauge itself, if one is very careful. Maybe swear off coffee for a day or two, it is a fragile mechanism.
The fuel sender float arm height can be adjusted via set-screw on the aftermarket units to calibrate the gauge indication.
What's the gauge doing? Reading high, reading low, doing nothing, or doing the Hula? If the sender float is fuel logged (pinholes) it will sink, though flop around on the road and cause wild gauge swings.
The ICVR will affect both the fuel and temp gauges, if defective. The temp gauge was apparently never known for being particularly accurate. I think there is actually some calibration or adjustment range on the temp gauge itself, if one is very careful. Maybe swear off coffee for a day or two, it is a fragile mechanism.
The fuel sender float arm height can be adjusted via set-screw on the aftermarket units to calibrate the gauge indication.
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More Turbo
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So when I plugged the sender in it would read correct, then after driving it goes down to empty. Occasionally it will pop back up to the correct reading but shortly, as in 30 seconds, it goes back to reading empty.
I also did test the float in a bowl of gasoline for an hour and it never had any inside it.
I would think it’s a bad ground but I don’t know where the grounds are, or it may be one prong in the ICVR that has rusted out, it is the original unit - just some recent thoughts
I also did test the float in a bowl of gasoline for an hour and it never had any inside it.
I would think it’s a bad ground but I don’t know where the grounds are, or it may be one prong in the ICVR that has rusted out, it is the original unit - just some recent thoughts
See A Man About A Horse
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,899
Likes: 656
From: Mariposa, Ca.
I replaced my trucks’ sending unit when I first got it, with an aftermarket ( Chinese ) one from a formerly reputable supplier(DC). It failed. Bought an NOS Ford one, at quite a premium in cost, and all is well now. I even bought another for my parts stash, so should be good for the rest of my life.
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More Turbo
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Used A replacement twice and I know it’s not the unit itself because it will read the correct resistances and occasionally read correct. If I bang on the tank for a minute straight it will go back but once driving it will go back down.
I know it’s got to be a bad connection somewhere but I have no clue where
I know it’s got to be a bad connection somewhere but I have no clue where
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
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From: Tri Cities, TN
So when I plugged the sender in it would read correct, then after driving it goes down to empty. Occasionally it will pop back up to the correct reading but shortly, as in 30 seconds, it goes back to reading empty.
I also did test the float in a bowl of gasoline for an hour and it never had any inside it.
I would think it’s a bad ground but I don’t know where the grounds are, or it may be one prong in the ICVR that has rusted out, it is the original unit - just some recent thoughts
I also did test the float in a bowl of gasoline for an hour and it never had any inside it.
I would think it’s a bad ground but I don’t know where the grounds are, or it may be one prong in the ICVR that has rusted out, it is the original unit - just some recent thoughts
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More Turbo
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Tested float in boiling water and it checked out fine.
I also replaced the orange cable to sender with a new one and made a new ground directly to cab floor.
I also made a dedicated ground from dash to firewall. I’ve yet to replace the ground from engine to firewall but that’s the goal for tomorrow.
I noticed tonight that after changing the wires the needle stayed correct for the majority of the two mile trip, but on the second mile it went to zero, however in the last 1/2 mile it was back up to the correct reading. Seems like a ground issue still. What other grounds should I check?
I also replaced the orange cable to sender with a new one and made a new ground directly to cab floor.
I also made a dedicated ground from dash to firewall. I’ve yet to replace the ground from engine to firewall but that’s the goal for tomorrow.
I noticed tonight that after changing the wires the needle stayed correct for the majority of the two mile trip, but on the second mile it went to zero, however in the last 1/2 mile it was back up to the correct reading. Seems like a ground issue still. What other grounds should I check?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 191
Likes: 31
From: Seattle
Try using the 5V feed (black/green tracer) that seems to work ok on the temp guage - see if it makes any difference. I think all the 5v Feeds to the guages are all piggybacked to each other.
Is your speedo. the round style or sweep style/custom cab?
Is your speedo. the round style or sweep style/custom cab?
Last edited by third66go; Jun 20, 2020 at 10:53 PM. Reason: typo
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,463
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From: Tri Cities, TN
There are only 2 ground points for the fuel gauge. One from the ICVR attaching screw to the brace for the steering column and one from a sender bolt to the brace behind the tank. If you have crimped on terminals instead of soldered check them all to make sure one hasn't been crimped on the insulation instead of the wire.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,463
Likes: 954
From: Tri Cities, TN
Gauge testing
Grounding one of these gauges at the sender tells you noting except the needle will move and is not the way to do it. These gauges are so sensitive to voltage that the tiny amount of voltage from an analog ohm meter will move the needle.
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